Just two hours from San Diego, Valle de Guadalupe in Baja California, Mexico, is evidence of the growth of Mexican wines on the international stage. This once obscure region has emerged as a hipster haven for wine enthusiasts, offering a unique blend of boulder-strewn mountain landscapes, extensive vineyards, and a dynamic eco-sensitive wine culture that rivals some of the world’s most well known regions. It’s a top spot for Mexico wine tasting.
Located a one-hour drive south of Tecate, the home of one of Mexico’s largest brewers, Highway 3 leads you through stunning high desert country into Guadalupe Valley and ultimately to the coastal town of Ensenada. You’ll experience a Mediterranean-like climate that’s proved to be ideal for grape cultivation and what has been fondly referred to as Baja-Med cuisine. Warm days, cool nights, and well-drained soils create the perfect conditions for winegrowing and thoughtful tourism.
Mexico Wine Tasting: Many Varietals
Growing grapes and making wine in the Guadalupe Valley is a high (desert) wire act. The climate is severe and the terroir unique, so expect the wines produced to express themselves uniquely. There are no restrictions on what you can grow here. You’ll find Bordeaux, Loire Valley, and Rhone-style varieties like Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Grenache, and Syrah. Traditional Spanish and Italian varieties are also popular, including Tempranillo, Sangiovese, and Nebbiolo. In short, there’s something for everyone.
Local residents and businesses in the valley – winemakers, growers, restaurateurs, and tourism organizations – are committed to preserving and promoting the cultural history of the region, as well as experimenting with holistic approaches to producing wine and cuisine. Their challenges include the need to manage tourism due to water scarcity and infrastructure limitations.
Where to Wine, Dine & Relax
Less is more when visiting winery tasting rooms in the Guadalupe Valley.
Unlike wine tasting in much of the U.S., the vibes and settings of Mexico wine tasting promote lingering, more akin to what you’d experience in places like Argentina or Spain, where your visit might span several hours of wine and food experience. Many include dining options as well as lodging, which promotes unhurried relaxation and depth of experience.
I visited each of these 12 wineries and ate at many of their restaurants over four days of intense touring. My trip was not quite as relaxed as what I’m recommending here, as I was on assignment. I suggest you set a leisurely pace appropriate for you and your companions.
The styles of these properties are as diverse as the wines, ranging from rustic haciendas to sleek and modern buildings. Create an elegant and unhurried itinerary with one winery visit in the late morning followed by lunch, and then one or two tasting visits in the afternoon before chilling at your hotel, resort, or rental home before heading out for dinner. Peak dinner hours are typically 7-8 p.m. It’s best to reserve your table in advance.
Pairing Mexican Wine & Food
One of my first fascinations in my 20s with Mexican alcoholic beverages was the “Tequila Sunrise,” because it was so easy to imbibe and delightfully dangerous. Back in the day, I remember drinking them while driving around Cozumel with friends in a vehicle called the Volkswagen Thing. It all seemed apropos.
We all know that Mexican cervezas are excellent. Can’t you picture that bottle of Corona topped with a lime wedge on a hot beachy day? Lately, I’ve become enamored of Oaxacan mezcal with lots of limón and agave syrup. Some of these beverages pair particularly well with Mexican cuisine, and it’s all fun to try.
About Those Pairings…
But I digress. So, what about Mexican wine pairings? Yes, please!
However, it’s not that easy. The entire Baja peninsula is a maritime environment and was underwater thousands of years ago. The ocean still plays a role in what you taste in your glass. There is a pleasant salinity in many of the wines, expressing full-bodied richness on the palate. Pair saltiness with salty foods or contrast it with sweet dishes.
Dry, tannic, and high-alcohol red wines such as Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, and Nebbiolo do not pair well with hot peppers and spicy foods. The alcohol and tannins of the wines are exaggerated by the spice, so try pairing these wines with carne asada, beef or pork tacos.
For spicy foods, try sweeter or off-dry and lower alcohol wines such as Grenache or Pinot Noir, and white wines with a little sweetness like rosé wines, Rieslings, and Pinot Gris. Other white wines like Sauvignon Blanc have little tannin but medium-high acidity, which makes for great pairings with seafood, ceviche, oysters, crudos, or grilled poultry and rich dishes such as mole. I love pozole soups with Chenin Blanc because of the richness of both.
Into the Cellars and Kitchens of 12 Must-Visit Wineries
The valley offers so many options. Pick your vibe and style from farm-to-table restaurants, food trucks, and gourmet eateries, all showcasing the region’s fresh and seasonal ingredients. Note: don’t be put off by the term food trucks. The ones noted here put out gourmet dishes.
Also seasonal are wine and food events that take place throughout the year, which include festivals, art exhibitions, and charity events. The high season ranges from April through October. The Provino winery and cultural association website is a great reference for advance planning.
Remember to check for reservations, especially on the weekends, as Valle de Guadalupe’s tasting rooms’ and restaurants’ popularity continues to grow. These wineries produce exceptional wines and also diverse culinary offerings.
Lunch is an important and strategic time of the day. You will want to linger at the winery you’re visiting before or after dining onsite.
Dinner is equally important as you’ll need to refresh and level set for the following day. Dinner is your reward and payback after wine tasting.
Choose from among these 12 wineries and you can’t go wrong. Each offers exceptional wines and food options for a memorable culinary experience and an opportunity to relax and dine indoors or outdoors before retiring for the evening. Some of these properties have lodging onsite, making for a delightful and short commute from dining to dwelling.
Note on Schedules: Check websites for updated schedules, as open times and dates are seasonal and subject to change.
Adobe Guadalupe
Open Daily 10-6 p.m. Food Truck Thursday-Monday 11:30-6:30 p.m.
This pioneering hacienda-style winery and tasting room has been open over 25 years. At Adobe Guadalupe you can wine, dine, chill, and check out their renowned equestrian center. Enjoy a relaxed wine tasting of Rhone and Bordeaux style red blends with an “Archangel” theme, followed by lunch at their on-site Food Truck restaurant. Lodging is available onsite.
Vena Cava
Daily 11-6 p.m. Winery and Troika Food Truck.
The Vena Cava winery is an amazing example of creative recycling. The five winery buildings have roofs made of intact discarded wooden boats along with other flotsam and jetsam. Vena Cava is an innovator when it comes to “natural” wines. I loved their sparkling and still Sauvignon Blanc and red blends. Wines pair wonderfully with beautifully plated dishes from their lakeside food truck, Troika. There is also elegant lodging onsite.
Monte Xanic
Daily 11-5 p.m. Outdoor and lakeside patios for wine tasting.
With a legacy of over three decades, Monte Xanic is known for developing and promoting fine wine in the valley. They have old vine estate vineyards onsite, as well as a new project in an adjacent valley where Chardonnay, Merlot, and Pinot Noir are being tested. This is another location where you can spend the better part of the day. They offer charcuterie, meat, and local cheese plate service on the terrace and on the lake deck. The kitchen also offers seasonal, locally sourced traditional dishes.
Vinos Paoloni Features Valle de Guadalupe Wine
Open daily 10-6 p.m.
Vinos Paoloni is Paolo Paoloni’s dream project, and it includes an onsite winery, tasting room, and a kitchen on a large indoor/outdoor patio. You can order a la carte or ask the staff to make pairing suggestions. All wines are Italian-style reds such as Nebbiolo, Montepulciano, and Aglianico, and foods that Paolo describes as “Comidas y Vinos Mexicanos con Corazón Italiano” – Mexican wines and cuisine with an Italian heart. Ask the kitchen if they’re serving Pappardelle Cinghale. Villa Suites Lodging is also offered onsite.
Las Nubes Winery
Tastings daily 11-5 p.m. Restaurant 12-6 p.m. daily
Taste and dine “in the clouds” at one of the highest elevations in the valley. Las Nubes Winery is a place to hunker down after wine tasting, late lunch, and savoring the last of that special bottle. The wines are exceptional and meant to be paired with food, and the onsite Envero Restaurant is doing creative things to ensure an exceptional experience. The Sauvignon and Chardonnay white blend is terrific with fresh oysters and other seafood. This is a great place to try red blends with varieties including Grenache, Carignan, Syrah, Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo and Petite Syrah. All are well crafted in the onsite winery.
JC Bravo
Open Tuesday-Sunday 11-5 p.m
JC (Juan Carlos) Bravo is one of the early pioneers of valley wineries and is entirely family-owned and operated. You will likely meet JC or his daughters in the tasting room. Love to picnic? This is where you can bring your lunch of bread and local cheese, then purchase and enjoy olive oils and fruit jams (quince, fig, and guava) from their farm. They grow two estate grapes, including a white from Palomino grapes (traditionally from Southern Spain) that pairs nicely with any local seafood. Their red, a Carignan variety (think Rhone Valley) pairs with beefsteak.
Bodegas de Santo Tomás
Daily 10:30-5 p.m. Restaurant 1-7 p.m. Closed Tuesday & Wednesday
Bodegas de Santo Tomás is the oldest winery in Baja California, and second oldest in all of Mexico. Go here to tour, visit the historic cellars, and enjoy a traditional Mexican meal at their on-site restaurant Villa Torel, which offers panoramic views of the vineyards. The entry level “Mision” series offers price-value quality under $15 U.S. Interesting offerings include a Chenin Blanc and Colombard white blend, and a Carignan, Tempranillo, and Mission Grape red blend.
Finca Altozano
Tuesday-Sunday 1-8 p.m.
Finca Altozano restaurant is located on a rutted dirt road off Highway 3. You will wonder if it’s worth the effort. It is. While not a winery, the wine list is an exceptional representation of the diversity of Valle de Guadalupe wines. The restaurant has a special charm and elegance, and is renowned for its wood-fired dishes including fresh seafood, grilled meats, and farm-to-table dishes, all with stunning distant views. The service is exceptional.
Clos de Tres Cantos
Tasting Room Wednesday-Sunday 10-5 p.m. or by appointment. Lodging. Ariete Restaurant Thursday-Sunday 1-7 p.m. for lunch and dinner. EcoLodge cabañas onsite.
This property, Clos de Tres Cantos, was inspired by Spanish monasteries and Mayan pyramids, and also tertulias which are philosophical and literary gatherings. It’s eclectic with much to explore including the winery buildings, subterranean caves, and a community library, all built with recycled materials. Try the Chenin Blanc and Tempranillo, and pair the Petite Syrah-Tempranillo blend with Portobello Risotto.
Finca La Carrodilla
Wednesday-Sunday 11-5 p.m. Appointments preferred
Finca La Carrodilla is one of the early adopters of organic and biodynamic agriculture. The 34-acre farm includes flower and vegetable gardens, horses, cows, sheep, chickens, bees, and of course, the vineyards. You can visit the Chapel of the Virgin of Carrodilla and taste wines on their innovative rooftop garden. The white and red blends are thoughtfully crafted and will pair with cheese made onsite which you can purchase onsite. This place is ideal for casual picnicking and unwinding to take in the ambiance.
Aledano
In Hotel Hacienda Guadalupe. Daily 1-10 p.m. Closed Monday.
This open-air restaurant-bar is conveniently located on the hotel terrace and has late night hours, unlike most restaurants in the valley. While technically not a winery, Aledano has their own house wines. You’ll find fresh salads, oysters, shrimp and octopus appetizers, fresh produce and fruit salads, grilled shrimp, local fish of the day, and various cuts of grilled Sonoran beef.
Deckman’s en el Mogor
Thursday-Monday 1-8:30 p.m
Surrounded by vineyards and olive groves, and adjacent to Mogor Badan Winery, Deckman’s en el Mogor offers a unique dining experience. Chef Drew Deckman prepares dishes using ingredients sourced from the on-site organic gardens. Start with a wine tasting at Mogor Badan Winery (pm or by appointment), then kick back over a delightful dinner in this rustic yet sophisticated setting.
A Vinous and Epicurean Call to Action
The story of Valle de Guadalupe wine is still being written. This isn’t just about sipping and savoring wines; it’s a celebration of Mexican wine, gastronomy, and a unique culture.
Challenging road conditions and water scarcity have thus far minimized mass tourism, and this presents an opportunity for those interested in discovery travel and the road less visited.
Somehow, the locals seem to like it this way. They encourage serious aficionados of wine and food to invest the time to visit and explore. You will be amply rewarded.
You may also like:
