Like a chromatic painting, the Indian Canyons in the Palm Springs desert dazzle with colors and shapes that seem almost supernatural. Imposing granite mountains sweep down to verdant oases of peculiar-looking palms. Otherworldly rock formations create a jumble of shapes against a cobalt sky. Wildflowers peek out from among the rocks, adding pops of color.
A few minutes’ drive from downtown, the Palm Springs Indian Canyons are breathtaking, rich in history and spiritual significance, and a reminder of the force of nature. The San Andreas fault transects the valley, evident in the jagged rocks leaning at all sorts of angles.
The History of Palm Springs’ Indian Canyons
These lands have sustained the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians for 8,000 years, although their Creation stories go back to time immemorial. The identity of the Agua Caliente people is rooted in the Canyons, as our guide Kate Anderson explains. Her tribe is in Oklahoma but she is proud to work for Agua Caliente and she knows their stories well. We were fortunate to be with her on Indigenous People’s Day.
The installation of a toll booth at the Canyons in the 1920s followed the construction of a bathhouse decades earlier on Agua Caliente land at Séc-he, the hot springs that gave Palm Springs its name. “We’ve been doing tourism before people knew what tourism was,” says Kate. The toll to enter the Canyons then was 25 cents; today, it’s $12 for a day pass.
The luxurious Spa at Séc-he is the fourth iteration of a bathhouse at the springs. The spa adjoins the Agua Caliente Cultural Museum which is a great starting point for Canyon visitors. The museum tells the story of Ma-ul who, wanting to leave a legacy for his people, turned himself into a palm tree that could provide food and shelter.
Washingtonia filifera, otherwise known as the Desert Fan palm or California Fan palm, is the only palm indigenous to this area. It’s a remarkable-looking tree – tall with a “cloak” of dried leaves hanging down the trunk. The Cahuilla established permanent villages at large palm groves. In Andreas Canyon, we saw ancient food preparation sites and shelters of yarrow wood draped with palm fronds.
Hiking the Andreas Canyon
“Andreas Canyon is great for beginners. It has everything: palm trees, water, rock formations, native plants,” says Kate, as we set off on a 1-mile loop trail that follows the creek, past spectacular rock formations. We had barely left the parking lot when we saw mortar holes used for grinding seeds and nuts.
Mostly, the creeks run through the Canyons in winter and spring, but Andreas Creek flows nearly all year. It’s a great spot to picnic or meditate, providing a welcome coolness in the desert heat. Camping is not allowed anywhere in the Canyons but there are more than 60 miles of hiking and equestrian trails that can be enjoyed on day visits.
Palm Canyon is more than 15 miles long and has the world’s greatest concentration of Washingtonia filifera palms (more than 2,000). You can choose hikes of one to four hours’ duration if you don’t want to do the whole 15 miles. The Palm Canyon trail connects with the Pacific Coast trail which extends from Mexico to Canada.
Birdwatching in the Palm Springs Indian Canyons
The Canyons are great for birdwatching. We were overjoyed to see hummingbirds fluttering around near the rest spot at Palm Canyon. The greatest thrill, however, was seeing some Peninsular Bighorn sheep on the mountain. There are thought to be fewer than 200 of these majestic animals in the Canyon. A ranger tells us it’s hit and miss if you see one. Today is our lucky day.
More Information on the Palm Springs Indian Canyons
The Palm Springs Indian Canyons are open daily from October 1 to July 4, and Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays from July 5 to September 30. Ranger-led tours are available Friday, Saturday, and Sunday from 10 am to 1 pm.
Buy day tickets ($12) at the Indian Canyons Toll Gate, 38520 S. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs. Day tickets and annual passes are available from the Palm Springs Visitor Center, 2901 N. Palm Canyon Drive.
Tel: 760-323-6018 or visit www.Indian-Canyons.com
Our group of food and travel journalists, representing the International Food, Wine, and Travel Writers Association, were guests of Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels.
Christine blogs at https://www.foodwinetravel.com.au/
