On my late winter ski trip to Central-Southern Idaho, my goal was to cross Sun Valley Resort off my bucket list. I was thrilled to finally visit this renowned ski resort, which has attracted celebrities and avid skiers since 1939. But with a 3,400 vertical drop, it was steeper than I expected. As an intermediate skier, I found the terrain somewhat challenging yet enjoyable, with long trails looping throughout Bald Mountain, situated in the Sawtooth National Forest. Skiing “Baldy,” as it’s known to locals, was my introduction to Central-Southern Idaho’s family-owned ski resorts, which include the smaller Dollar Mountain, Rotarun Ski Area, Soldier Mountain, and Magic Mountain Ski Resort, all within about an 80-mile radius between Ketchum and Twin Falls.
The privately owned Bald Mountain is the largest. Although it’s Idaho’s third largest ski resort in terms of skiable terrain, and is equipped with the state’s most lifts and named runs, it feels like a local, family mountain. But there’s a different vibe at the smaller and lesser-known resorts I visited. At these quaint resorts, I chatted with resort owners and friendly staff who interact with guests. Amenities abound at these smaller ski areas, which offer affordable lift tickets, free parking, short (or no) lift lines, and friendly service. And while the resorts don’t have ski-in/ski-out accommodations, lodging is available in nearby towns.
Courtesy of Tony Harrison, Ski Idaho
Sun Valley Resort, Sun Valley
This ski area has two mountains about two miles apart: the bigger and iconic Bald Mountain and the intimate Dollar Mountain.
Both ski mountains are owned by the R. Earl Holding family, who also own Utah’s Snowbasin Resort and Grand America Hotels & Resorts.
Baldy and Dollar offer distinctly different experiences for skiers and snowboarders. Located near Ketchum, Bald Mountain is larger and has 13 lifts and a gondola that offloads at the mid-mountain Roundhouse restaurant, which is known for its signature fondue. Another good on-mountain dining spot is Lookout Day Lodge, 9,150 feet in elevation. Lunch is cafeteria-style with items such as taco salads, baked potatoes with chili, burgers, and fries.
In contrast, Dollar is a small ski hill with 628 vertical feet and two high-speed quads. Although it’s primarily ideal for beginners and families, Dollar is a fun mountain for skiers and boarders of all levels. Steeped in ski history, Dollar is home to Sun Valley’s second lift, installed in 1937 (the first was at Proctor Mountain in 1936). The expansion to Baldy took place in 1939.
Daily lift tickets vary by date, but in March, they were about $121 at Dollar and $209 at Bald Mountain.
Sun Valley Lodging
Located in Ketchum, Limelight Ketchum is a solid lodging option. It’s about a two-mile drive to the slopes and has many complimentary amenities, including a shuttle between the Friedman Memorial Airport and the hotel and to the slopes. You’ll also find a complimentary full breakfast buffet, a swimming pool, hot tubs, ski lockers, a spa, and a fitness center.
Built in 1936, the Sun Valley Lodge is a luxury resort. For a peek at Sun Valley’s history, take a walk through the property, where walls are lined with black and white photos of the Holding Family and the many celebrities, like Clint Eastwood and Ernest Hemingway, who vacationed in Sun Valley. It’s also where Hemingway finished For Whom the Bell Tolls.
Rotarun Ski Area
Established in 1948, Rotarun is located three miles west of downtown Hailey. In partnership with the Sun Valley Ski Education Foundation (SVSEF), Rotarun’s mission is to provide an affordable ski hill and community programs.
It’s a quaint resort with just one hill and an old-school platter surface lift (or poma). I remember these from my early days of skiing. It requires skiers to grab a vertical pole with a small seat positioned between their legs and remain standing to the top of the mountain.
A youth ski team was racing down the mountain when I arrived late Wednesday afternoon. Soon after they finished, families with tots in tow began arriving for the free night skiing offered on Wednesday evenings. I was impressed with the little kids grabbing the pole for the uphill ride before shredding downhill. I can only imagine what great skiers and boarders these kids will be one day.
Dinner that night was simple but tasty. A taco truck (La Parrilla) sits onsite most public days. Rotarun is open four days a week. Lift tickets are $15 for adults and $10 for youth ages 6 to 17. Kids aged five and younger ski free.
Soldier Mountain, Fairfield
Alice, a shaggy four-year-old canine and the resort’s “mascot,” greeted me in the icy parking lot. The warm welcome extended to inside the small, cozy lodge, where friendly staff assisted guests preparing for a day on the slopes.
The lodge has a kitchen that serves soups, sandwiches, hot dogs, and other items; a pub; and a dining area with large windows overlooking the mountain. In rentals, I was fitted with skis and had help putting on my boots.
Established in 1947, Soldier has two old-school, two-person chair lifts that access the mountain and offer backcountry cat skiing for experts. On the day I was there, the trails on South Ridge were icy, but I found some nicely groomed trails with powder on Timber, off chair 1, and the runs off chair 2.
Innovative Plans for Soldier Mountain
Back in the lodge for lunch, I met General Manager David Alden, a skier and pioneer snowboarder formerly sponsored by Burton, an iconic worldwide snowboard company, and was on its Alpine World Cup team before the U.S. had a snowboarding team.
A few skiers were seated at the table, munching fried green beans as Alden talked about his vision for the resort, which underwent several owners, including actor Bruce Willis and a non-profit, before Utah-based Ascent Ventures purchased it in 2019. Alden’s dad, Paul Alden (credited with popularizing snowboarding), is among Ascent’s six investors. All are skiers, boarders, and backcountry enthusiasts who share David Alden’s vision for a fun and innovative approach at the resort.
But I was surprised when David Alden said he would welcome snow bikes on the mountain. “We want people to ski the mountain the way they want. We don’t care what you ride as long as it’s safe,” said Alden, explaining that growing up, he heard “no” to snowboarding at resorts enough times that he now welcomes expanding snow sports at Soldier. After all, he said, it’s the small ski areas that gave snowboarding a place to flourish.
Other amenities at Soldier include free camping spots at Pioneer Campground, which is at the end of the resort’s parking lot.
According to Soldier’s website, lift ticket prices are $59 for adults (18-69).
Lodging near Soldier
The town of Fairfield has vacation rentals and one motel, the Prairie Inn.
Magic Mountain Ski Resort, Twin Falls County
To reach this mom-and-pop ski area in the Sawtooth National Forest, it’s about an hour of scenic driving on a two-lane road along a stream. Ironically, or maybe not (because it’s in the forest), the best snow conditions during my ski week were at this tiny resort owned by Gary and Suzette Miller.
When I arrived on a chilly Friday morning, the small lodge was packed with school-aged kids getting fitted for a day of skiing and snowboarding. Jess Kluth, head of snow sports operations for 18 years, ensured everyone had their gear before going outside. School groups visit every week, she said. “It gets them off the games and in the snow. We make magic and change lives here,” she said. “The key to skiing and snowboarding is kids make friends.”
In the meantime, I was putting on my gloves by the warm, wood-burning stove in the center of the lodge when an older gentleman, John Thomas, introduced himself as my ski instructor for the morning. I was happy for the company since I wasn’t familiar with the resort.
Outside, he said we’d have to cross the street to reach the one chairlift and ski area. There’s also a beginner area and two magic carpet surface lifts (similar to moving walkways) to bring skiers uphill. Thomas offered to carry my skis. So, I agreed.
Magic Mountain’s Family-Friendly Features
As we rode up the two-person chairlift, I learned he was 85 years old, and that another instructor there just celebrated her 90th birthday. The two are part of an eclectic group of certified instructors composed of college students and adults who enjoy Magic Mountain’s low-key family vibe.
After a few hours of swooshing on groomed trails with fresh snow, we returned to the lodge for lunch, where cooks grilled burgers and made French fries from hand-cut potatoes.
I ate my tasty burger and fries at one of the picnic tables inside by a window, watching flurries develop into a heavy snowfall.
But the snowfall didn’t stop more people from coming to the lodge. Some for skiing and boarding, others for snow tubing down designated lanes outside the lodge.
As I sat by the fire watching people come and go and listened to kids excitedly share their ski adventures before heading outside to their school buses, I understood the allure of this little resort in the forest.
Lift tickets: $48 for adults, $38 for youth ages 7-17.
Lodging in Twin Falls
Hilton Garden Inn, Twin Falls. This is a good home base with access to area attractions, such as Shoshone Falls Park and the Snake River. The hotel’s amenities include breakfast and dinner (for a fee), a swimming pool, a fitness center, and free parking.
Restaurants
Grumpy’s, Ketchum. Grumpy’s has been serving burgers and beer since 1978.
The Cellar Pub, Ketchum. This bustling pub serves a variety of food, including homemade soups, sandwiches (the pulled pork is delicious), and chicken wings.
The Roundhouse is atop the Roundhouse Gondola on Bald Mountain, Sun Valley. Be sure to make reservations at this restaurant, which is popular for its panoramic views and its Fondue for Two, served with artisan bread, grapes, granny smith apple, and gherkin.
Warfield Distillery & Brewery in Ketchum is a gathering place that serves good food and drinks. For appetizers, try the fried pickle spears and a house-baked pretzel with Ketchum Kolsch beer cheese and ground Dijon mustard.
Elevation 486, Twin Falls. Overlooking the Snake River Canyon and Perrin Bridge, this upscale Twin Falls restaurant serves a diverse menu with Idaho rub red trout, seafood linguine, butternut squash ravioli, flatiron steak, and filet mignon. Save room for dessert. The brownie sundae and apple crisp are worth the calories.
La Fiesta, Twin Falls. This locally owned restaurant serves authentic Mexican dishes and margaritas.
If You Go
Consider a road trip to experience the family-owned ski resorts in this article. It would take about six days, counting the two travel days. The distance between Ketchum and Twin Falls is about 82 miles. Friedman Memorial Airport in Hailey is the closest to Ketchum and Sun Valley Resort. Magic Valley Regional Airport is about a 15-minute drive to Twin Falls. The distance between Ketchum and Twin Falls is about 82 miles.
For more information about Idaho’s ski resorts, visit Ski Idaho.
Ski Idaho hosted the author.
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