Discovering New Zealand’s Most Exciting Food and Wine

During the 17-hour Qantas flight from JFK to Auckland, New Zealand, for a 16-day trip, I had one nagging thought. “I wonder if I’ll have to drink Sauvignon Blanc the whole time?”  Because while I like Sauv Blanc, I don’t love it.  But I was off to discover the food and wine of New Zealand anyway.

I needn’t have fretted. While Sauvignon Blanc is the queen of wine varietals in New Zealand, there is plenty more to discover. As a Certified Specialist of Wine, I am always excited to find wines that aren’t getting exported to the U.S.

From Auckland to Queenstown, I discovered a country that takes its wine and food as seriously as its bungee jumping. New Zealand relies mostly on local ingredients. I also noticed a distinct focus on the beautiful presentation of food, from casual cafés to fine dining restaurants. 

Day Drinking and Fine Dining in Auckland

Our first stop was an intimate all-day boite called Edie’s Wine Bar in the hip Ponsonby neighborhood. We toasted our trip with a refreshing pet nat of pinot noir by a Christchurch producer called 15 Minute Bottles. (Pet nat is short for petillant naturel – a winemaking technique where fermentation is paused. Then the wine is bottled, and residual CO2 causes natural effervescence. These wines are young, fresh, fun, and sometimes a little funky.) 

As thoughts of lunch sprang to mind, we strolled up the street to another petite wine bar, Beau. We were led to a shady table on a cozy back patio offering stunning views of Auckland’s Sky Tower. Beau has a menu of European and New Zealand wines “because New Zealanders like some variety,” explained the server. They also have a concise menu of wine-friendly dishes. The Churton Petit Manseng paired perfectly with briny, creamy Waiheke Island and Coromandel oysters and fresh ceviche. 

For our first taste of fine dining, we headed to Sails, a family-owned harbor-side seafood restaurant. Here I tasted my first New Zealand sparkling wine, a Cloudy Bay Pelarus methode traditionelle sparkling Sauvignon Blanc. This wine made pan-seared sea scallops with parsnip puree and crispy ham pop.

Ahi is another popular Auckland fine-dining restaurant known for its locally sourced ingredients and its own organic vegetable garden. Situated on the waterfront in downtown Auckland, Ahi has a modern, buzzy vibe. I had a crazy Marlborough white wine from Deep Down Wines. It was a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Sauvignon Blanc. It was bright, had a nice weight, and paired perfectly with Te Matuku oysters from Waiheke Island.

Ice Cream and Sweet Treats

With nearly 6 million dairy cows, New Zealand turns out a lot of ice cream. There are two specialties when it comes to ice cream: hokey pokey and real fruit ice cream. 

Hokey Pokey ice cream is everywhere. It’s vanilla ice cream speckled with bits of honeycomb toffee. It’s as classic in New Zealand as cookies and cream is in the U.S. Speaking of honeycomb, that’s everywhere, too. You’ll find it in all sorts of candy bars, including chocolate bars by Whittaker, the national chocolate brand.

Real fruit ice cream is only offered at certain shops. Your choice of frozen berries, mango, or bananas is blended with ice cream in a special machine that swirls it all together. Go for a tall, twirly cone or a cup. This real-fruit-flecked, creamy, cold treat is addictive.

A Wonderland of Wineries

New Zealand is home to 700 wineries spread over eight regions. Sauvignon Blanc is 70 percent of total production, and New Zealand turns out 17 percent of the world’s Sauvignon Blanc. But there is much more to New Zealand than Sauv Blanc. 

West Auckland 

West Auckland is home to a dozen wineries producing Sauv Blanc, Pinot Noir, and the country’s most-awarded Chardonnay. Hiring a driver and visiting two wineries, including one for lunch, makes for an excellent day.

Kumeu River has been turning out award-winning Chardonnays since 1944. While the tasting room is small and simple, the wines are complex and impressive. There is a reason Kumeu River is one of renowned British critic Jancis Robinson’s favorite New Zealand wineries. Many of their wines have received scores well into the 90s from global critics.

The Hunting Lodge (15 minutes from Kumeu River) offers wine tastings, cocktails, great food, and live music on the weekends. Set among lush, hilly vineyards, The Lawn Bar and Cellar Door offers wine flights and casual fare. Choose from wood-fired pizzas, burgers, wraps and toasties, and a diverse menu of wines, plus cocktails, beer and non-alcoholic offerings. It’s a relaxed yet lively place that personifies the casual, fun-loving vibe that permeates New Zealand.

For a more elevated experience, head to The Restaurant across the lawn. Ask for a table on the wrap-around porch overlooking the vineyards. Slow-cooked lamb shoulder with the Hunting Lodge 2023 Lagrein from Marlborough was perfect.

Waiheke Island

Waiheke Island is another nearby wine paradise. The island is a 40-minute ferry ride from the Auckland harbor. Once you get off the ferry, buses and taxis can take you to your destination.

Te Motu Winery is a fine first stop for wine tasting and lunch, with views of the vineyards. Fresh-from-the-oven focaccia with confit garlic brown butter is a great start. Then treat yourself to house-cured pancetta and translucent slices of raw kawakawa fish dressed with Chardonnay vinegar. Larger plates include charred cabbage bathed in garlic-infused honey and saffron and sliced brisket with chimichurri. Do not sleep on the crispiest roast potatoes. Green salads feature leaves picked that morning from the nearby garden. 

To sip with lunch, try a zingy rosé of Merlot or a fun Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah blend. New Zealand doesn’t have all the rules that many wine regions have. This means that winemakers can go crazy, creating blends from whatever they desire, which makes for exciting tastings.

Goldie Estate is a don’t-miss stop on Waiheke Island. Founded by the Goldwater family in 1978, it’s the oldest winery on Waiheke. Today, it is run by American Leslie Posey Storm and her South African husband, Jann Heinrich Storm, who is the winemaker. 

The wines are top-notch, and range from Chardonnay and Viognier to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah. Goldie Estate has a charming hippie vibe that invites you to hang out and enjoy the wines.

Fun Fact: Goldie Estate has partnered with the University of Auckland as its Wine Science Center. They offer students hands-on experience making wine, running a winery, and working in a tasting room. 

Down to the South Island and the Mighty Marlborough

Within minutes of Blenheim Airport on the South Island is Fromm Winery. Now you’re smack in the midst of New Zealand’s largest wine region: Marlborough. This area is home to 70 percent of New Zealand’s wine production. It’s the beating heart of New Zealand’s famous Sauvignon Blanc. 

Yet at Fromm, we didn’t taste a single Sauv Blanc. Instead, we tasted their beautiful dry Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Malbec. (Fromm does not even produce Sauvignon Blanc, focusing instead on other varietals.) 

Fromm was founded by two Swiss immigrants, and the wines reflect their unique blend of European and Kiwi styles. Ask about their blind tasting experience, where guests wear blindfolds. When people can’t see the color of the wine, they use their senses of smell and taste to identify wines. It’s fun. 

Less than 10 minutes away is No.1 Family Estate, an all-sparkling house. The winery takes its name from the firstborn son of a French family. He brought his passion for methode traditionelle sparkling wines to New Zealand. The wines are impressive, and the tasting room and patio embrace a charming French aesthetic. 

Fishing, Foraging, and Feasting on the South Island

The coastal village of Kaikoura (an hour and 40 minutes south of Blenheim) is home to humpback and sperm whales. You’ll also find world-class deep-sea fishing and abundant parks and hiking trails here. You can hire a fishing boat in the morning, and cook your catch at Hapuku Kitchen, a nearby cooking school. 

Hapuku Kitchen is run by Fiona and Chris Sturgeon out of their beautiful home. Everyone will help create the feast, and there is a lovely selection of local wines to sip while you work.

From Kaikoura, consider taking the Coastal Pacific train from Kaikoura to Christchurch. The three-to-four-hour trip offers jaw-dropping views. You can also savor a four-star meal as you roll along, paired with local wines.

In Akaroa

From Christchurch, it’s a 90-minute drive to Akaroa, a small village on the Banks Peninsula rich in New Zealand history. 

Akaroa evokes the pages of glossy travel magazines with jaw-dropping views. It’s also where you can see Hector’s Dolphins. These are the world’s smallest dolphins, and a two-hour boat ride is a fun way to see them.

Ma Maison is a casual fine dining restaurant offering signature New Zealand dishes, including local Akaroa salmon. Rich and fatty, Akaroa salmon is similar to Ora King salmon, and makes fast friends with a local Pinot Noir.

Central Otago

A short flight carries you to Queenstown, the heart of the Central Otago wine region. This also is a mecca for outdoor sports. Bungee jumping originated here, and mountain biking, hiking, skiing, and kayaking are popular.

Central Otago is also a wonderful wine destination. Kinross is a wine collective with an on-site restaurant and cellar door featuring wines from four producers. The property also has 14 cottages situated among the vineyards, making for a scenic home base while exploring Central Otago. 

The Winery is an excellent stop for wine lovers, with locations in Queenstown and Arrowtown. The Winery stocks 1,000 New Zealand wines by the bottle and more than 50 wines by the taste or glass. One swaps a credit card for a tasting card, and you can dispense whatever your heart desires into your glass. There is a delicious menu of cheeses, charcuterie, and other small plates to nibble with your wines.

Mora Winery is another appealing spot for lunch or dinner. With a spacious patio and warm New Zealand hospitality, you can taste a range of Mora wines. These wines are only sold at the restaurant, and they are happy to help you ship a case home. The chef will prepare a feast of locally sourced meats and fresh vegetables.

New Zealand’s food and wine magic lies in its lack of pretension and its respect for the land. New Zealand embodies the farm-to-table concept as a way of life, and it shows in every sip and bite. While the food isn’t exotic, it’s delicious, and the local wines complement it well.

If You Go

Global Gourmands curates trips for individuals or small groups, based on personal interests. Owner Claudia Royston has a knack for fusing food, wine, and culture to create outstanding itineraries. She wants her travelers to feel like they’ve learned about a country while savoring the best food and drinks.

In Auckland, Rahul Siwach runs Hop In Cab, a car service and tour company. He can arrange airport transit and can also get you to and from wineries throughout West Auckland.

Wine Collective Direct sells and ships New Zealand wines worldwide. You can order from hundreds of wineries, and prices quoted include tax and shipping. Minimum purchase of six bottles per winery (share a case with traveling companions.)

Fifty-eight cents in U.S. currency will get you one New Zealand dollar. It’s one of the last places where the U.S. dollar goes farther. ATMs are plentiful. Tipping is not expected in restaurants or hotels.