Just outside the city of Rochester, New York, sits the town of Fairport, home of the Casa Larga Vineyard & Winery (CLV). The winery is officially part of the Finger Lakes AVA (American Viticulture Area), although it is not located on any of the region’s 11 lakes – it’s approximately 24 miles northwest of Lake Canandaigua (see map). Casa Larga Winery likes to be known as the “Gateway to the Finger Lakes.” It’s worth a visit either as a day trip from “the Roc” or as a starting point for a fuller exploration of the AVA’s 130 wineries.
Finger Lakes Wine Region: The “New Cool”
The Finger Lakes region, commonly known as FLX, is a cool-climate wine region in upstate New York. Per the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance, the region was established as an AVA in 1982. Most of its 130 wineries are small and artisanal operations. Approximately 9,300 acres of wine vines are planted. This cool climate area, like other areas such as Germany, Austria, and parts of Italy, produces wines that are generally lighter, crisper, and lower in alcohol than warm climate wines.
The bulk of these grapes in the FLX AVA are Concord. This American variety is mainly used for the production of grape juice and grape jelly. Some Concord grapes are also used to produce a sweet, juicy wine, often Kosher, that those used to European-style wine may find a bit cloying.
The second most common grape, and the one that most producers hang their hat on, is Riesling. On average, each producer makes two or three different styles of Riesling, from bone dry to sweet dessert wine.
Historically, FLX wineries, like nearly all other U.S. wine regions, have lived in the shadow of California, with its big-name (and high-priced) regions like Napa and Sonoma. Over the years, however, as some attention has shifted to cool-climate wines, FLX’s reputation as a producer of world-class wines has grown significantly. There are several reasons for this.
Vitis Vinifera Comes to FLX
Dr. Konstanin Frank planted Vitis vinifera grapes in the area in the 1970s, with positive results. Vitis vinifera is the species of vine from which most of the world’s wine is made. The fruit of such vines are both warm and cool climate grapes, such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Riesling. Many wine growers in the Finger Lakes followed Dr. Frank in removing their native American varieties, like Catawba and Labrusca, and replanting with European Vitis vinifera varieties, particularly Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc.
Other factors that led to the rise of FLX include the availability of inexpensive land and its location near bodies of water. While this upstate New York region tends to be on the cool side, the lakes moderate the climate of the surrounding vineyards and even prevent the vines from freezing in the normally cold and snowy winter season.
Riesling, the most planted Vitis vinifera in the FLX, has become a favorite of sommeliers in the last decade. This has helped put FLX Riesling on the map and into restaurants.
One winemaker at the International Food Wine Travel Writers Association conference held in September 2024 in Corning, New York, said he knows of a Paris wine bar that has a FLX Riesling and that FLX wines are getting attention in Austria and Germany, the home of Riesling.
Cool Climate Challenges
FLX wineries have challenges, too. In the winter, the region experiences snow and freezing temperatures, which can threaten the vines.
While wineries must prepare their vines for freezing conditions, this allows FLX wineries to make ice wines.
Ice Wines vs. Iced Wines
Healthy grapes that freeze on the vine are used to make ice wines. Regulations state that temperatures must be at 17.6 degrees Fahrenheit or below for grapes to qualify as ice wine grapes. (Grapes that are frozen after being picked can only be called “iced” wines.) Frozen grapes are usually picked at night to keep them out of the warming daylight sun. They are then pressed in a way that separates the water crystals from the high-sugar content juice. The resulting wines are high in sugars, acids, and aromatic compounds and are uniquely luscious and full-bodied.
FLX weather is quite variable, with little consistency from season to season. For instance, in some years, December can be warm with no freezing temperatures. This will push back ice wine grape harvesting to January, if at all. There is no guarantee that the weather will cooperate. Ice wine production is costly, labor-intensive, and highly unpredictable. At a panel discussion at the International Food, Wine, and Travel Writers Association conference, four winemakers said that seasonal variability keeps them on their toes and makes their work and wines unique. As one winemaker said, they always have their plans B and C ready.
Climate change is another challenge, but this can be a positive factor for FLX wine growers. As places like Napa and Sonoma heat up year after year, so does the FLX region. However, with overall cooler temperatures, Finger Lakes growers can now experiment with growing other warmer climate varieties.
Casa Larga: Inspiration from Deep Italian Roots
One of the closest wineries to downtown Rochester is Casa Larga Vineyard & Winery, the state’s 21st licensed winery. The Colaruotolo family owns and operates the winery situated on a picturesque hill in Fairport, New York.
Casa Larga Founded in 1974
Antonio Colaruotolo founded Casa Larga as a hobby winery in 1974. At 27, Antonio, aka “Mr. C,” immigrated to the U.S. from Gaeta, Italy with his brother and sister. After arriving in Rochester, he met his first-generation Italian wife, Antoinette, a native Rochesterian.
After earning a degree in architecture at the Rochester Institute of Technology, Antonio went on to develop a career in homebuilding. Part of a tract of land on which he built homes is now the winery’s location.
In Italy, the Colaruotolo family owned several farms. One farm, Casa Larga, grew the best grapes, so Antonio chose that name for his Finger Lakes winery to honor his grandparents.
Today, the winery has a large tasting room and event space. These are located in what was originally a garage on the property, which Antonio added to over the years. Andrea Colaruotolo O’Neill, Mr. C’s daughter and current winery marketing director, calls this the “Lego House.”
Mr. C bought the land from an older farmer who stipulated that nothing could be built on the land until after his death, so Antonio planted the vineyards first. The first grapes planted were non-Vitis vinifera American varieties, including Labrusca, Catawba, Concord, and Niagara. Around 1976, inspired by Dr. Frank’s research, Antonio tore out all of his plantings and replaced them with Riesling vines, eventually adding other Vitis vinifera varieties. The first vintage of Casa Larga was made in 1978 with Riesling, Chardonnay, and DeChaunac grapes.
Forty Acres of Grapes Produce 8,000 Cases Per Year
Casa Larga grows roughly 40 acres of grapes and produces 8,000 cases per vintage. For the past three years, all harvesting has been done by hand. The winery usually bought additional grapes from outside to make their wine, but Andrea says that in 2024, they did not need to do so, as they are now producing enough of their own.
Antonio’s two other children run the vineyard with Andrea: brother John, who is the Director of Winemaking, and sister Mary Jo, who is the Director of Accounting and IT.
The Casa Larga vineyards grow Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cab Franc, and Chardonnay. More esoteric grapes include Vidal (used to make ice wine), DeChaunac, and Muscat.
The DeChaunac grape produces a light-bodied, “Beaujolais-esque” red called Petit Noir, intended for consumption from 60 to 90 days after bottling. It’s a refreshing and easy-drinking wine with strawberry notes.
The Pallido estate white, a blend of Vidal Blanc, Riesling, and Muscat Ottonel grapes, is reminiscent of Pinot Grigio. Casa Larga’s founder, Andrew Colaruotolo, created it to recall the wines of his youth in Italy.
Casa Larga Has Produced Award-Winning Ice Wine
The winery’s ice wine has won many awards over the years.
Casa Larga’s tasting room is open seven days per week, and wine flights are a reasonable $15. Various food options are available, including elevated tastings paired with charcuterie. Wine slushies served during festivals held at the winery are a growing trend.
For instance, the Purple Foot Festival, now in its 30th year, attracts 600 visitors. During the fest, the winery offers pizza, sandwiches, and tractor rides. The winery also hosts the New York State Ice Wine & Culinary Festival every February, which attracts wineries from all over New York.
The winery’s website, www.casalarga.com, has the most up-to-date listings of events.
Thanks to Visit Rochester and Casa Larga Winery for hosting our visit.
Terry Nozick blogs about wine at truthnwine.net.
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