Standing on top of the 177-foot Torre Grossa—the tallest tower in San Gimignano, Italy—with the wind whipping at my face, filling my lungs, I take in the panoramic views of the medieval town below.
© Jocelyn Murray
The undulating Tuscan countryside, with its picturesque vineyards, olive groves, and mountain regions, stretches toward the horizon. I’m filled with a sense of euphoria. The climb up the 218 steps of this tower was steep and dizzying. But in that electrifying moment at the top, from that soaring height, I feel suspended in time. I’m momentarily caught in a place where past and present collide in a vertiginous rush.
No wonder this town, with its dramatic skyline, has been called the “Medieval Manhattan.” Fourteen of its original 72 towers remain today. They stand like sentinels guarding the feudal town. Even the soaring Torre Grossa once functioned as a military watchtower and bell tower, and it still rings its sonorous bell today.
Affluent patrician families built the towers as status symbols to showcase their power and wealth. The taller the tower, the more prominent the family appeared. Today, all the towers remain privately owned. Only the Torre Grossa, part of the city hall, is open to the public.
An Adventure Bridging Past and Present
Our adventure began the moment we arrived at the massive and impressively arched Porta San Giovanni. After pausing to take it all in, we stepped through the thick defensive walls surrounding the town. In that instant, we could have been pilgrims hiking the ancient Via Francigena, which runs through the town’s center.
We checked into one of the towers in the town—more on that later—then spent the day sightseeing. Beginning by trekking up and down old cobbled streets lined with shops. Then, climbing flights of stairs leading to hidden gardens with fountains. And finally, exploring numerous narrow alleyways running like tunnels under San Gimignano’s center before reconnecting to the main cobbled streets.
Like many medieval towns, San Gimignano follows a concentric pattern built around its piazzas, town hall, church, and bell tower at the heart of it all. Its cobblestone streets—lined with shops, eateries, and galleries—traverse the walled town.
© Jocelyn Murray
Immerse Yourself in the Sounds of the City
The lively sounds of tourists mingle in a variety of languages. Locals shout greetings to neighbors from apartment windows above the shops. Shopkeepers sort their goods for display amid browsing tourists. A cheerful energy thrums throughout the charming town. Its courtyards, fountains, soaring towers, ringing church bells, and delicious aromas create a sensual celebration.
© Jocelyn Murray
Throughout our exploration, we paused to admire the medieval architecture with its limestone walls, rounded arches, and riveted doors. We felt a sense of urgency, almost like children hurriedly playing before being called in for dinner. The sun was beginning to set, and soon dusk would drain the light from the sky.
Once darkness claimed the town, we settled down in a small restaurant bordering one of the piazzas. Over a leisurely supper, we planned our sightseeing activities for the following days.
San Gimignano’s History, Museums and Churches
Archeological Museum
An Etruscan village once thrived at the site of San Gimignano in the 3rd century BC. Expert craftsmen and builders, the Etruscans chose this location because of its trade routes leading to neighboring towns. The Archeological Museum houses a fascinating collection of Etruscan, Roman, and Medieval pottery and glass household artifacts. This includes ancient stone-carved funerary urns, and sculpted tomb covers in well-preserved condition.
Spezieria di Santa Fina
The Spezieria di Santa Fina is an ancient herb pharmacy and herbarium that is well worth visiting. This historic apothecary showcases a marvelous collection of glassware, jars, and instruments used to prepare and store medicinal remedies. Bowls of herbal and plant ingredients are openly displayed on tables, such as those that were once ground up and prepared to make healing tonics and balms. Display cases also house more glass and earthenware artifacts dating back to the 15th century.
Palazzo Comunale
Once the historic town hall, the Palazzo Comunale has beautifully frescoed rooms. This includes the Sala di Dante, named after the philosopher Dante Alighieri, who was in San Gimignano as ambassador of Florence in the year 1300. Most weekdays, a man dressed in a red velvet medieval robe with a matching cap stands outside the Palazzo Comunale in the Piazza del Duomo. With a dramatic flourish, he recites poetry from Dante’s Divine Comedy. And his deep voice resonates across the piazza.
© Jocelyn Murray
© Jocelyn Murray
Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art
The Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art opened in 2002 and contains a collection of artwork commissioned by the town, including works by Raffaele De Grada and temporary exhibitions.
Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta (Duomo di San Gimignano)
Rising above a broad flight of stairs from where it dominates the Piazza del Duomo, the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta takes center stage by the town hall and Torre Grossa belfry. It dates from the 12th century. Built in the Romanesque style, its soaring stone columns, cross-vaulted ceiling, stunning frescoes, and works of sacred art are magnificent. The frescoes covering the walls depict detailed scenes from the Old and New Testaments.
© Jocelyn Murray
While this is the principal church of San Gimignano, there are smaller churches worth visiting that are good examples of medieval architecture. They include the Church of San Lorenzo in Ponte, which houses the Museum of Sacred Art, and the Church of San Pietro in Forliano, one of the oldest churches in San Gimignano. These holy places of worship inspire awe and reverence that continue reverberating down the centuries.
San Gimignano Pass
Purchasing a two-day pass for about €13 is a bargain and grants admission to all the civic museums in San Gimignano. They include the Palazzo Comunale, the Archeological Museum, the Spezieria di Santa Fina, the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, the Chiesa di San Lorenzo in Ponte, and the soaring Torre Grossa—all 218 steps of it.
Additionally, several specialty museums are not included in the two-day pass. The Ornithology Museum showcases a taxidermized assortment of birds and the history of bird life in the region. The Museum of Torture boasts an exposition on medieval torture and capital punishment for the morbidly minded.
Our Accommodations
Most visitors to San Gimignano are day-trekking tourists from Florence and other cities. However, we opted to stay three nights to experience as much as possible and immerse ourselves in its enchantment. What better way to do so than in the very heart of San Gimignano, in one of its original towers? The Twin Towers or Torri dei Salvucci were, incidentally, said to be the inspiration of Japanese architect Minoru Yamasaki when he was planning the World Trade Center that once stood in New York City.
Built by the powerful Salvucci Family in the 1200s, the Twin Towers were constructed in defiance of a ban on building towers taller than Torre Rognosa, the second tallest tower in San Gimignano after Torre Grossa. The Twin Towers’ combined height exceeded all other towers at that time, asserting their dominance.
The condo in which we stayed is located in one of the Twin Towers in Piazza delle Erbe, next to Piazza Duomo, with most of the original stonework of the tower walls beautifully exposed. It is the only tower in San Gimignano with an elevator that takes you up to the living quarters.
The apartment includes a kitchen, bedroom, bathroom, and spacious living room with views of Piazza delle Erbe on one side and one of the narrow cobbled streets on the other. The rooftop is accessible by the elevator, followed by a spiral staircase, and offers stunning panoramic views of the town and surrounding countryside.
Wine Tasting and Dining
You cannot go to Tuscany without visiting one of its vineyards. We opted for a wine-tasting tour at the family-owned Tenuta Torciano Winery, founded in 1720 and a short drive from San Gimignano.
The staff was very knowledgeable and friendly, and we got to sample several wines, local cheeses, bruschetta, and a variety of olive oils. A lunch of lasagna with bechamel sauce followed—the “best in the world,” according to our server, who said his aunt prepares it fresh daily. We then enjoyed a stroll through the vineyard before returning to the town.
Dining in the town is a relaxed, leisurely affair with several courses and is best enjoyed with a glass of local wine. There are lots of eateries offering local specialty dishes like stewed pork with white beans, an array of pasta with savory sauces, as well as bruschetta, pizza, salads, and more.
We opted for a restaurant with outdoor seating in the Piazza del Duomo, where we could dine while watching people stroll by in the beautiful public square. We followed our server’s recommendation and ordered the stewed pork, which was fall-apart tender, flavorful, and perfectly paired with a chianti.
San Gimignano is also home to the award-winning Gelateria Dondoli, a gelato shop located in the Piazza della Cisterna. It features everything from classic flavors to creative concoctions like Ricotta and Carmignano figs, White Chocolate and Grand Marnier, and Champelmo, an enticing pink grapefruit and Vernaccia sparkling wine sorbet. The queue at this gelato shop can be long, but it is worth trying at least once.
An Enduring Legacy
Besides its fascinating history, numerous attractions, and historical sites, the people of San Gimignano are its flesh and blood. Their long-time traditions and roles as guardians of a medieval legacy keep it pulsing with life. A buongiorno offered from the owner of a café, a buona sera given by a shopkeeper on the street, a kind word or smile: these are the small gestures that made our stay so memorable. They also helped us blend in a little more when greeting the locals.
© Jocelyn Murray
During the day, San Gimignano is bustling with activity. But as the sun sets and night falls, a quiet hush envelops the town when most day-trekking tourists depart. The sun-warmed cobbles, limestone, and travertine buildings emit a sweet, tantalizing earthiness at night. Rich colors in high-resolution morph into sepia and monochromatic tones that are soon drenched in a darkness illuminated only by moonlight and the golden glow of street lamps and lights seeping from windows. The peaceful ensuing silence is punctuated by occasional voices, night birds, and dogs barking in the distance. It’s sublime.
This is perhaps my favorite time to explore this medieval town, for then I can imagine how little it might have changed throughout the centuries. You cannot walk away without its enchanting spirit living on in your imagination. It certainly does in mine.
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