Rochester, New York, also known as “the ROC,” makes it easy to get to know its liquid culture. Visiting some of the establishments, new and old, will teach you about the deep wine roots in the lake area, the termination of brewing in 1920, and today’s artisan eats and treats, all made by local producers.
But first, a story about one of its winemakers. Or two of them, to be precise.
Col and Seb Land on the ROC
Colleen jumped on a plane and landed in the Adelaide Hills of South Australia to work the grape harvest. Having left the Midwest corporate marketing world, she wanted to get her hands dirty in the world of wine from the ground up.
She landed at the family vineyard of a man named Sebastian. There, the romance between man, woman, and wine coalesced. The ultimate result was a marriage between an Aussie and a ROCer. Col and Seb now make wine on two continents, with one operation in Rochester.
Seb’s family had been making wine in Adelaide for six generations, so knowledge ran deep. After learning different aspects of the business, Col and Seb each brought their talents to Living Roots Wine when they opened in downtown Rochester in 2016. They did this to be near Col’s family, who had purchased a vineyard on one of the Finger Lakes around the same time.
Between the two operations, they make a wide selection of wines, many of them each year and some as one-offs. They can take advantage of two harvests a year, as the southern hemisphere harvests at the beginning of the year, while the northern hemisphere harvests in the fall.
In Rochester, you can expect to see rich whites, sparkling wines, bone-dry Riesling, and Session Rizz — a low-alcohol Riesling made in Finger Lakes. From their winery Down Under, you’ll find vibrant reds like Shiraz, Cabernet/Tannat blends, and Barbera from Adelaide Hills and McLaren Vale. Col and Seb spend nine months of the year in Rochester, presumably because two wineries are now operating in the area — one in downtown ROC, the other opened on Keuka Lake in 2023.
Living Roots Urban Winery and Tasting Room
The wood-planked open space is housed inside a walk-up brick warehouse-style building in the downtown Rochester arts district. Here, you can familiarize yourself with the wines Col and Seb craft on each continent. I highly recommend a visit when you’re in Rochester to easily taste the wide range of low-intervention options. (That means there are few or no additives, like commercial yeast, sugar, tannin, and acid).
Flight Wine Bar
If you’re lucky enough to enjoy the Riverie Canal Cruise based in the Corn Hill area of Rochester, take advantage of this popular wine bar right off the dock as you exit.
Flight Wine Bar offers something for every palate. If you can’t decide (and why should you?), there is a menu with at least 14 flights comprising smaller pours of three wines each.
I chose the “Corn Hill Fun” flight. It consisted of Domini Veneti Soave Classico and De Majo Norante Falanghina from Italy and Santa Julia La Oveja Torrontes Natural from Argentina. I was totally satisfied.
Charcuterie, ciders, beer, and plenty of non-alcoholic options abound. In this cozy social space, you could even do a flight of artisan olive oil dips and end with a decadent chocolate flight.
Genesee Brew House
Even if you are not a beer-head, this transformed packaging center is a must-stop in downtown Rochester. The multi-story Genesee Brew House space offers a bar, museum, gift shop, brewery, and restaurant.
As you wind your way through, take some time to soak up the space’s history, like the beginning of Standard Brewing Company and its abrupt end when Prohibition struck over 100 years ago.
However, you must head up to the roof to witness the trillions of gallons of water cascading over High Falls on the Genesee River. You will have a bird’s-eye view of what has to be one of the best city prospects anywhere.
The ROC also has its good ol’ American fare claim to fame: the infamous Garbage Plate. Here, it’s called the Dog Plate. Two hot dogs slathered in cumin-spiced meat sauce with onions, served over macaroni salad and French fries. When it’s delivered to your table, it’s obligatory to cover it in ketchup and mustard. Our hostess did just that in a cross-hatch pattern. It’s hamburgers, hotdogs, and fries, all on a single plate, for the desperately hungover set.
Red, White, and Brew of ROC
©BethEllen Clausen
Omar Chin’s mission of championing all things ROC charmed me. He hand-selects local New York products to offer guests at his community-oriented bar space and game room. You’ll notice local artists featured on the walls as well.
RW&B is located on the same block as City Hall. It offers a constantly rotating selection of beers, Finger Lake wines, ciders, and spirits. Of course, there are non-alcoholic options, like the delicious low-sugar Ginger Bear and kombucha.
Artisan snacks are also available, and if he has them, the “World Famous Peanut Butter Ball” is a must. You won’t want to share this mash-up of peanut butter, chocolate, and crispy rice.
Visit Rochester hosted the author.
BethEllen blogs at Organic Wine Travel.
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