Philadelphia took me by surprise. I thought I knew what to expect: A big dose of American history, Benjamin Franklin everywhere, and some east coast urban gruff. Turns out Philly offers all of that and more. A lot more. The amount of art, food, and culture in this city is mighty.
Several distinct neighborhoods make it a diverse destination. From world-renowned chefs to a boozy trolley tour, there are plenty of reasons Philly is making Best in Travel lists for 2024.
Olde Gets an Update in Old Town
After my long flight from Los Angeles, I needed a drink. Nothing fancy, but close enough to walk from my hotel and get a feel for the surroundings. Somewhere the locals go is always ideal. I strolled through Old Town and decided on the Olde Bar Oyster Saloon.
American history buffs may be familiar with the iconic Bookbinder’s, a Philly staple from the 1800s until about a decade ago. When that restaurant departed, a James Beard award winner, Chef Jose Garces, stepped in.
At first, it seemed like a peculiar match. Garces was known at the time for Latin-inspired dishes and has since brought that flair to several successful, eclectic ventures. The Olde Bar showcases his versatility.
Garces has kept the Bookbinder’s legacy alive for a new era. Enjoy a cocktail (or two) with some oysters and Buffalo cauliflower on the bar side. While in their dining room savor meals like southern comfort food and plenty of seafood and fresh lobster. There’s even lobster pot pie.
Philadelphia’s Chinatown
Another dinner option lies in Philly’s nearby Chinatown, where EMei Restaurant is praised for its authentic Sichuan plates. Owner Dan Tsao immigrated from Sichuan to the United States over 25 years ago, but his roots are expertly shown through the food.
As Tsao himself is gluten-free due to an allergy, the menu includes many gluten-free dishes, like honey walnut shrimp. Since I also have that allergy, it was a “Toto, we’re not in Kansas anymore” kind of evening to enjoy these usually off-limit plates.
Although a majority of EMei’s menu is not spicy, Sichuan foods commonly are. When Chef Dan asked if I could handle spice, I agreed without hesitation. Then I thought what am I doing? The next thing I knew, I had an order of Chongqing spice chicken in front of me. No going back now.
It wasn’t too bad at first. The heat built as a slow burn, not an intolerable burst. Still, it was intense. I’d order it again.
Cake for Breakfast in the Rittenhouse District
In the morning, you might want to take a walk on the elegant end of town in the Rittenhouse District. As a lover of Manhattan’s Upper West Side, I felt cozy here. The affluent neighborhood boasts intimate, tree-lined streets with a blend of brownstone homes and upscale nooks.
P.S. & Co had my heart instantly. The cafe serves a plant-based, gluten-free, organic, and kosher menu of light bites and entrees (in addition to juices, smoothies, coffee, and tea) that are luscious. Do not let the word “vegan” scare you. I ate a slice of vanilla cream cake that was both delicious and healthy. Best part? It was barely 10 a.m.
In a city where cheesesteaks rule, P.S. & Co was a breath of fresh air. P.S. & Co’s proprietor, Andrea Kyan, said that the local crowd can be tough. Most of her clientele are already following a herbivore diet. I say when you visit, step out of your comfort zone. Even if it’s not your usual kind of food, give a tahini chocolate chip cookie a try.
See the Magical Side of Philly
I feel fortunate to have seen quite a few unique places during my travels. One that remains in my top ten is Philly’s Magic Gardens. The gardens are the creation of a local renaissance man of sorts, Isaiah Zagar and his wife, Julia. The Zagars made it a lifelong mission to beautify and improve the South Street neighborhood, which was at risk of being demolished. The plan was to eliminate the street and build a highway in its place.
Following a mental health crisis, Isaiah found solace in creating art with mosaics. This simple hobby became the key to improving not only his health but the entire South Street district. He used handmade tiles, bottles, bicycle wheels, mirrors, international folk art, and more to draw influence from his life through art.
The gardens feature two indoor galleries and a bi-level outdoor sculpture garden. Since the Zagars are avid collectors of Mexican and Spanish art, there’s a lot to spot throughout the haven — including works by Picasso.
Boozing with the Founding Fathers
A fantastic way to see the city while sipping and mingling is to hop aboard the Founding Footsteps trolley tour. The local tours offer delightful ways to see the city in more ways than one.
I admit: I had no idea just how fun this ride would be when I walked up to the Betsy Ross House, where the tour meets. But I knew I was in for a good time when Warren, our larger-than-life guide, announced that we should take a shot anytime he mentioned Benjamin Franklin.
Yep. This is a BYOB trolley tour. You can imagine my initial head scratch as I saw passengers boarding with coolers filled with beer.
Although drinking’s not mandatory, riding a trolley through Philadelphia sipping wine makes for a great ride. Warren keeps the 90-minute journey boisterous with Broadway-like one-man performances of pop hits in between fun facts on Philly.
In addition to seeing the sights by trolley, we made several stops to take pictures (including at the LOVE sculpture and Rocky steps) and even Whole Foods. It was said to be a restroom break but somehow we all seemed to purchase more alcohol for our tour.
If boozing it up isn’t on the agenda, Founding Footsteps offers several tours for all ages, including a walking tour if weather permits.
If You Go
- In between my explorations, I called the Independence Park Hotel “home.” This historic property is recognized by the US Department of the Interior and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The building is one of the oldest in Old Town Philly and has housed everything from a general store to a doll manufacturing plant before it was a hotel.
- Reading Terminal Market is a terrific foodie stop, a smorgasbord of over 80 vendors serving up food fit for any diet. Don’t miss getting a picture with Philbert, the food hall’s mascot pig. (No relation to Rachel, a similar pig sculpture over at Seattle’s Pike Place Market.)
- If seeing some well-known sights like the Barnes Foundation and Museum of the American Revolution are on the agenda, check out the Philadelphia CityPASS.
Learn more and plan a visit here.
My visit was sponsored by Visit Philly.
