A trip to a UNESCO biosphere reserve in Germany is a lesson in world heritage, local foods, and cultural traditions.
UNESCO biosphere reserves have always brought to mind magical places, parts of the world where time has stood still and old-world ways are still alive and well. When I had the opportunity to visit one on a recent trip to Germany, I jumped at the chance.
While I didn’t find fairies, dragons, or any other mythical creatures frolicking through the forest, I did find a place even more enchanting than I had dreamed of, one where time-honored traditions are maintained and nature is honored. Life takes a much simpler approach than it does in the fast-paced world of Los Angeles, which I call home.
What Exactly Is a Biosphere Reserve?
A biosphere reserve is a zone that has been internationally designated as a place where nature and local cultures are preserved in the practices of local businesses and the goods and products that are grown and produced within it.
Everything is done with the intention of preserving the heritage, traditions, and culture of a place and its people. Sustainable development is a priority, as are nature conservation, research, and education to promote that sustainable development. In short, it is a protected space where the balance between mankind and nature is preserved, protected, and nurtured.
Bliesgau Biosphere Reserve in Saarland
This balance is evident everywhere in the Bliesgau Biosphere Reserve, located within Germany’s youngest and smallest state, the Saarland. The scenery was awash in a mix of farms and forest, and I recalled picture books of fairytales I read as a child. The reason for the region’s nickname, “The Tuscany of the Saarland” was immediately clear. It was named a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 2009. Today, it is one of 16 such reserves in Germany.
Many places offer incredible vantage points for viewing the sweeping landscape, like the rooftop of the Studhaus Brewery building. This defunct brewery in the biosphere reserve town of St. Ingbert has been preserved in its original form to honor the region’s brewing history. From this rooftop, I could see for miles, beyond the charming town with its traditional German architecture and well into the extensive forest and gentle hills that make up the biosphere reserve.
But it isn’t just the landscape and brewing history that are integral to the region’s preservation. The foods and recipes found in the Bliesgau today are woven into its past and its future. Influences come from both German and French cultures. (The Bliesgau lies on the border Germany shares with France.)
From home cooks to restaurants, chefs within the Bliesgau pride themselves on using locally grown foods and organically. By using local products, they are working to preserve the recipes of the culture, the foods native to the area, and the health of its people.
A Warm Reception for Lunch
The day I visited the Bliesgau, my group was treated to a stop at MaLi’s Délices. The small shop sells marmalades, syrups, relishes, and cooking oils. Their products represent foods from a variety of cultures. All are made with locally grown organic ingredients whenever possible.
The owners, Christine and Yves Breyer, a mother-and-son duo, greeted us warmly. In their workshop, they make all of the products by hand in small batches.
Our hosts treated us to an incredible lunch. It started with a sampling of several of their popular dips and spreads, including a mango curry spread, a roasted eggplant dip, a wild garlic spread, bacon jam, and a carrot, pineapple, and chipotle pepper spread.
After we had tried our fill of handmade goodies spread on fresh, crusty bread, Christine brought out the main course. Handmade pasta showcased freshly made pesto sauce, one of the workshop’s most popular products.
Learning a Traditional Craft: Apple Marmalade
Once every bite of pasta was devoured, the real fun began. Christine and Yves invited us to the workshop to make a special recipe—an apple marmalade with a spice profile created for the holiday season. They put us to work after showing us around the workshop and reviewing the recipe and instructions.
We took turns peeling, coring, and chopping apples. They were then blended with a mixture of pectin, sugar, apple cider, marzipan, and rum-soaked raisins. Almonds, a special ingredient, were finely ground to add flavor rather than crunch. As the mixture cooked, we took turns stirring the concoction. The workshop was filled with the irresistible scent of warm apple pie. After cooking the mixture and filling what felt like hundreds of jars, we learned how to use a professional label maker. This turned our creation into a salable product.
After we had completed all the work, we did a little shopping. I couldn’t resist a few jars of cherry-chili jelly, chocolate sauce, and bacon jam. Christine and Yves also sent us on our way with an extra goodie bag. It was full of jars of the marmalade we made and a copy of the recipe.
Good Food, History, and Culture to Wrap Up the Day
Next came a relaxing van ride through the Bliesgau, past village after village of stone houses where no one seemed to be in a hurry.
We ended our journey at Landgasthaus Wintringer Hof, a charming inn and restaurant. The location once housed a sect of monks, who would eat their meager meals in the refectory. The building has long since been converted into a charming inn with a stellar restaurant. The property was designated a Bioland Farm in 1987. Meals are crafted from locally grown organic foods, and the owners take pride in employing locals with disabilities.
The church where the monks once worshiped is a small structure lovingly and painstakingly preserved and restored. It still stands and hosts small services and special events like weddings.
The church dates to medieval times. Its history was evident in the simple one-room design and rudimentary construction. But the real treat was when I wandered around the back of the church. Perhaps I was searching for the magical fairies I had once envisioned. Trees and wildflowers surrounded a small grass clearing. This created an ethereal backdrop for a list of names inscribed on the exterior wall of the building. Each name was a disabled local person who had a part in preserving this spectacular piece of the Bliesgau’s history.
©Eugenia Lazaris
Discovering the Saarland, Germany’s Youngest State
Germany consists of 16 states, some more well-known than others, such as Saxony or Bavaria. As a lifelong traveler and a travel writer by trade, I choose to visit every corner of the globe I can. The more remote and off-the-beaten path, the better.
I chose to visit the Saarland because, for lack of a better explanation, I had never heard of it before. That deeply intrigued me. Many people I have since encountered, some of whom have even lived in Germany at some point, haven’t heard of the Saarland either.
Perhaps it is so little known because the Saarland didn’t become a German state until 1957. Before that, it had a complicated history. Saarland bounced between being independent and occupied by France and Germany. While it remained in flux throughout history, it developed a rich cultural heritage that embodies German and French influences today.
One of the most enjoyable excursions I experienced in the Saarland was a stop in Blieskastel. It is also located within the Bliesgau Biosphere. I enjoyed delectable treats from the local sweet shop and a satisfying caffeinated beverage to fuel the day. I also had time to explore the town’s beautiful architecture and laid-back vibe.
Blieskastel is an “eatable city,” meaning they plant edible items throughout the city that are available for locals and visitors alike to try. As I wandered the main town square, I sampled delicious bites of fresh basil, mint, and even tiny tomatoes growing in planters placed periodically along the city’s sidewalks.
If You Go
The capital of the Saarland, Saarbrücken, is about a two-hour drive by car from Frankfurt, where visitors from across the globe can reach Germany by plane. It serves as the perfect base to explore all points of the Saarland, including the massive Bliesgau Biosphere Reserve.
For information: Visit Saarland
Thank you to the German National Tourist Office for hosting me throughout Saarland.
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Eugenia Lazaris writes about travel and food for a variety of publications. You can see her work at Freelance Writer – Eugenia Lazaris.
