The time I spent in Lafayette during October’s Festival Acadiens et Creoles, whetted my appetite to return to this charming small city, located in the heart of Acadiana — the part of Louisiana that’s east of Texas and west of New Orleans.
If you’re confused about the terms “Acadians” and “Creoles,” you’re not alone. Louisiana’s legislature coined the name Acadiana in 1997 to designate a 22-parish region of the state, with Lafayette at its heart. French-speaking inhabitants of the Canadian Maritime provinces, from an area known as Acadia, were some of the first inhabitants. Expelled from their northern homes by the British between 1755 and 1764 during the French and Indian Wars, some French-speaking groups settled in the region that became Maine, now home to Acadia National Park. Others made their way south to Louisiana. Over time “Acadian” morphed into “Cajun.”
The term “Creole,” meanwhile, was originally applied to children of early French residents in Louisiana to denote that they had been born in the New World. Later, the term became commonly used to distinguish the children of French immigrants who had intermarried with Spanish or African residents, or Native American Indians.
Cajun and Creole people both take pride in their distinctive language and culture — and you’ll find plenty of both in Lafayette.
What Is It About Lafayette?
Lafayette’s bicentennial was in 2023, so my visit was especially well-timed to experience the vibrant lifestyle and welcoming spirit of this city. Lafayette has certainly learned how to party and how to treat visitors during its 200-year history.
Sometimes called the “Happiest City in America,” Lafayette holds one of the largest Mardi Gras celebrations outside New Orleans. Then, in April, Festival International de Louisiane attracts visitors from around the world for a five-day music celebration. The raucous Festivals Acadiens et Creoles is held each October.
But, one doesn’t have to visit during a festival to be enchanted by the food, music, and spirit of this smallish city. There’s plenty to do any time of the year.
Like New Orleans, Lafayette is known for good food, good music, and good times.
What to Do in Lafayette
Follow the city’s food trails — from a “plate lunch trail” to gustatory deep dives into gumbo and Po’boys. Feast on crawfish in season, and Cajun or Creole specialties like jambalaya and etouffee all year round. Visit a thriving food truck park for fried shrimp, alligator bites or fried boudin. Enjoy traditional soul food eateries or stop at popular grab-and-go food outlets. Don’t ignore the great street food — from oysters to boudin balls to beignets. You’ll find it all in Lafayette, especially at festivals and special events.
(L-R, above) The cathedral spire towers over the site.; Blooming flowers add spice to the downtown; Art and nature collide in this city. ©Adrienne Cohen
But it’s not all about the food. You’ll find historic buildings, dramatic public art, pocket parks with fountains and greenery, historic buildings, and a wealth of small shops and friendly owners. Not far from downtown, the beautiful Cathedral of St. John the Evangelist is well worth a visit. The Roman Catholic Church occupies a seven-acre site containing the bishop’s residence and a historic cemetery. Stained glass produced in Munich, Germany, illuminates the interior of the Dutch Romanesque Revival structure.
Explore Downtown Lafayette
The city’s ornate archway beckons visitors to explore the walkable streets of the historic downtown. Stop into a shop to chat with a friendly owner, and don’t miss the striking outdoor murals.
Visit Unique Shops
We stopped by Wild Child Wine Shop to sample from their extensive wine selection. The multi-room retail space, inspired by wine shops in New Orleans and Paris, features hundreds of bottles, along with sitting rooms where you can sit and sip with friends. We browsed the wine selections and interesting gift items. Then, after chatting with Katie Culbert, who owns Wild Child with her husband Denny, we accepted the offer of “to-go” cups so we could explore the open shops of Downtown Lafayette on a Friday evening. What fun!
Eating in Lafayette
With more than 140 restaurants within its boundaries, it’s possible to satisfy any food cravings. You can find nearly any kind of food, whether you want a quick breakfast or a “top-drawer” dinner entree. At Spoonbill, a former Conoco Station, we sat at outside tables on a clear, warm night. The extensive wine and cocktail menu satisfied our thirst.
Funky and Fun
Appetizers meant to be shared include crispy duck tenders and ginger chili cauliflower. It’s food anyone could love, with a creative Cajun/Creole twist. We moved on to entrees with local spice — seared tuna, BBQ shrimp, and fish or shrimp tacos. Sharing house specialties is half the fun.
Lunch and Music
One afternoon, just for the fun of it, we visited Bayou Teche Brewing Company just outside the city to rest our feet, satisfy our hunger, quench our thirst, and lift our spirits.
(L-R, above) Chicken cracklins, pickles and creamy dip; Cool drinks on a warm day! All good; Imaginative toppings make for great pizza. ©Adrienne Cohen
An Italian-Cajun Mix
Another evening we enjoyed a wine-tasting experience at Romancelli Bistro e Vino. This modern family-owned eatery in the River Ranch neighborhood offers pizza cooked in a true wood-burning oven, in addition to innovative Italian entrees with a Cajun twist. Inventive appetizers are scrumptious, and the chocolate layer cake for dessert is the ultimate temptation. And the wine! Our knowledgeable wine steward suggested four wines to complement our dinner choices, and all were pleasant.
(L-R, above) Pasta with red sauce and Cajun spice; Cajun spices add unique zest to pasta; This might be the best chocolate cake ever! ©Adrienne Cohen
If it sounds like all we did in Lafayette was eat and drink, be assured that we learned a lot as well. But being in the city during a festival does put you in a party mood!
Embrace Lafayette’s Culture
Immerse yourself in local history at the Vermilionville Living History Museum. You’ll want to spend a good part of your day there.
The amazing history of the early Acadian settlers is brought to life at Jean Lafitte Acadian Cultural Center. Their traditions survived and were transformed through repeated displacements and migrations. Acadian language and traditions still color life in this part of Louisiana, enriched by an influx of Caribbean and African culture, food, music, and celebrations.
Stop in at a free jam session with local music makers. Then, marvel at the vibrant street art as you stroll through Lafayette’s compact downtown. Talk with vendors offering samples of their goods at the weekly Saturday Farmers Market adjacent to Moncus Park.
Retro Sweet Shoppe
As a special treat, grab a late-night milkshake or banana split at the only surviving Borden’s Ice Cream Shoppe in the United States.
Party Late into the Night
We joined the crowd at Blue Moon Saloon to groove to Cajun and Zydeco music. The lively music helped us dance away some calories after a full day of food and drink. I am sure that strains of music drifted through the neighborhood until the wee hours at this popular honky-tonk.
Drinks to Go
I’ve been in a lot of fast-food drive-through lanes over the years. But drive-through daiquiris? Yes, really! We parked and went inside to make our selections from wall-posted menus. We were even offered samples before we ordered. Then, we returned to our van for the full drive-through experience! Note: It’s against the law to insert a straw in your “go cup” before you park your vehicle!
Learn About Boudin
Finally, you can’t visit Lafayette without sampling boudin! It’s THE local treat. Traditionally, it’s made from pork, pork liver, rice, and distinctive seasonings, all stuffed into a natural pork casing. Today, however, you’ll find variants. Some include chicken, rabbits, or even alligators, and you can also find shrimp and crawfish boudin. But, be sure to try the traditional. You can’t miss it, but you wouldn’t want to. Simple steamed links are served in many ways. Fried boudin balls are akin to fritters. Or you can spoon boudin from its casing and spread it on crackers. Eat boudin for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, or have it as a midnight snack. Everyone seems to have a personal favorite.
Lafayette’s Boudin Trail boasts more than 50 stops throughout the city and its surrounds. Local festivals are opened with a “cutting the boudin” ceremony, comparable to a ribbon cutting. And then everyone gets to try a piece of boudin!
And speaking of local specialties, while you’re in the area, don’t miss an opportunity to tour the McIlhenny family estate, home of Tabasco Sauce, on nearby Avery Island.
Explore the Swamp
Lafayette is near the Gulf Coast and is geographically part of the expanding Mississippi Delta region. It’s just a short drive from the largest natural wetlands and swamps in the nation. Outdoor enthusiasts flock to the area for hunting, fishing, and camping in addition to sightseeing. If you’re visiting Lafayette, you won’t want to miss it.
The Atchafalaya National Heritage Area is known as “America’s Foreign Country.” A trip through the Atchafalaya Basin is a dramatic experience. Choose an exciting tour by fast-moving airboat. Or, drift lazily along with a knowledgeable guide on an eco-friendly flat-bottomed boat. Either option is both fun and educational.
A Rich and Diverse Region
The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers controls the water level of the wetlands as part of an ongoing effort to regulate Mississippi River Commerce. The day we visited, the water level was eight feet below normal. The swamp is home to 250 known species of birds, including a large concentration of bald eagles. There are at least 100 species of fish, aquatic animals, and mammals that inhabit the wetlands, even black bears.
The Atchafalaya Basin is approximately 20 miles wide and 150 miles long, extending over an area of 1,400,000 acres. It is larger than the Florida Everglades. The wetlands comprise swamp, marshes, estuaries, and bayous, and the largest bottomland hardwood forest in North America. Our guide, Skip Andaya, directed our attention to the stumps of ancient cypress trees above the water line, standing like guardians over the resident wildlife.
At one point, he spotted an alligator, calling it by name to come closer! He pulled up near fishing boats and greeted the fishermen by name. “We’re all family here,” Skip told us.
We learned how local fishermen expertly spread their nets and drop their traps. They all reported bountiful catches that day. At times, “flying fish,” a type of large carp, splashed us as we passed. We saw scores of egrets, cranes, and other nesting birds. And resident alligators prowled unfazed through the water.
Would I go again to the Atchafalaya Swamp? In a minute.
Lafayette Travel sponsored my visit to Lafayette.
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Read more about my travels at Write Off Main and Good Food and Faraway Places.
