Where the Buffalo Roam: A Visit to Italy’s Premier Mozzarella Dairy

There’s Mozart playing in the barn where 200 female buffalo get massages, shower, relax, and munch on a blend of organic corn, peas, and barley, all grown on Tenuta Vannulo’s farm about an hour and a half south of Naples. There are piles of alfalfa, also grown here, for additional snacking. The animals eat, drink, and sleep when they like. There are no humans in the barn, other than visitors like us and the crew who clean up after the bovine residents.

We booked a tour of the dairy farm after learning about their remarkable buffalo mozzarella from one of my favorite cookbook authors and Italy experts. After a brief introduction to the family-owned company’s history, we headed to the barn with our guide, Stefania. It was time to meet the buffalo responsible for Tenuta Vannulo’s delectable cheese and other dairy products.

Hello Buffalo

It was fascinating to watch the buffalo, which weigh an average of over 1,700 pounds, saunter over to use the massage rollers (there are four in the barn) and stand in the showers. They also line up to use the automatic milking machines when they feel the need. We watched four of the ladies wait patiently while those ahead of them entered the milking machines. These buffalo follow their instincts and clearly do not need human direction. Mothers teach their calves how to behave, and the animals all seemed to get along beautifully with little human intervention.

The buffalo were very friendly. They came right up to us, made eye contact, and poked their heads through the railing as if asking to be petted. I obliged. Their fur felt coarse, and their large horns were warm to the touch.

We learned that the buffalo are quite territorial and have their favorite sleeping areas in the barn, which the others respect. Stefania pointed out that at Tenuta Vannulo, they believe happy animals produce the best milk, so they strive to keep their ruminants content. One taste of Tenuta Vannulo’s handmade buffalo mozzarella attests to that.

Let’s Make Cheese

Early each morning, the dairy’s four cheese makers get to work making mozzarella from the buffalo milk. There is a staff of 70 at the dairy, but only those few who have graduated from an intensive apprenticeship program are entrusted with cheesemaking.  They pull and cut the mozzarella by hand, forming it into perfect braids and balls, including the small ciliegini, or little cherries in Italian. 

Visitors are not allowed inside the kitchen due to hygiene regulations, but you can watch the cheesemakers at work through a large glass window.

This region of Italy’s Cilento Coast is known for producing excellent buffalo mozzarella. Still, Tenuto Vannulo’s is especially prized for its freshness, taste, and texture, and there is only one way to get it. You must pre-order your mozzarella online, no more than 5 kilograms per order (approximately 11 pounds), and pick it up at the farm at the appointed hour.

Let’s Eat Cheese

We tasted buffalo mozzarella that had been made less than an hour before our arrival, and it was deliciously unlike any I’ve had before or since.  The mozzarella had a snap when I bit into it, but a creamy mouthfeel. There was a pleasant hint of salinity that left me wanting more. Stefania told us that ideally, the cheese should be consumed the day it is made. It can be frozen and used for cooking, but otherwise should only be eaten fresh for the best flavor and texture. She showed us how to listen for a “squeak” in the cheese that ensures its freshness.

In addition to its mozzarella, Tenuta Vannulo makes a scrumptious ricotta that you can pick up without pre-ordering. Buffalo milk, which is richer in vitamins and fat and thus creamier than cow milk, is also used to make pudding and yogurt sold in the Yogurteria on the property. They’re both available in many flavors and can be purchased to take away or enjoyed here.

Enjoy Cake and a Cappuccino

Unsurprisingly, the casual and comfortable Yogurteria was very busy on the drizzly Saturday morning we visited. The air was redolent with the aroma of fresh-baked bread, and the cases were filled with delectable cakes and tarts. Our cappuccinos were made with delicious buffalo milk, as was the creamy custard served with some of the cakes, all made in the on-site bakery.

The bakery also sells loaves of bread to go. The bread rack was nearly emptied during the hour we spent enjoying our coffee and cake. There is outdoor seating with views of the gardens that would be lovely in warmer weather. The Yogurteria is child and pet-friendly, though dogs are not allowed near the barn.

More to See

While you’re at Tenuto Vannulo, an organic farm since 1996, be sure to visit the Museum of Rural Civilization. They have antique agricultural equipment, vehicles, and tools on display, some dating back 200 years. If you have opted to take a tour, your guide will provide explanations of all the implements and historical background on the area, which was once unusable swamp land.

There is also a workshop here where buffalo hides become exquisite leather goods. The hides are tanned elsewhere and returned to the farm. You can watch the artisans at work as they craft wallets, purses, belts, and other handmade products, available for sale here and on their online store. The shop also sells silk scarves featuring buffalo images, fancy soaps, and other items that make great souvenirs.

Tenuta Vannulo also makes gelato, of course. It was a bit early and chilly for a frozen treat the morning we came for our tour. Still, we made a return trip later in the week specifically to have their gelato—it was amazingly creamy, delicious, and well worth the 30-minute drive from Santa Maria di Castellabate, where we were staying. I also paid another visit to the barn to see what the buffalo were up to.

If You Go

Approximately 33,000 visitors a year from around the world come to take the guided tour at Tenuta Vannulo. It’s the best way to get a close-up look at the animals and the cheese-making process. It also includes a visit to the museum and the leather shop. Guided tours are offered between 9 am and noon and are given in English, Italian, French, and German. You can only book a tour by emailing in**@*****lo.it or calling +39 0828727894 ext. 1.

Tenuta Vannulo is an easy day trip by car from the two largest nearby cities, Salerno and Naples. It is a 40-minute drive from Salerno and a 90-minute drive from Naples. We stayed half an hour away in the seaside town of Santa Maria di Castellabate at the Palazzo Belmonte. It is a beautifully restored palazzo with comfortable rooms, views of the Amalfi Coast, a pool, and a private beach.

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To read more from Jeanne Neylon Decker, visit TravelTawk.com.