Beyond The Big Five: Unusual Animals At Qwabi Game Reserve  

Unusual Red Warthogs in the Game Reserve

“Red warthogs!” I exclaimed, my camera already in hand. “I had been hoping for this moment.”

The sight of these unusual animals while on safari in the Game Reserve was a thrilling start to our adventure. The two comical pig-like animals stood on their knees in the veld, rooting with their sharp, protruding tusks. These grazers scavenge for food with their snouts, aerating the soil and benefitting plant growth. Other wildlife uses the abandoned burrows as homes. 

The name “warthog” is misleading since the “warts” are actually pads that protect their eyes from the sand while digging.

My friend Lorraine exclaimed, “Pumbaa from The Lion King! But why are they not gray or brown?”

Our ranger, Wickus, was about to answer when suddenly, the warthogs got up and, tails erect, charged off into the bush. We laughed at how quickly they disappeared.

He explained, “You will see that the soil is red because it contains oxidized iron. The warthogs wallow in the red sand mud, and that is how they get that red color.”

A Hearty Welcome At Qwabi Private Game Reserve

Lorraine and I had only moments earlier entered Qwabi Private Game Reserve in the Waterberg, a four-hour drive from Johannesburg. It is situated in the Limpopo Province of South Africa, one of only two UNESCO-declared savannah biospheres in Africa. As a malaria-free Reserve, this area combines conservation with high-end tourism.

The area has a fascinating history and artifacts dating back to the Stone Age. Skeletons of primitive man (Australopithecus africanus and Homo erectus) provide evidence that early humans could have lived in the Waterberg as early as three million years ago. Rock paintings indicate that San (bushmen) hunted in the Waterberg around 2,000 years ago, and defensive dry stone walls dating back to the Iron Age around 1300 AD suggest the occupation by the Nguni people.

But we were here to explore the area as it is today. We left our car at Letamo, the main camp, where Wickus and helper Tshepiso greeted us. Wickus helped us board the safari vehicle for our ride to Babohi Lodge, where we would stay for the weekend. Perched high on a hill, this exclusive lodge, part of the Newmark portfolio, offered a serene escape for adults like us. 

Before emigrating to the United States, I lived in the well-renowned “Big Five” Sabi Sands Game Reserve in South Africa for four years. Since then, I guided about twenty small groups on safari in Southern Africa. This weekend, for me, was not so much about seeing a lion, leopard, elephant, rhinoceros, or African buffalo as about enjoying being in the bush again and sighting some more elusive, unusual, or endangered animals.

Luxurious And Elegant Babohi Lodge

The manager, Nathi Mthetwa, and smiling staff members were waiting at Babohi Lodge to welcome us with warm face cloths to wipe off the road dust and a tall glass of ice-cold blueberry juice. We descended the broad stairs to the main reception area, a vast communal lounge with a sunken fireplace and a big dining area. The tall ceilings, luxurious furniture, decorative art, and ornamental embellishments exuded exquisite opulence. 

As we walked through the wide open glass doors, we stood momentarily, taking in the expansive deck and oblong swimming pool etched against the Waterberg mountain hills. I sighed, feeling the breeze on my skin, and breathing in the musk of the Bushveld.

Enjoying Our Opulent Accommodation 

We were keen to settle into our bedroom suite at Bahobi Lodge. The accommodations were spread far apart, situated along steep uphill and downhills. I was relieved when the receptionist, Lucy, took us to our lodging in one of the many golf carts at the ready. 

Lorraine and I gasped at the size of our opulent room with its high ceiling, large beds, open-plan bathroom, coffee station, minibar, and work desk. Our private splash pool had a balcony and patio overlooking the expanse of bush and mountain.

The ingredients for an Afrikanis African Rum Cocktail stood on a little welcome table with instructions on how to prepare it: 

• fill glass with ice, 
• add 50 ml rum, 
• 60 ml ginger ale on top
• garnish with a fresh orange slice

Well, why not? The golf cart waited for us at the door, ready to take us on our late afternoon game drive.

The Endangered Southern Ground Hornbill

A young couple from Pretoria, Schalk and Louise, joined us. We were all warmly dressed for the expected evening chill in thick jackets, headgear, and gloves. Wickus supplied us each with a blanket, a poncho, and a hot water bottle, saying, “You will thank me when the sun sets!”

I was intrigued to see the red sand of our road. That red hue found throughout this region certainly explained how the warthogs changed their color. 

But even stranger than the hogs was another unusual animal in the Game Reserve. The Southern Hornbill, vulnerable to extinction, is an odd bird, about the size of a turkey, with yellow eyes and feathers for eyelashes.  

Females show a patch of violet-blue on their throats, while males sport a bright red wattle that they inflate during mating season. This wrinkled fold of skin creates booming calls often mistaken for a lion’s roar. The species usually walk slowly on tip-toe, balancing on their long, stout legs.

Hornbills, known as “farmers of the forest,” have a wingspan of nearly four feet. They play a crucial role in distributing seeds, protecting the environment, and preserving the planet’s biodiversity. The birds also have a rich cultural value as a symbol of power, strength, and good fortune in many African communities.

Unexpected Rhino Sighting

What is a safari without sighting some of the Big Five? As we came around a bend, two rhinos came lumbering towards us. At about 6,000 lbs. each, they were certainly an impressive pair.

Schalk exclaimed, “The element of pleasant surprise!”

Wickus detailed the Reserve”s program to combat rhino poaching, which has resulted in a healthy number of rhinos living on the property. Strategies included dehorning most rhinos and attaching tracking collars to their ankles.

We had an entertaining interlude when four young lions, three males, and one female, playfully ran out of the bush. They wrestled and stalked one another while, at intervals, contemplating our vehicle intensely.

The Elusive Eland in the Game Reserve

It is not always easy to spot the animals. Wickus suddenly stopped the vehicle and pointed to the bush ahead. “An eland – the largest antelope in the world.”

Sure enough. Squinting through the leaves in the distance, we could see the giant mammal’s ox-like shape. The name “eland” is the Dutch word for “moose.” Although the two species weigh about the same, the eland is bulkier.

What is striking about this unusual animal in the Game Reserve, is the dewlap that grows long and dangles in the males, developing a thick black frontal clump. The antelopes display thin vertical stripes on their backs, and their straight horns have one or two screwlike spirals. The males make sounds known as “knee clicks” while walking. Anatomists have not been able to determine the exact source of the vibrations. 

But what truly amazed us was its reputed agility. Rickus explained that the antelope can run 43 miles per hour and jump eight feet from a standing start. Farmers have domesticated this animal for its milk and meat in South Africa and Russia. I was thrilled to see the elusive eland because the species’ numbers have declined dramatically, and they do not live in all parks in South Africa. 

The eland snorted and disappeared in the bush.

Culinary Joys In the Bush

Bahobi Lodge certainly looked after all our culinary needs. Part of the thrill of a game drive is stopping in the bush for either an early morning coffee or for the traditional “sundowner,” which means drinks and a snack while watching the sunset. 

Wickus found an open area to rig up a fold-out table, and from there, he would be able to quickly spot a threatening wild animal. Early morning, we would dunk our rusks (similar to biscotti but bigger and crunchier) in the steaming coffee, and early evening, nibble at dried sausage, dried fruit, and pieces of “biltong,” the South African version of jerky. 

Before leaving for the evening drive, the staff would surprise us with a delightful High Tea. 

The chef prepared outstanding three-course dinners with a fantastic variety, such as venison steak or marrow bone and vegetables. The late breakfast served as an early lunch.

Spotting A Genet at Night in the Game Reserve

It was an adventure to experience the night drive when Wickus steered with one hand while using the other to hold a big spotlight, scanning the bush. The temperature dropped whenever the truck accelerated. We wrapped ourselves in blankets and ponchos while Schalk and Louise snuggled. The animals’ eyes shone brightly in the spotlight.

One never knew what to expect. Wickus brought the truck to a sudden stop when we shouted excitedly, “A wildcat!” We saw a long striped tail. A feline crouched in the thicket, blending in with the lush foliage. 

Wickus corrected us, “No, it is a large spotted genet. We are lucky to see this unusual animal in the Game Reserve as it is quite rare and shy.”

Wickus explained that the Game Reserve’s name, “Qwabi,” meant African wildcat in the local Sesotho language.

A Bush Braai At Sunset

Qwabi Game Reserve had a surprise in store for us for our final night:  A Bush Braai (bush barbecue) on a hilltop during the evening game drive. On arrival, we saw three long tables fully set with white linen and proper cutlery. As we disembarked, Kamugelo was ready to mix us his special Bush Mountain Cocktail: Barcadi rum, London dry gin, peppermint liquor, simple syrup, pink tonic, and a fresh fruit garnish.

We sat on deck chairs, nursing our drinks while watching the sunset over the mountain range. We soaked up the atmosphere: The quiet chatter of the guests, a zebra barking in the distance, the big fire burning warmly behind us, and the tantalizing aroma of sizzling meat. As the sky transformed into a canvas of orange and red, dinner was ready.

Our Bush Braai was delicious. In addition to the robust venison, succulent lamb chops, sosaties (skewered meat), and boerewors (farmer’s sausage), we had our pick of salads, pap and sheba (maize and a tomato and onion sauce), followed by a brandy-tart dessert.

Before our drive back, the guides took us a small distance from the fire for a mesmerizing stargazing experience. The “star rangers” pointed out the Southern Cross (Crux), the two bright Pointers (alpha and beta Centauri), constellations like Scorpio, and the planets Mars and Venus.

And Finally, the Magnificent Sable Antelope – an unusual sighting in the Game Reserve

Lorraine and I were up at 5 a.m. for one last game drive and a final breakfast. We shivered in the cold but did not want to miss anything.

Lebo and Tobego joined us for the drive back to Letamo Lodge to retrieve our cars. As we approached the gate, a magnificent sable antelope, with its striking black and white markings and impressive curved horns, stood beside the road. We all shouted excitedly at the sight of this rare and beautiful creature.

Wickus stopped the safari vehicle. “We have only four of them in this park. The sable antelope is on the endangered species list.”

We sat in awe, quietly observing the beauty of this unusual animal. The stately bull strode off. We bid farewell to the elusive and unusual animals in the Qwabi Game Reserve and continued on our way home. 

My visit was sponsored by the NewMark Hotel Group, Cape Town, South Africa, but all opinions are my own.

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Elsa Dixon publishes travel stories at Travels with Elsa.