I’d never wine tasted on a “bench” until this trip to Okanagan Lake. More on benches soon.
The communities of Summerland and Penticton sit on opposite sides of Okanagan Lake, in the Canadian province of British Columbia. They’re only a 20-minute drive apart, but the wine scenes feel pretty different. Summerland’s Bottleneck Drive is a rural, low-key route still run by farmers and family estates. The Penticton side is a bit more developed and geared toward wine tourism.
Bottleneck Drive runs through farms and orchards, with small wineries spread throughout. Most grow their fruit, focus on sustainable farming, and aren’t afraid to experiment—the Zweigelt grape, Orange wines, hybrids, whatever makes sense for the site. You’re likely to be poured wine by the owners, the winemaker, or family members.
On the Penticton side, vineyards on the Naramata Bench are on steep slopes with direct lake exposure. The focus here is on more popular wines, such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and crisp aromatic whites, often vineyard-designated. There’s more infrastructure, more crowds, and more organized “experiences”—think tasting flights, vineyard tours, scheduled appointments, and even a wine shuttle bus.
Both Summerland and Naramata sit on “benches.” Literally. Benches are raised flatlands formed by glacial carving of the lake slopes. They are ideal for growing from a farming perspective, with good drainage, exposure, and air movement.
Two regions of Okanagan Lake wine and two benches to explore, with over 100 wineries between them. Both with different vibes and terroir, and worth your time if you want to experience what South Okanagan Wine is all about.
Headed to British Columbia? See Lake Country’s Renaissance: How Two Wineries are redefining Tourism
Exploring Okanagan Lake Wine: Summerland and Bottleneck Drive Wineries
Bottleneck Drive is Summerland’s marketing collective of small wineries, cideries, a brewery, and a distillery—all scattered across farmland and lake-facing hills, with many on Summerland Bench. Most are family-run, many work exclusively with estate fruit, and nearly all have a farming mindset. If you enjoy talking and tasting with the owner or winemaker, there’s a good chance you will.
You’ll find some of the usual vinous suspects—Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir—but also some less familiar varieties like Zweigelt and Maréchal Foch. There’s real experimentation happening here, including skin-contact whites and hybrid grapes. You won’t see many tour buses, and that’s part of the appeal.
In reality, the Summerland growing area is more than the Bench. It encompasses three Sub GIs (Geographical Indications, as they are known in Canada) – Summerland Valleys, Lakefront, and Bench.
Their proximity to Lake Okanagan is key to their success. It is a deep glacial lake that stores heat, moderates temperature, provides airflow, and creates an ideal environment for wine grapes. Summerland is located on its western shores and is east-facing, with vineyards composed of silt and clay soils, many at 1,000- to 1,200-foot elevations.
Touring Bottleneck Drive
This is a self-guided wine trail located in the hills and farmland above the lake. There are about 20 tasting venues designed to make it easy for adults to tour, relax, and imbibe. (Taste and spit, people!)
The wineries are clustered close together, making it easy to visit multiple locations in a day. The vibe is laid-back and approachable. In many cases, the owner-operators live on the property.
The Bottleneck Drive Route website has a map and a wine routes page broken up into three color-coded loops with stops in close proximity. This makes driving and planning a no-brainer, and interested wine lovers will want to spend two or three days touring in the area.
Solvero
Solvero is located in Garnet Valley, part of Summerland Valley’s GI, on a diverse hillside of forest land. There are gardens with resident chickens and ducks, all of whom contribute to the site’s productivity. This is one of the highest vineyard sites, with about 17 acres planted, at almost 2,000 feet in elevation.
The winemaking focus is single variety wines, specifically Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir, with only 2,000 cases produced. This is a site-specific artisanal wine program and is worth driving a few winding roads for. I consider Solvero a discovery opportunity for wine travelers.
Visit – Daily 11 am to 4 pm. Book a seated portfolio tasting and charcuterie board. Try Yoga, Vine & Wine.
Meet Solvero’s Wine Character: Alison Moyes, Winemaker (Note: For some of the wineries listed here, I’m linking to winemaker interviews, part of my Wine Characters project that highlights colorful people in the wine industry.)
Most Emblematic Wine: Garnet Valley Pinot Noir
Haywire Winery
Haywire Winery, formerly Okanagan Crush Pad, was founded by Christine Coletta, who some consider the Godmother of the local Wine Industry. She is credited with starting the VQA (Vintners Quality Alliance) program in Canada.
Haywire Winery was established in 2006 on the location of Switchback Vineyard, a 10-acre organic site. Organic growing continues today, along with minimal intervention winemaking by New Zealand native Matt Dumayne.
I found the commitment to concrete tanks astonishing. There are over 40 onsite tanks for fermentation and storage, ranging from 500 to 3,000 liters. There are also six 8-foot-high black eggs, something I’d never seen. Those are old-world equipment and methods you don’t see much in North America. Concrete promotes freshness and highlights acidity in the wines.
Visit – Daily 12-6 pm. Check the website for multiple experiences and visit/tasting options. Be sure to ask for a tour of the cellar as part of your visit.
Meet Haywire’s Wine Character: Matt Dumayne, Winemaker
Most Emblematic Wine: Gamay Noir
Lightning Rock
Lightning Rock Winery derives its name from a legend of lightning striking and splitting a huge granite rock on the property. Ron and Tracy Kubek purchased it in 2017 and have amassed a strong local following. This is due partially to the expansive views (from Peachland to Penticton), dog- and family-friendly business model, and the engaging personalities of the owners and hospitality-focused staff.
Community support is a point of difference at Lightning Rock. If this is important to you as a visitor and patron, learn more about which programs and fundraisers the owners sponsor.
The wines are excellent, with several sparklers and more labels — both white and red — than you’d expect from a 3,000-case producer.
Visit – Daily 11 am-5 pm. Check the website for appointments and upcoming events. Enjoy picnicking, putting greens, and juice boxes for the kids and the designated driver.
Meet Lightning Rock’s Wine Character: Ron Kubek, Owner & Winegrower
Most Emblematic Wine: Elysia Blanc de Noir
Summerland Heritage Cider
Summerland Heritage Cider is a family-run orchard and estate cidery, opened in 2016, followed by the tasting room and winery, a large contemporary barn with indoor-outdoor space, in 2020. You’ll likely meet owners Ted or Lauren Vollo. If not, their competent staff do triple duty in the tasting room, cidery, and kitchen. All craft ciders are grown and produced onsite.
The Vollo’s farm has about 20 acres of apples and four acres of cherries. Most of the good quality, unblemished shiny stuff is sold to groceries to pay the bills. The most popular are Gala, Ambrosia, and Honey Crisp. The balance of the fruit is turned into craft cider onsite.
Our visit was the most chill and relaxing on the trip. Busy farmers worked in the background while we sipped fine ciders in the foreground, gazing out at the views and orchards. Choose a flight and enjoy a self-guided, slow-paced tasting.
Visit – Thursday through Sunday, 11 am-5 pm. Daily starting in May. Cider flights and pints available with snacks and sandos on the patio. Walk-ins, families, dogs, and weddings are welcome.
Most Emblematic Cider: Dry Brittany style (#1 on the tasting list)
Lunessence Winery
Lunessence Winery was founded in 2014 on the Summerland Bench. The winery was farmed organically from inception, receiving certification in 2020. The property is dry farmed and has two wetland preservation areas that are home to diverse birds, plants, and animals.
Sustainability is at the forefront of the Lunessence business model, with thoughtful consideration given to wildlife and wetland preservation. Estate-grown and -produced white wines are distinctive and a specialty of the house.
Visit – Daily 11 am-6 pm. Seated tastings with fab lake views; Patio for BYO picnic; pet friendly; exceptional wines and service. Food – Charcuterie and (occasional) Dim Sum!
Meet Lunessence’s Wine Character: Brandon J. Lawrence
Most Emblematic Wine: Blanc de Noir Rose
Where to Stay
Summerland Waterfront Resort & Spa
Set on the shores of Okanagan Lake, Summerland Waterfront Resort & Spa offers spacious suites with full kitchens, fireplaces, balconies, an outdoor pool and hot tubs, a full-service spa, an on-site bistro, cruiser bikes for lakeside spins, and other activities. We enjoyed warm and professional service. The resort works for couples, families, and group getaways.
Where to Eat
Shaughnessy’s Cove Restaurant
If you’re staying at the Waterfront resort, you’ll likely dine at Shaughnessy Cove, and you should. This is a delightful indoor-outdoor dining establishment with great food and service. We received lots of attention, large portions of fresh fish, generous wine pours (oh wait, we ordered bottles), and an overall dining special experience.
Other dining options
What to Do
The Grand Sommelier Express Train
Yes, you could knock out a tour of the South Okanagan in an afternoon. Drive from Summerland to Penticton, hit a few tasting rooms, and call it a day. But the region is best experienced at a slower pace.
The Historic Kettle Valley Steam Railway offers a wine tour adventure called the Grand Sommelier Express, annually for two days in June, in a restored 1912 steam locomotive. It runs from Spring to Fall, so check the website for reservations and other special events.
Take This Wine Tour Adventure…
You’ll be cruising at over 200 feet above the canyon floor for about 90 minutes, passing through trestles with lake and canyon views. I recommend it to adventurous visitors in search of wine, food, music, and great views. You get stunning valley views, meet interesting people, including winemakers, taste great wines, relax, and enjoy pleasant weather. Until you don’t! (See below.) Don’t worry, it turned out well.
- What you will experience when you arrive at the train depot is a wine-themed lunch party complete with winemakers, caterers, live music, and some fellow oenophiles dressed in their 1920s-era summer finest. You’ll board the train, take your seats, and be sipping fine in a matter of moments. There are stops along the way for more wine, music, and passed appetizers. It all ends with a digestif and dessert course. Charming, lovely, genteel, and oh so Summerland.
- What we experienced was unexpected – thunder, lightning, and torrential rain. We were seated in the open-air train car section. Summer “flapper” dresses, vests, and collared shirts were flash-drenched; panic and scattering heels ensued; tarps were passed out, but the train continued on its way, as trains do even in inclement weather. Then the storm was over. The sun burst through clouds and illuminated the vineyard and canyon vistas with filtered light. And the party continued, albeit with an edge of excitement and stories to tell.
Penticton: A Central Hub in the Okanagan Valley Wine Region
Penticton sits about 15 minutes south of Summerland and is the base for wine touring in the southern Okanagan. The city is located between Okanagan Lake and Skaha Lake. It’s surrounded by vineyards and bordered by two major sub-appellations: the Naramata Bench and the Skaha Bench, both established as sub-GIs in 2019.
There’s a growing number of urban wineries and tasting rooms in town, but the real appeal is accessibility. There are over 80 wineries within a 20-minute drive. It’s where most people stay, eat, and play during their wine tours, whether they’re heading up the Naramata Bench or across the lake to Bottleneck Drive.
Naramata Bench: Steep Slopes and Vineyard Sites
Just across the lake from the Summerland Bench, the Naramata Bench begins at the edge of Penticton and stretches northward for 15 miles along a narrow ridge, with vineyards facing directly west over Okanagan Lake. The bench’s soils are a mix of glacial silt, gravel, and clay, and the exposure provides warm daylight hours and cool nights. This climate is ideal for Pinot Noir, Merlot, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling, and sparkling wines.
Wineries on the Naramata Bench tend to be closer together than those in Summerland. They have a larger staff and offer structured tastings and food pairings. Generally, the Naramata Bench has a reputation for providing a more polished visitor experience.
Joie Farm Winery
Joie Farm Winery was founded in 2004 with one thing in mind – Joie de Vivre, French for the Joy of Life. And they bring it. This is a fun place with a playful vibe, well-crafted wines, and wait for it, hot dogs. No, not the show dogs you see on TV, but the real wiener deal. And they pair beautifully with Joie’s well-crafted Alsatian-style wines.
I have to admit I was a little skeptical about the Hot Dog Lounge, but the dogs were next-level good. I selected “The Alsatian” to stay on-theme. Sauteed onions, sauerkraut, mayo, and Bavarian mustard paired – oh so well – with the 2023 Noble Blend white wine. If wine and wiener pairings aren’t your thing, they also have beer on draft… but you’d be missing the point.
Visit – Head for the red barn and tastings, any day of the week from 11 am to 5 pm. Say hello to Steph and Juliana, and let them know where you read about the Farm. And do leave lots of extra time to hang out, lounge on the deck or lawn, and soak in the views, and hopefully some Okanagan sunshine.
Meet Joie Farm’s Wine Character: Richard Charnock, Executive Winemaker
Most Emblematic Wine: Noble Blend
La Petite Abeille Cidery
La Petite Abeille Cidery opened its tasting room in 2020. The pear and apple orchards are a charming nod to cideries in Northwest France, complete with the iconic blue bee. In fact, their estate fruit comes from the “Blue Bee Orchard.”
LPA Cider produces dry and off-dry artisanal ciders that give you a short pause from winetasting, and definitely a contrasting experience.
The tasting room and outdoor patio were popular on the mid-June afternoon we visited. You’ll experience a nice mix of fanciful French-themed sparkling ciders surrounded by orchards and lake views. You can do a tasting standing or seated indoors, or bring a picnic and order cider by the glass or bottle if you prefer the outdoor patio.
Visit – The tasting room is open daily 11 am-5 pm from July to September, and 12 pm-5 pm daily except Tuesday and Wednesday during the quiet season. I like quiet seasons for serious and unfettered tastings and suggest you settle into the charming indoor space with a charcuterie board and a bottle of “cidre.” How very French of you.
Most Emblematic Cider: Pear Charmat
Hillside Winery
Hillside Winery was the second winery established on Okanagan Lake, over 40 years ago. Originally a farmhouse on apricot orchards in the early 1900s, it presents as both old-timey (the building was designed to resemble a French flour mill) and upscale contemporary (the farm-to-table bistro is a modern open space eatery).
Bohumir and Vera Klokocka immigrated to the Okanagan Valley from Czechoslovakia in 1979. They replaced apricot trees with Vitis vinifera grapes. With the first permitted small grower and winery, Lang Vineyards, they helped bring about the transformation of the Okanagan Valley in 1989. Winemaker Kathy Malone of Vermont joined in 2008.
Love old vine wines? Three acres of vineyards were planted in 1984, originally to Muscat Ottonel and Gamay Noir, and single variety versions of both are still offered.
Today, there are about 20 acres of vines planted to multiple varieties. I particularly liked the 2021 Founder’s Block Gamay Noir. Hillside stakes its reputation on the quality of its soils and location, a broad portfolio of offerings, and a guarantee of 100 percent Naramata-grown wines.
Visit – Daily 12-6 pm. Closed November and December. Reservations and Walk-ins welcome.
Meet Hillside’s Wine Character: Kathy Malone, Winemaker
Most Emblematic Wine: Founder’s Block Gamay Noir
Where to Eat
OROLO Restaurant & Cocktail Bar
OROLO Restaurant is haute cuisine at affordable prices, and in an elegant setting in the heart of downtown Penticton. It’s a seafood and steak house, so we chose both – grilled calamari steaks and dry-aged ribeye – and were delighted. They offer glass pours and bottles of both their Chronos Winery brand and other Okanagan Valley wineries. Your server will gladly make pairing suggestions.
The restaurant is open daily from 4 pm – 9 pm. Happy Hour is from 4-5 pm, but plan to stay for dinner. Wine Wednesday bottles are 50 percent off wine list pricing.
A little more background is merited. OROLO is part of the Time Family of Wines. Harry McWatters spent over 50 years in the wine business, founded Chronos Winery, and was one of the pioneers of the VQA. He died in 2019, and the winery was sold to Ron & Shelley Mayert, a fourth-generation local farming family. I mention all this because there’s lots of history and more in the making.
The Chronos Winery tasting room is in the same building as the restaurant in downtown Penticton. It was formerly a movie theater and is worth touring if the opportunity arises during your visit. Our server, the talented and wine-knowledgeable Caryn Sturhahn, invited us to have a look after dinner. Going forward in “Time,” the hospitality group just opened Evolve Sparkling House nearby in Penticton. It’s open daily 12-6 pm.
Where to Stay
Penticton Lakeside Resort
Located right on the lake, as you’d expect, this is a large resort with all the amenities, including bars, restaurants, and live music. There’s even a private beach in the summer, a private marina for guests, and a skating rink in the winter. We enjoyed the lakeside walking trails found directly out the back door. Check out the swimming pool and hot tub. Adults only 10 pm-midnight!
What to Do
Penticton Farmers’ Market and Downtown Community Market
These adjacent markets on Main Street in downtown Penticton take place on Saturdays from 8:30 am to 1 pm. The farmers’ market has been a thing since 1991. You’ll find what you’d expect – locally grown seasonal fruits and vegetables, eggs, honey and jams, and homemade crafts. It’s fun and hyper-local. This is where you want to shop if you have kitchen facilities available.
The Downtown Community market runs from May “Long Weekend” to the second week of September. You’ll find lots of vendors and their wares and collectibles. Plan to stay for a meal and live entertainment.
Penticton-Naramata Planning and Resources
Try these websites: Visit Penticton, Discover Naramata, and Naramata Bench Wines
And before you depart…
Blasted Church
Blasted Church Winery is always tongue-in-cheek and a bit blasphemous. There, I said it. Visitors to the winery encounter a robe-clad gentleman at the driveway entrance sign. He points to “This is your Sign” and “Heavenly wines ahead.” On arrival at the tasting room, two nuns are graffitiing “Welcome to Church” by spray painting the word “Blasted” onto their sign. You’ll also notice that the wines have a playful and somewhat sinful take on religious themes, like OMG, Nothing Sacred, Unorthodox Chardonnay, Holy Moly, and Cross to Bear. You’ll understand when you read the story and see the branding, specifically the labels. Please click here and explore.
The winery is on 72 acres with 42 under vine, and produces about 20,000 cases per year (mid-sized by Canadian winery standards). It was part of the “Made in Canada” campaign, which was the result of the 2024 vine-killing frosts in the Okanagan and ensuing collaboration with Washington State wine growers. The provincial government allowed the cross-border purchase of grapes as long as the resulting wines were “Made in Canada” and labeled as such.
Blasted Church is also unique to this article as they are the only winery in the Skaha Bench sub-GI of Okanagan Valley. We visited the winery on our way south on Highway 97 to the USA border. It’s a fun stop en route home, to do one last wine tasting and picnic lunch before returning to the land of tariffs. How about that for irreverence?
Visit – Daily 10 am-5 pm. Check schedules during low season (November-March). You’ll enjoy Lake Skaha views from the tasting patio. BYO Picnic or charcuterie boxes are available.
Meet Blasted Churches Wine Character: Evan Saunders, Winemaker
Most Emblematic Wine: Hatfield’s Fuse white blend
Visit all the Benches
The Lake Okanagan Wine scene is thriving with over 100 wineries ranging from Summerland and Penticton south to Oliver and Osoyoos near the U.S. border. Why not pull up a “bench” or three and dig into all the fun? If planes take flight, trains stay grounded—and this place is better experienced at track speed. And remember. No tariffs, just terroir!
You may also enjoy reading:
- Lake Country’s Renaissance: How Two Wineries are redefining Tourism
- Paso Robles Winemakers are Thinking Outside the Bottle
- Barnacles and Albariño: Rías Baixas Wines and Galician Gastronomy
- The Tastes of Baja California, Mexico’s Valle de Guadalupe
Subscribe to Carl Giavanti’s international Winemaker Interview series Wine Characters for a fresh take on the people behind the bottle.
