My journey into the world of wine began at a tender age, a result of my unique upbringing as a first-generation American with French immigrant parents. My father, a true wine connoisseur, maintained a remarkable wine cellar that never failed to captivate me. I can still recall my first taste of wine, a heavily diluted red, at the age of two. This early introduction sparked a passion for wine that has remained a constant in my life.
My family’s strong ties to France — we were the only family members to immigrate to the U.S. — shaped my life. We remained deeply connected to our French heritage through frequent visits to France, which kept us closely bonded to our extended family there.
One of my cousins owns vineyards in the beautiful south of France. It is a hobby for him, but it is one he is passionate about. He takes great pride in providing his grapes to the wine cooperative, Mas Olivier Winery, and often speaks about the quality of the wine produced there. Considering how discerning his palate is, that says a lot.
It Was Time to Head to France
After hearing about his vineyards, I realized it was high time to embark on a journey and experience them firsthand. Since I’m co-owner of a travel blog and a freelance journalist, it was a fantastic opportunity to capture and share our adventures with readers. My cousin kindly offered to set up a visit with the wine cooperative to get an in-depth tour of their process and sample their wines.
Accompanied by my colleague and business partner, Ryan, we were filled with enthusiasm to delve into and savor a new and thrilling wine experience. We also had a lot of homework to do so we could ask thoughtful and knowledgeable questions. Throw in the language barrier, and we knew we had some challenges ahead of us. My first language was French, but it is pretty rusty from the speaking perspective and definitely not up to date on wine lingo. My cousin kindly came along, which assisted us enormously.
A Rich Historical Tapestry
Located in the southern Languedoc region of France, Mas Olivier Winery is a tribute to the region’s rich viticultural legacy. Situated in the lovely Languedoc-Roussillon area within the renowned Faugères Appellation, Mas Olivier is known for producing wines that do an impressive job of capturing the terroir of this historically significant wine region. The Faugères is a small appellation that is allowed only five red grape varieties and six white varieties per the rules of the AOP Faugères. Mas Olivier Faugères is the only cooperative and accounts for half the production of the entire AOP.
The very name “Mas Olivier” is a testament to the region’s agricultural legacy. “Mas” is a term used for a traditional house and farm in Provence. It is a symbol of rural life and farming in southern France. At the same time, “Olivier” is a nod to the olive trees that dot the Mediterranean landscape. This fusion underscores the winery’s ties to its origins and the land it nurtures.
The story of Mas Olivier Winery reflects the resilience of a group of local winemakers. In the late 1950s, they formed a cooperative to improve wine quality and ensure a sustainable future for the community. Against difficult odds and resistance, this cooperative evolved into a beacon of traditional winemaking practices in a world of mass production.
Overcoming the Region’s Stigma for Mass Production
We were fascinated by the history of the region and how it impacts Mas Olivier to this day.
The Industrial Revolution was a turning point for the Faugères wine region, bringing about significant changes to traditional winemaking practices. While it boosted economic growth, it also led to the decline of conventional methods and the loss of unique winemaking practices that had been upheld for generations. At the time, workers were often paid with bottles, drinking several bottles of wine per day. It is hard to imagine how they functioned so well with that much wine intake.
It does make sense in many aspects. Alcohol was often safer to drink than water, which was frequently contaminated. Red wine, like other alcoholic beverages, provided a safer alternative and added calories to the diet, which converted to energy for the workers. Alcohol served as both a stimulant and a relaxant as well. After long hours of labor, workers used it to unwind and reduce their stress levels.
The shift towards mass production and automation resulted in standardized wine, neglecting the distinct characteristics of the terroir. Additionally, the prioritization of quantity over quality led to the disappearance of small-scale producers.
Trying to Rise Above Trends
With the area known for its mass production, Mas Olivier has been challenged to stand on its own. The primary differences between mass-produced wines from the Faugères region and those from Mas Olivier Winery lie in their production methods, wine characteristics, and market positioning. While mass-produced wines offer affordability and consistency, Mas Olivier’s wines provide a more authentic expression of the terroir.
Because of the history of mass-produced wines from this region, Mas Olivier has had to keep its prices lower, as the buying public is skeptical of what the Faugères region can produce. In the process, the consumer gets a higher-quality wine at an excellent price. We were surprised to see the prices in the store; getting such quality for such a low price is rare.
The Terroir: A Confluence of Natural Elements
During our visit, we were struck by the collective’s dedication to creating wines that authentically represent the region’s terroir. Terroir refers to the unique combination of soil, climate, and topography that gives the wine its distinct character. Mas Olivier is situated in the Faugères appellation, where the soil is 100 percent shale, also known as schist. This bedrock is porous and leads to infertile soil; the vine’s roots need to travel deep to find nutrients and water to survive. The crystalline rock has layers of minerals that can flake off easily yet retain enough heat to produce big, powerful wines rich in minerality and robust flavor.
The climate in this part of France is typically Mediterranean, characterized by hot, dry summers and mild winters. There is also more wind and higher altitude in the Faugères region. Our visit was in late May, and to our dismay, it rained the whole time. The usual ample sunshine and minimal rainfall typical of the region’s growing season create ideal conditions, allowing the grapes to ripen fully while retaining their natural acidity. Additionally, the cooling breezes from the nearby Mediterranean Sea help moderate temperatures, preventing excessive heat stress on the vines.
Their attention to detail in vineyard management and wine-making results in wines with greater structure, balance, and aging potential.
Winemaking Philosophy: Tradition Meets Innovation
Touring wineries is not new to us; we have done so for decades. This experience was very educational because of the detail and access provided to us. We did not merely look at pictures but physically toured every aspect of the process, from vineyards to bottling. Accompanying us throughout the day were the Director of the Cooperative, the winemaker, and some vineyard owners. They committed to answering all our questions with the most knowledgeable people they could have present. The organic vineyard owner, who is also the president of the cooperative, came to spend the day with us despite his busy schedule.
Our full-day visit began in a historical building dating back to the 1950s, where the wine is made. It is dated on the outside but modernized where it matters. They are proud to have retained this historical element of their past.
We then moved to their bottling and shipping facility, which was actively churning away at bottling. We were intrigued by the automation of the process. Watching the process was an especially fun part of our day.
Our final stop, which also allowed us to dry off due to the rain, was the tasting room, where we were excited to “pick their brains.” There were lots of questions answered, fun conversation, and laughter. My French was rusty, but I got by, and Ryan picked up a lot of French that day.
Organic Vineyards
Sustainable farming practices are prioritized in the vineyards. We met one vineyard owner who had organic vineyards. His commitment was impressive despite the added cost, risk, and work required. There is a tricky balance of organic and biodynamic principles to maintain soil health and promote biodiversity. This includes the use of cover crops, composting, and minimal intervention to ensure that the vines grow in harmony with their environment. The reality is the market calls for it, and the wine industry is responding in kind.
What is Carbon Maceration? Learning Something New
Carbon (or carbonic) maceration is used to produce red wines. The process occurs when intact bunches of red grapes, hand-picked and transported in small quantities, are fermented in an unsealed vat that is saturated with carbon dioxide. These intact berries, which need to be perfect, begin an intracellular fermentation process from their own enzymes, during which some alcohol is produced, along with a range of other compounds that can give the wine flavor.
Once the alcohol level reaches around 2 percent, the intra-cellular enzymes are deactivated. As the intracellular fermentation progresses, the grapes release juice, which undergoes fermentation within the intact berries. Typically, the grapes are pressed before this happens.
Normal fermentation then commences (carried out by yeasts), resulting in intensely purple colors with lively fruit flavors, soft tannin levels, and a distinctive aroma profile. This all leads to a more expressive and complex wine. After trying some of the wines made using this technique, we were very impressed and will look for more wines made with carbonic maceration.
At Mas Olivier, they are proud of the wines they make using this process. The grapes they use in the carbonic maceration process are Syrah and Carrigan varieties. Only about 14 percent of the cooperative’s production is made with this method.
The Mas Olivier Wines: A Diverse Portfolio
After an extensive tour and a detailed exploration of their winemaking process, the moment to savor the wine arrived. This part can be tricky; what if we find the taste disagreeable? Palates vary, and it’s perfectly acceptable to express when a wine doesn’t suit our preferences.
But there was also a family connection here as my cousin owns one of the vineyards they source from. It seems that could lead to bias, but in the case of my cousin, he never held back his opinion on wine. I brought him a special U.S. Willamette Valley Pinot Noir as a gift. Though we did enjoy that bottle, he said it was well past its prime. I appreciated the honest opinion, and he would expect no less of me.
Mas Olivier Winery’s wines have won numerous medals at events such as “Concours Général Agricole” in Paris and the “Concours des Grands Vins” de France at Mâcon. During our visit, we were able to sample an extensive range of wines from their collection. The wines complemented the regional food perfectly, creating a fantastic pairing experience — though Ryan was challenged to try the sea snails, which were really good, by the way.
Red Wines
Red wines are the cornerstone of Mas Olivier’s production, particularly the Faugères appellation, renowned for its full-bodied and aromatic reds. Reds account for about 70 percent of the Faugères AOP production (whites 5% and roses 25%). The primary grape varieties used include Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, and Mourvèdre. These wines are known for their deep color, rich aromas of black fruits, herbs, and spices, and well-structured tannins.
The Mas Olivier is an excellent example of the quality that can come from the Faugères appellation. The wine is 45 percent Syrah, 30 percent Old Carignan, 20 percent Grenache, and 5 percent Mouvèdre. Vinification is via carbonic maceration (Syrah, Carignan) and has a long fermenting period (Grenache, Mourvèdre). Then, the wine is aged for six to eight months in French oak barrels. The color is a deep cherry red. The nose offers soft aromas of spices and pepper blended with slight hints of coffee. The palate lifts lovely lingering woody notes. The red fruits blossom on the palate while revealing soft tannins.
White Wines
Though less common than reds, Mas Olivier’s white wines are equally impressive. The winery produces whites primarily from Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, and Vermentino. These wines are typically fresh and aromatic, with flavors ranging from citrus and stone fruits to floral and mineral notes. Based on the direction of the market, they are shifting toward producing more white wines, with some of the vineyard owners replacing their red vines with white-producing ones.
Mas Olivier 2022 Expression is made with Roussanne 60 percent, Marsanne 15 percent, Vermentino 15 percent, and Grenache Blanc 10 percent, grown in 100 percent Schists soil. Grapes are harvested early in the morning to capture freshness and prevent oxidation. The most expressive French oak barrels are selected to end the alcoholic fermentation that lasts at least six months. The color is yellow gold with fruity notes such as flowers, peach, and verbena on the nose. The palate is bright, delicate, and elegant.
Rosé Wines
Rosé wines have surged in popularity in recent years, and Mas Olivier has enthusiastically embraced this trend. Made predominantly from Grenache and Cinsault, the winery’s rosés are noted for their bright color, fresh fruit flavors, and refreshing acidity.
The Mas Olivier Faugères Rosé wine, which has no sulfites, is 60 percent Cinsault and 40 percent Grenache. It is vinified at a low temperature and then blended post-fermentation. The color is pale peach. The nose has vibrant strawberry and floral notes with hints of guava. The palate offers some mild spiciness along with sweet berry fruits and ends with a dry mineral finish.
In the end, we were impressed with all the wines we tasted. We could not have been more appreciative of the effort that they made to pair the wine with the foods that would bring back its best features.
An Inspirational Leader at the Helm
During our visit, we had the pleasure of spending most of the day with Magali Palomares. She is a pioneer at the helm of this wine cooperative and has played a significant role in its growth and success. It was obvious the trust and respect the people we met that day had for Magali.
Mas Olivier Winery boasts an innovative tasting room known as Vilavigne Faugères, for which Magali deserves credit. A visit could quickly turn into a multi-hour affair, as it not only offers wine tastings from Mas Olivier but also showcases wines and products from other cooperative wineries, as well as liquors and beers. The tasting room’s setting provides expansive views of the vineyards and the distant Mediterranean Sea. It is not often you sit by vineyards with the sea as your background.
Exceeding Expectations and Bringing French Wines Home
Our visit to Mas Olivier Winery went beyond all our expectations. It shouldn’t have, though, as growing up in a French family, it is sort of how the French do things, with vigor and excitement.
We can see now why my cousin is proud that his vineyards are now part of the Mas Olivier cooperative. When you work to grow your grapes, you want the wine they produce to represent your effort. Of course, we purchased quite a few bottles to bring back to the States for ourselves. Ryan even had to buy a second checked bag to do so. We are excited to share these wines with our family and friends back home.
Mas Olivier Winery is an example of passion for wine in the historic landscape of southern French winemaking. Grounded in a commitment to tradition and terroir, Mas Olivier has resisted the region’s industrial history by promoting sustainable practices and artisanal craftsmanship. They have created a wide range of wines that not only showcase the richness of their surroundings but also appeal to a global audience seeking authenticity and quality. They have had great success in the Japanese market, and they are working to gain more exposure to the U.S. market.
If You Go
It was visiting family that brought us here, and though familiar with what France has to offer, we were still blown away by the region. The Languedoc-Roussillon region has so many things to do with its medieval cities, natural parks, and beautiful coastline.
During our visit, we spent time in the medieval cities of Avignon, Pezenas, Beziers, and Carcassonne. We wish we could say we had a favorite, but they all were unique and captivating. Our travels often took us to medieval settings, but we weren’t quite expecting to become so enamored with cities. Even in the pouring rain in Pezenas, we did not want to leave as we loved every moment.
One added plus in this region is that as you travel between each of these destinations, you will have many opportunities to do some more wine tasting. The area is packed with wine cellars, many of which are small, family operations and not as crowded as the more touristy wine regions of France.
The Pont du Gard near Avignon is a must when in this region. It was Ryan’s first visit here, and this feat of Roman engineering blew him away. It is a remarkably well-preserved aqueduct bridge that you can walk across. Its grand structure not only offers lovely views of the area but also provides a fascinating window into the region’s ancient history.
National Parks and the Sea
Nature lovers should make sure to spend time in the Cévennes National Park, which boasts spectacular viewpoints and hiking trails. The Camargue Regional Nature Park, with its marshlands and abundant wildlife, is a birdwatcher’s dream.
Finally, the Languedoc-Roussillon region’s coastline along the Mediterranean Sea offers the ideal setting for relaxation and beach activities. From the vibrant city of Montpellier to the sandy beaches of La Grande-Motte and the picturesque town of Collioure, visitors can enjoy the sun, sea, and delicious seafood.
With so much to do, we could easily have spent two weeks in this region. We will undoubtedly return for the setting, for family, and for more wine.
Les Crus Faugeres hosted our winery visit.
You might also enjoy reading:
- A guided tasting experience A Sense of Place: A Master Class in Wines of France’s Gigondas Region
- A visit to Spain’s Rueda Wine Region, the land of Castles
Read more from Joelle and Ryan at their travel blog Wanderers Compass
