The Greek island of Paros, in the heart of the Aegean Sea, was somewhat quiet during my May visit. But the locals and shop owners I spoke with were already bracing for the yearly influx of summer visitors to their island.
“Lots of traffic,” was the phrase they used over and over, hinting at the looming reality of summer over-tourism. It seemed this island destination, with a population of 13,000, was at a crossroads of sustainable travel.
It’s a dilemma echoed in countless destinations globally, where the allure of tourism clashes with the desire to preserve local culture and the environment. That thought nagged me as I roamed Paros’ hypnotically beautiful cobblestone streets during my visit.
Four Days in Paros, Greece
My four day stay on Paros began when the ferry arrived at the port in Parikia. I rolled my carryon about a half mile down a bumpy stone sidewalk to the Apollon Boutique Hotel. This centrally located spa-like option is just steps from Livadia Beach.
The crisp white exterior and earth-toned accents set the tone for a relaxing stay. From ocean breezes on my balcony and a rainfall shower in the bathroom, my island getaway began. I took many of the hotel attendant’s suggestions for the best places to dine and explore during my stay.
Fine Dining Along the Sea
After my four hour ferry ride from Athens to Paros, I was excited to take a walk along the beach and enjoy a seaside dining experience. As luck would have it, the hotel attendant recommended a newly opened restaurant just a few blocks from the hotel.
First I enjoyed a pre-dinner walk toward Krios Beach and Chapel of Agios Fokas, as far as the sand allowed me to go. During high season, this stretch of beach would be much more crowded. In May, it felt as if I had the island to myself. I suppose this is one of the perks of traveling during the shoulder season. Plus, off-peak travel results in favorable pricing on things like lodging and airfare. It also spaces out the impact that tourism can have on a popular location.
Mario Restaurant in Livadia
As the sun dipped below the horizon, I found myself at Mario Restaurant.
Mario’s promised to be a “Mediterranean experience overlooking the Cycladic sea” and that’s exactly what I got. After 18 years operating from the other side of the island in Naoussa, the owners opened this location in Livadia about a month before my visit.
The open-air patio, decorated with hues of soft gray and bougainvillea vines that framed the views of the sea, provided a romantic setting. The wine list featured Greek selections and the menu was filled with locally sourced ingredients. Some ingredients came from the restaurant’s own farm, and some from the bounty from the sea.
The meal was exquisite, as I followed my server’s recommendations. I started with white wine and a salad made from marinated zucchini with avocado, Arseniko cheese from Naxos, and citrus dressing. The meal progressed to red wine and a fresh tuna filet paired with Hunkar Begendi sauce, a smoked eggplant puree and a touch of yogurt.
Of course, I had to finish the meal with their signature dessert: bitter chocolate ganache with caramelized white chocolate, honeycomb, and vanilla-tonga ice cream.
I even had the opportunity to talk with Chef Markoulis Giannis. Like many entrepreneurs launching a new venture, he had a glimmer of hope in his eyes. He shared his excitement about opening the restaurant on this quieter side of the island. I’m happy to count myself among the first of many to dine in the new location.
A Short Hop to Antiparos
The next morning, I walked into Parikia for a cup of coffee at Ragoussis Bakery, where school-aged kids stop by on their way to class to pick up a pastry.
I wandered the quiet narrow streets lined with inviting boutique store fronts. Striking up a conversation with one owner, I commented about how serene the town was. She smiled and agreed, but also shared concerns about the impending seasonal traffic. This, she said, transformed her little home into something very different. While lamenting about how long it would take her to get to work, she also acknowledged it was good for business.
She shrugged, and then told me that I must take the ferry to Antiparos Island. I got the sense she was nostalgic about how Parikia once enjoyed a bit of anonymity.
It seemed my day plans were starting to unfold.
My hotel attendant gave me some options to get to the Antiparos and I chose to rent an ATV. A short time later my backpack was secured in the vehicle’s storage compartment, helmet on, gas tank topped off, and I was cruising along the roadway toward Pounda to catch the 10-minute ferry ride to Antiparos.
I was told that actor Tom Hanks has a home on Antiparos. One glimpse of the town by the ferry drop-off led me to understand why. It has a discerning collection of tavernas, restaurants, and shops carrying clothing and decor created by local artisans, but no Hollywood glitz. Exactly the sort of place you go to melt into something beautiful and authentic.
As lovely as it was, my primary goal was to explore and find a secluded beach.
Cave of Antiparos
Venturing about six miles south of the port on a paved road, I discovered the Cave of Antiparos. Some believe it’s one of the oldest caves in Greece. The cave is guarded by Agios Ioannis Spiliotis (Saint John of the Cave), an 18th century church.
Once inside, you’ll descend over 400 steps to the bottom of the cave. You’ll marvel at stalagmites and stalactites hanging overhead like unfinished measures of time. Along the stairway, you can make out carvings and graffiti in the rock dating back to 1673, when the Marquis de Nointel held mass on what looked like a natural altar. He declared in stone that “Here Christ himself celebrated Midnight Mass on Christmas 1673.” If you know where to look, remnants of that inscription can still be seen today.
Then, it was on to the beach.
Seafood Fresh from the Waters
I heard the clanking before I saw them. Along the dirt road leading to Agios Georgios (St. George) Beach, an ancient Greek man guided a herd of goats across the road. I stopped to enjoy the sight as nearby cows and roosters added to the rural charm.
I was delighted to find Mpakas Fish Tavern at the end of the road. Sitting down at a brightly painted rustic wooden table at the edge of stunningly clear water, I was inspired by the fresh fish drying naturally in the sun. I ordered a small plate of octopus and a glass of wine to enjoy slowly before walking to a secluded spot in the sand for an afternoon nap.
The Bus to Lefkes
Back on the Paros for day three, the traditional village of Lefkes was next on the list. I chose to experience public transportation to get there because it alleviates traffic congestion, a vital consideration in high-season. So while May is considered off-season, I wanted to know if bus transportation was a viable option other times of the year. My opinion? It’s a comfortable way to get around the island.
Lefkes is the former capital of Paros. In some ways, it is untouched by time; in other ways, you see the underpinning of energy as local businesses and restaurants open their doors to throngs of visitors hoping to get a sense of a unique Cycladic village vibe.
In fact, I struck up a conversation with one man who was busy painting a soon-to-open restaurant. Actually, he was busy greeting friends and family who drove by to wave and call out hello; his nephew was doing most of the painting.
In addition to the friendly people, you will be taken in by the beauty of Lefkes. The fragrant scent of spring flowers leads you to little cafes and outdoor seating to enjoy a beer or coffee, depending on the time of day. From the Church of the Holy Trinity, I enjoyed sweeping valley views. Then, a walk through the cemetery with marble headstones carved with artwork worthy of the most famous museums.
Walk the Historic Byzantine Path
A trailhead for the Historic Byzantine Path is accessed from Lefkes. Paros has over 21 miles of marked trails and by hiking, you can see more than you can by car. It’s a sustainable and enjoyable way to travel.
From Lefkes, you can walk to villages such as Prodromos or Marpissa. Check the bus schedule in advance to plan your day if you want to be dropped off in one location and picked up in another. Be aware of weather, as the summer months are hot.
100 Cats and Church Doors
Paros, like many Greek islands, is home to a lot of cats, and a lot of churches. The cats on Paros are well-cared for, even though they seem to have no owner in particular. Plus, I never saw a single rat. Coincidence?
Funding the Work of Local Animal Shelters
The local organization PAWS works tirelessly on Paros, Greece to care for the island’s feline population. While it’s partly funded by the government, it frequently relies on the time and treasure of volunteers.
One concern expressed during my visit was the amount of funds needed to support their efforts to spay and neuter cats before spring mating season.
Contributing to local initiatives that inspire you when you travel is just one way to travel better as we roam the planet.
The Church of Panagia Ekatontapiliani and Byzantine Museum
On my last day in Paros, I visited Panagia Ekatontapyliani, located a half-mile walk from the hotel.
The tradition around this commanding stone building is that Katapoliani has 99 visible doors and one secret door. The 100th door will open when the church of Hagia Sofia in Constantinople becomes Orthodox again.
The church we see today is the result of restoration efforts that began in 1959, led by Anastasios Orlandos. His goal was to restore the church to its Justinian form after centuries of destruction from raids and looting by occupying forces, and the earthquake of 1733.
Don’t Miss the Byzantine Museum
There is no fee to walk the grounds and the main church. However, a small fee of 3 euros gives you access to the Byzantine Museum and the area beyond the red velvet rope. This access leads to the ceremonial Baptistery and a set of narrow steps to the upper walkway, or catwalk, inside the church. Both are worth the price of admission.
Artifacts in the museum include bibles that are hundreds of years old. Yellowed pages hold thousands of years of history, wisdom, and stories. Imagine the time and patience it took for a scribe armed with nothing more than a feathered pen and a vessel of ink, to create perfectly level sentences, one by one, without error.
The Baptistery is a cavernous stone structure with tall dome ceilings set with colored rectangular stone. The focal point is the baptismal font shaped like a cross with three arched windows above letting light stream into the room.
Then, there are the faithful. This is a spot for pilgrimage. Sitting quietly, you can observe people and their personal spiritual journeys. They make the sign of the cross, kiss the images of saints, light candles, gently rub a string of wooden beads, or sit in one of the straight-backed wooden chairs to whisper their prayers to their God.
The whole scene gives you a sense of understanding, or perhaps more questions, as to why the churches and Greece are so connected.
The Two Faces of Tourism in Paros
While tourism breathes life into local economies, over-tourism can strain resources and erode the very charm that attracts visitors. Paros residents expressed concerns of summer tourism and the crowds it brought to their island. At the same time, understanding the opportunities created by those visitors.
So how can we visit places like Paros, Greece without contributing to the problem?
Off or Shoulder Season Travel
Like many popular destinations, visiting during off-peak season can be good for you and for the community you’re visiting. I enjoyed mostly open roads and less congestion than during the summer months.
Cruise Travel Concerns
Some Paros residents were concerned that depositing thousands of eager tourists on the island for a few hours would have more negative effects than benefits. Their perception was that cruisers were more likely to enjoy the food already paid for on the ship, rather than what was offered by local restaurants. A little trinket might be purchased, but the true island experience would be missed. To offset those concerns, cruisers can be intentional about contributing to the local economies. Additionally, rather than booking travel on a mega-ship, you can consider smaller ships that reduce the number of visitors deposited to the port.
Keeping the Sea Healthy
More people means more use of natural resources. And for a place that is surrounded by the sea, and whose economy relies, in part, on the abundance from the sea, it’s natural to want to protect its health. Find out how little things you do (or don’t do) can help the ecosystem thrive. For example, use ocean-friendly sunscreen, put your litter in the trash/recycling bins you find around Paros, and avoid single use plastics, when possible.
Be Kind, Be Curious
How we travel through this beautiful world matters. By approaching new experiences with kindness and curiosity, we open ourselves to transformative journeys that naturally align with sustainable practices.
Paros Island, with its stunning landscapes, warm hospitality, and rich history, is more than a vacation destination. It’s an opportunity to reflect on our role as travelers in an interconnected world.
With every trip we take, we get to decide both where we will go, and how we can positively impact the people and places we meet along the way. We must understand that people in the communities we visit may have mixed feelings about how tourism, in general, affects their home. Being mindful of how we travel, having the intention of leaving a place better than we found it, and certainly not worse, respecting local traditions, and engaging with the community ensures that the magic that draws people to Paros Greece today remains vibrant for future generations.
If You Go
When to Travel
Peak season runs from mid-June to early September. The weather is hot and beaches are crowded, but the water is refreshing. The shoulder seasons are late April through mid-June, and mid-September through October. Sightseeing and hiking are great during these months, though the water is a little colder. Many businesses and restaurants close for a few months during winter. Be sure to check ahead if winter travel is on your list.
Booking Your Hotel
I booked my room through Airbnb. But if you book directly with the hotel you may get a slightly better rate.
Getting There
I download the Ferryhopper app to book all my transportation to and from the islands. The ferries are more like mini cruise ships and very comfortable. I paid a bit more for an assigned seat to enjoy the 4+ hour trip from the Athens Port at Piraeus to Paros, Greece. Onboard, you will find a lounge, several snack options, and the ability to walk around the ferry.
On my return trip I booked a one way trip from Tinos Island to Athens Rafina Port. I then took the public bus from the port to the Athens airport. There is a booth to purchase your bus ticket at the port; the travel time to the airport was less than 30 minutes.
Communication
While most of the signage around Paros is in Greek, everyone I encountered spoke English so communication was easy. Road signs were fairly good and if you do get off track while driving, fear not. You are on an island, so if you make enough right turns, you’re certain to get back to where you started. *wink
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