Santa Rosa, California, the county seat of Sonoma County, welcomes you with open furry arms at the airport. Snoopy and the entire Peanuts gang will greet you when you fly into Santa Rosa. Near the airport bearing his name is a museum dedicated to the famed cartoonist, The Charles M. Schulz Museum and Research Center. Spend a day with Charlie Brown and his friends, exploring the exhibits of Schulz’s life and art, the father of America’s favorite cartoon strip. In addition, while you’re there, enjoy a nibble at the Warm Puppy Café.
Santa Rosa Wine Country
Santa Rosa, Spanish for “Saint Rose,” is fifty-five miles north of San Francisco amidst wine country. Not a wine drinker? No problem; Santa Rosa also has distilleries, breweries, and pubs to tempt you.
But let’s talk wine. Sonoma County’s microclimates create one of the world’s most diverse wine-growing regions. The AVA (American Viticultural Area) divvies up the county’s 425 wineries into 19 AVAs. AVA boundaries are drawn according to their distinctive soil, elevation, and climate. By comparison, the entire state of Virginia holds eight AVAs that support more than 300 wineries. Next door, North Carolina has only six AVAs. Perhaps more impressive is that 85 percent of the valley wineries are family-owned. And the variety of growing regions means that more than 60 varieties of grapes are happy growing here.
Ledson Winery & Vineyards
Steve Ledson has red wine in his veins, and he “got it honest,” as my Grandma would say. Ledson’s ancestors grew grapes in Sonoma County in 1860 and bottled Zinfandel and Alicante wines. Today, he still grows grapes in Sonoma County and has adult children who work with him, fulfilling a family heritage.
The winery started life as a home, but as Ledson was busy building, people wandered up the driveway asking if it was a winery. Ledson, the designer and builder, began selling bottles of his Merlot from the truck and shifted his house-plan gears.
The four-story, 16,000-square-foot castle has multiple tasting rooms with unique, handcrafted bars. Experienced staff, trained by Steve Ledson, pour Ledson wines between their descriptions and anecdotes about castle construction. For instance, the structure has 25 miles of crown molding and more than 10 miles of wood inlays trim the floors.
Visiting the Ledson Winery in Santa Rosa
Stop by the marketplace, grab picnic supplies, and head to the beautiful grounds. But don’t forget to choose your favorite wine from the 70 Ledson Winery & Vineyards produces. If 70 sounds like a lot, it is. Ledson says it has the most extensive ultra-premium wine portfolio of any U.S. family-owned winery.
Tasting selections for me ranged from stainless steel aged Chardonnay to Baldocchi, Malbec, and Petite Sirah to the 2024 Gold Medal-winning Cabernet Sauvignon served at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair. They all have my “I like this” dot beside their name, but the Dry Creek Valley Malbec has a smiley face. Our taster calls the winemaker “a master with a pipette.” That tiny tool allows him to taste test wines and determine the needed bottling time without disturbing the batch.
Coursey Graves Estate Winery
Posing atop a rugged hill 1,500 feet above Sonoma Valley, Coursey Graves Winery overlooks pastel blooms spreading out like a fairy princess dress. The princess is gazing down at a pond with an arched bridge. When you arrive, and you’re met in the parking lot by a smiling, wine-toting hostess, you’ll know you are in the right place.
Coursey Graves has lovely panoramic views, and the wine cave dug into the hillside is a distinctive place for aging wines. We tasted a few as we passed through the cellar, but most were enjoyed as we soaked in the view of the Monet-style gardens. The French-style winery boasts Bordeaux- and Rhone-style varietals. My tasting menu included Sonoma Coast Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, and the luxurious Bennett Mountain Estate Red Blend.
Hook & Ladder
Hook & Ladder Winery has conspicuous lawn ornaments, such as fire trucks. Inside the tasting room, patches are displayed, collected from wine-loving firefighters nationwide. Owned by the DeLoach family, who pushed for the Russian River Valley AVA designation, Jason DeLoach is the head winemaker.
Our wine pourer, Maureen Faulk, was top-notch. She did a great job on a short video, too. We tasted a bright, sparkling brut wine, then moved on to a perfect Rose of Pinot Noir. The Sauvignon Blanc is estate-bottled, and Spiderweb Chardonnay is a single-vineyard wine. Next, we tried the Merlot and took our juicy Pinot Noir on a facility tour (you have to catch workers when you can, even in the middle of a tasting). We finished the morning’s tastings with a lovely 2021 “Old Vine” Marcucci Zinfandel. This historic vineyard was planted in 1922 and still produces beautiful grapes (and wine in the right hands).
Russian River Vineyards
The drive to Russian River Vineyards for a wine tasting with lunch had us dipping down hilly, curvy roads that led us to a hidden treasure near Forestville. Winemaker and CEO Gio Balisttreri worked with close friend and mentor Anthony Austin so that he could learn from the best. Austin is a native of Sonoma County and started work at Firestone Vineyards after his education at UC-Davis. Then, he opened Austin Cellars and later consulted with Sonoma Coast Vineyards. The two continue to produce wines at Russian River.
© Jo Clark
Gina brought tastes of wines that included Confluence, a white blend, several Pinot Noirs, and the Confluence red blend. Lunch included Pesto Caprese Focaccia and West County Focaccia and a turkey sandwich with prosciutto, Swiss, and brie. We couldn’t decide between the Dark Chocolate Torte and the Crème Brûlée for dessert. If you can’t decide, you should have both—precisely what we did.
A Taste of Santa Rosa
Santa Rosa is home to over 175,000 residents, who have their choice of 54 restaurants, food, and beverage establishments. The surrounding county holds over 500 restaurants, including some Zagat-rated locations and others with Michelin stars. A few of my favorite places are:
Augie’s French Restaurant
The Press Democrat Reader’s Choice named Augie’s French Restaurant in Santa Rosa the Best New Restaurant in Sonoma County in 2024. Owners Mark and Terri Stark chose to “pay homage to the godfather of French cuisine, Auguste Escoffier.” Augie’s is inside the historic 1904 Maugg Building in downtown Santa Rosa, once the Portifino Café. The restaurant walls are exposed brick, many covered in tapestries, creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere.
And when you go, thank your lucky stars if Raul is your waiter. We were treated to one tasty dish after another. From cocktails to Crème Brûlée, each taste was better than the one before.
Immerse yourself in all things French at Augie’s. The menu has classics like Onion Soup Gratinée, Pâté, and Beef Bourguignon, French varietals comprise the wine list, and the bar specializes in French cocktails. Augie’s is open for lunch, happy hour Monday through Friday, and dinner every night. The restaurant has seating in a dining room, bar area, mezzanine, or patio.
Plant Yourself at the Branch Line
Just across Railroad Square from Hotel La Rosa is historic Railroad Square, surrounded by local dining spots and charming shops like Plant Yourself. Nothing beats their pumpkin muffin for a quick morning getaway. The Branch Line is an interesting mercantile with local goods and a new plant-based café.
Bird & The Bottle
When I spotted these Bird & The Bottle menu items, they tempted my taste buds with spicy pears and BBQ Octopus. I mean, who could turn down a drink called Shiso Pretty? Made with vodka, St. George Spiced Pear, Shiso drinking vinegar, and lime, the mere name caught my attention.
© Jo Clark
Then there is the food, the creations of Executive Chef Mark Stark. Plates include BBQ’d Octopus with Black Eyed Peas, Bean Sprouts, and Sesame and BBQ’d Bone Marrow with Onion Jam, Nduja Sausage, and Cheddar Toast Points. The adventurous menu embraces the tastes of Asia combined with Southern cuisine, Jewish comfort food, East Coast delights, and seafood.
The eclectic delights are no surprise; Mark and Terri are James Beard Outstanding Restaurateur semifinalists—and for good reason: they also own the delightful Augie’s.
Then, there is the Savannah Café, located inside Safari West. What? You didn’t realize there was a Serengeti in California? You’re in for a surprise.
Santa Rosa Goes Wild
Safari West is known as the Sonoma Serengeti. It is home to exotic animals and birds. Walking through the park gives you up-close access to birds in the aviary and cheetahs, lemurs, ostrich, and three varieties of flamingos. Thanks to dedicated staff, no animal was lost during the 2017 Santa Rosa fires.
A safari vehicle tour is an absolute blast. Imagine being eyeball-to-eyeball with a giraffe. They provide large umbrellas to protect those riding on rooftop seats from the intense sun. Your safari guide will drive you through herds of zebras, wildebeest, giraffes, white rhinos, and more.
Plan on spending a full day at Safari West, especially if you explore the entire 400-acre park. The Savannah Café puts out a fantastic spread on the terrace at lunch. You can enjoy the buffet-style lunch in the shade, with sprayers lightly misting you on the hottest days. The aromas drifting out of the wood-fired grill will have you drooling before you make it to a table.
An array of foods includes BBQ-smoked chicken, house-smoked pulled pork, and sides like mac and cheese and scrumptious potato salad. Many of the dishes have a traditional Moroccan flair. The beer and wine list rounds out the drink offerings. You should continue your afternoon with warm cookies in your hand. You can schedule your dinner in the café when you book your safari.
Serengeti Nights
Suppose a day isn’t enough for you. In that case, Safari West has thirty luxurious customized tents from Botswana where you can stay, and the visit includes a continental breakfast. Tents are equipped with a bathroom and a viewing deck, where you can glamp while surrounded by the sounds of Serengeti wildlife. If you prefer a more secluded setting, the camp has cabins near Lemur Island. For those staying on the property, book your dinner at Savannah Café when you reserve a cabin or tent. If only I had planned better…
Lodging in Santa Rosa
Hotel La Rose, on Wilson Street in Santa Rosa, is a quiet, quaint, quintessentially historic hotel built by Italian stonemasons in 1907. Filled with yesterday’s charm and today’s amenities, Hotel La Rose is a welcome respite after a long day of exploring. Stepping out onto your private balcony to enjoy a glass of wine before bed is even more welcome.
Grossman’s Noshery & Bar occupies one end of the hotel. It is a lovely spot for breakfast, pastries, and deli selections later in the day. Grossman’s polished wooden bar fills up with patrons as visitors return to the hotel in the evening.
Santa Rosa’s Harvest Fair
Since 1975, the Sonoma County Harvest Fair has celebrated the fantastic foods and wines produced in the area. Held at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds in Santa Rosa, the Grace Pavillion is filled with row after row of tables, with the winners pouring their very best wines.
The Harvest Fair is a showcase for Sonoma County wines and foods. In addition, it is one of the country’s premiere regional judging events. During three days, more than 900 wines are tasted and judged. I was elated to attend and sample so many wines from wineries I could not visit in only 10 days—but you know I did my best.
Follow the Harvest Fair link and make plans so you can attend. This unbelievable event is an indoor affair (thankfully since we arrived in a downpour.) You should arrive early so you are first in the door—you only have three hours to “do it all.”
Whether indulging in world-class wines, dining at renowned restaurants, or embarking on a safari adventure, Santa Rosa offers unforgettable experiences, one delicious taste at a time. Listen to Jo’s podcast on Big Blend Radio’s monthly show Jo Goes Everywhere!
The Wine Road assisted with hosting this author’s visit.
Read more from Jo on her websites, Have Glass, Will Travel and Recipes Travel Culture.
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