Perched 350 meters above sea level, the ancient city of Gadara—once home to poets, philosophers, and scholars—offers a mesmerizing view of the Jordan and Yarmouk Valleys. A visit is a journey through time, an exploration of culture and history, and a glimpse into Jordan’s peaceful co-existence with its neighbors. As you stand among the ruins, you can’t help but imagine the life that once thrived here.
The ancient city of Gadara, now known as Umm Qais, is more than an archaeological marvel. It’s a doorway to Jordan’s deep and diverse history.
A Glimpse Into the Past: Gadara’s Origins and Growth
Gadara dates back to the early 3rd century B.C., during the reign of the Ptolemies, the last Egyptian dynasty. With its strategic location along the trade routes that connected the Levant (modern Israel, Palestine, Transjordan, Lebanon, and coastal Syria), the city thrived under Roman and Byzantine rule.
The King’s Highway, an ancient trade route, wound its way from Egypt across the Sinai Peninsula to Aqaba. Then, it turned northward through Transjordan to Damascus and the Euphrates River, bringing wealth and culture to Gadara’s doorstep.
Like many cities in the region, Gadara changed hands frequently. It reached its zenith under Roman influence, becoming part of the Decapolis, a group of ten cities vital to trade and culture in the region.
Hiring a Local Guide: A Key to Understanding
Hiring a local guide is essential to appreciate the layers of history and culture here.
Our guide, Ahmad Alomari, an experienced local with an intimate connection to the region, shared insights that brought the ruins to life. Ahmad grew up in the area, and his knowledge of the history and the current challenges facing the local community—such as sustainable tourism and land management—was invaluable.
Ahmad offers more than just historical facts. His family’s olive farm gives visitors a chance to live as the locals do through sustainable farming practices and hands-on experiences like olive picking. This type of tourism benefits both the traveler and the local economy, promoting a deeper connection to the land and its people.
Uncovering Daily Life Through Artifacts
As you walk through the ruins, the blend of basalt and limestone structures tells a story of resilience and adaptation to the local landscape. The dark basalt, quarried from nearby volcanic fields, contrasts beautifully with the lighter limestone, creating a striking visual against the rugged terrain. The thick walls of ancient homes, made from these sturdy stones, have withstood centuries of weathering, showcasing the ingenuity of Gadara’s builders.
Since its rediscovery in 1806, Gadara has been the focus of ongoing excavations, exploring ancient ruins, primarily led by the Jordanian Department of Antiquities. These efforts have uncovered intricate mosaics, worn but vibrant, depicting scenes of daily life, such as farming, trade, and religious rituals. Among the most notable discoveries are the remains of terraced homes with their original stone foundations, a swimming pool, and the two well-preserved Roman Theaters, where acoustics still echo across the ancient seats.
Artifacts like pottery fragments, stone tools, and inscriptions carved into the limestone walls reveal how Gadara’s citizens lived, worked, and worshipped. The unearthed public baths and fountains, fed by an ancient aqueduct system, provide a glimpse into the communal life and advanced engineering of the time. Each find adds another piece to the puzzle of Gadara’s rich history, bringing to life the vibrant community that once thrived here over two millennia ago.
Exploring the Indoor-Outdoor Charm of the Umm Qais Archaeological Museum
We walked through the museum’s expansive courtyard. The open sky above was framed by rooms on all sides, each housing treasures from Gadara’s past. In these rooms, carefully arranged display cases protected pottery, jewelry, and household relics, ensuring future generations can witness this history. Hanging from a thatched interior ceiling, a delicate pendant swayed gently—a nod to the craftsmanship that has endured through centuries.
Perspective shows variety… an ancient column? Or a smiling face? Photos Above: ©Gail Clifford, MD
Our guide, who spent his childhood playing in the town where his grandfather lived before the 1970s excavation began, brought history to life for us in ways the museum alone could not. Ahmad pointed out a seemingly ordinary column piece, indistinguishable from others at first glance. But when viewed from a different angle in a selfie, it revealed a smiling face hidden within the stone. A small detail that would have gone unnoticed without his keen eye.
He showed us an ancient tomb door, a marvel of engineering designed so that even a single person could open it with just a few fingers. These details helped us imagine what life might have been like in Gadara, where even the simplest objects appeared crafted with intention.
The Heart of Ancient Gadara: Homes, Workshops, and Community
The homes in Gadara tell a story of ancient life when the concept of a house extended beyond a place of shelter. As we explored the ancient remains of these terraced homes, we observed how each structure was carefully designed to serve multiple purposes, making it an economic engine for the family and the wider community.
Many of the homes had the remnants of barns and stables attached, where livestock such as goats, sheep, and chickens lived. These animals were essential not only for feeding the family but also for generating income through the sale of milk, eggs, and meat.
We noticed the distinctive Tabun ovens—stone, dome-shaped ovens used for baking bread. These ovens were often placed in a central courtyard, suggesting that cooking and food preparation were communal activities shared by neighbors and family members.
Some homes had traces of small workshops where artisans likely crafted pottery, textiles, or tools. These spaces showed how production for trade or local use integrated into daily life, with each household playing a role in the broader economy of Gadara. The houses were cleverly built into the hillside, taking advantage of natural terraces to create multiple levels, with storage rooms for food or supplies below and living quarters above.
We saw the remains of ancient cisterns and water channels, evidence of the sophisticated systems the Gadarans used to collect and store water. These homes were not just places for shelter, but thriving hubs of activity where farming, trade, and community life all came together. Walking through the ruins, it was easy to imagine the daily rhythm of life here—families baking bread, tending to animals, trading goods, and gathering together in these multi-functional spaces.
Archaeological Wonders of Umm Qais
The ruins of Umm Qais echo the heritage of the past. Ahmad took us on a walking tour that started at one Roman theater and ended at another. One is unique in Jordan for its westward orientation and its construction from basalt stone. The theater, which holds up to 5,000 spectators, offers perfect acoustics. As you stand center stage, it’s easy to imagine the grand performances that once filled the arena.
As we walked through the ancient ruins, he wove stories about the daily life of the ancient city. Ahmad described the aqueduct system, which channeled water from the surrounding hills into the city. It fed the public fountains and baths, ensuring the flow of life through Gadara. He led us along the Cardo, the main street of the city. Ahmad pointed out the marble stalls where merchants once sold their goods. He painted a picture of a market filled with the voices and footsteps of traders and citizens alike.
The Cardo – Main Street of the City
Many of the storefronts still had the outlines of marble stalls, where items including spices and textiles were once displayed. Some shops even had surviving stone counters, giving us a glimpse of how vendors might have served their customers. Our guide pointed out the remnants of a few homes along the Cardo. Their layout indicated a complex blend of living spaces and work areas where family life and commerce were deeply intertwined.
We learned that Cardo wasn’t just a commercial hub but a place where social, religious, and political life intersected. It was common for important announcements to be made here. Citizens gathered, whether for celebrations, religious events, or debates. This blending of functions underscored Cardo’s role as the city’s lifeblood—a place where people from all walks of life came together.
Through our guide’s stories and insights, the ruins around us transformed from lifeless stones into a vibrant community–a place where people lived, worked, and thrived. His personal connection to the land made the history feel even more tangible, a bridge between past and present.
Ingenious Engineering: Roman Baths and Water Tunnels
This economic interdependence is mirrored in the city’s cultural life. The Roman baths and water tunnel system, still visible today, are feats of engineering dating back to 150 BC – 90 AD. They provided water for the city’s public fountains, baths, and homes, and stand as a testament to the sophistication of Roman-era infrastructure. The baths were used until the end of Byzantine rule in the 7th century.
The remnants of Gadara’s Roman baths and water tunnel system offer insight into the engineering brilliance of the ancient world. As we walked through the site, we could see the stone foundations of the bath complex, which were intact despite centuries of use and weathering.
The Baths and Water Tunnels
The baths, originally adorned with intricate mosaics and marble, were divided into several rooms, including the frigidarium (cold room), tepidarium (warm room), and caldarium (hot room). Though the mosaic floors have faded over time, you can still make out traces of their original patterns, a hint of the opulence that once characterized the space.
One of the most impressive features was the remains of the hypocaust system—a network of underground chambers and tunnels that allowed heated air to circulate beneath the floor, warming the baths above. Large stone pillars that once supported the floor of the hot rooms are still visible.
The adjacent water tunnel system was equally impressive. The aqueducts, made of stone and clay pipes, channeled water from springs outside the city into the heart of Gadara, feeding the public fountains, homes, and baths. As we explored the remains of the aqueduct system, we could see sections of the original stone channels still in place, worn smooth from centuries of use. These aqueducts, cleverly designed to utilize gravity to transport water across long distances, ensured a constant flow to the city’s public and private spaces.
Standing there, looking at these remnants and exploring ancient ruins, it became clear how vital this infrastructure was to daily life. The baths were not just places to cleanse but social hubs where people gathered, exchanged news, and built community. The remains of these systems continue to tell the story of a city that valued both the practicality and pleasure of communal living, a legacy that resonates through the ruins of Gadara today.
Views of the Promised Land and Modern Realities
One highlight of visiting Umm Qais is the chance to take in the sweeping vistas of the Promised Land, with views of Syria, the Golan Heights, and Israel.
The serene view juxtaposed with the knowledge of the region’s contemporary challenges creates a powerful, emotional experience. Visitors leave with a new appreciation for Jordan’s peaceful stance amid its often turbulent surroundings.
Lunch With A Local
Ahmad guided us to lunch at Beit Al Baraka, where a local woman warmly welcomed us into her home for a traditional Jordanian feast. The meal included mansaf, tender lamb cooked in yogurt and served over rice, freshly made hummus, vibrant tabbouleh, and a fig cookie and date for dessert, offering a balance of sweet and savory. Every bite celebrated Jordanian flavors, prepared with love and care, reflecting her connection to her land and culture.
After lunch, she invited us upstairs to her terrace, where we admired a panoramic view of the surrounding landscape. On the third level of her home, just beyond the terrace, bales of flour lined the walls—an essential part of her efforts to support her family and community. She demonstrated the flour-processing technique, expertly grinding the grains before sifting them into a fine, soft powder.
An Insight into Food Preparation
As she worked, she shared the careful planning that went into preparing her meals, explaining how different ingredients were harvested in specific seasons. Some, like olives and figs, were picked in late summer, while others, such as wheat and barley, came in the cooler months. To ensure she never ran out of the essentials for the lavish meals she prepared for curious travelers, she purchased many items in bulk and stored them meticulously.
This thoughtful approach allowed her to maintain a well-stocked pantry, ready to welcome guests year-round. Her simple yet modern kitchen housed a refrigerator and stove that she beamed about, symbols of the hard work and determination that allowed her to build a better life for herself and those around her.
By opening her home to travelers like us, she is a key part of the region’s sustainable ecotourism efforts, helping to preserve local traditions while supporting the local economy. At that moment, sitting on her balcony with the warm Jordanian sun on our faces, we were reminded of the impact one person can have on her community. It was clear that we were in the right place—where tradition, sustainability, and community come together to create something truly special.
Cultural Heritage and Co-existence
While the ruins are a legacy of Gadara’s former glory, the city also reveals how different cultures and religions co-exist. Umm Qais has remnants of both Muslim and Christian worship spaces, with no evidence of ongoing conflict between the two communities. The village mosque, located on the Acropolis, stands in contrast to the Catholic churches that also dotted the area, each contributing to the cultural and religious tapestry of the city.
This spirit of peaceful co-existence extends beyond religion. Gadara’s strategic location at the crossroads of the Jordan Valley, the Yarmouk River, and Lake Tiberius made it a hub of trade and interaction between different civilizations. The city witnessed the rise and fall of empires—from the Romans to the Byzantines and later the Umayyads—but it maintained its significance as a cultural and commercial center throughout.
The Heritage Society’s work since 2011 protects and promotes this area. Thanks to their initiatives, young people are being trained in traditional crafts, like stonemasonry and beekeeping, and sustainable tourism practices are being developed to support local families. This ensures that this ancient city continues to thrive, not just as a historical site but as a living community.
The Jordan Trail, A Hiker’s Gateway to History
In modern times, the area around Umm Qais remains a place of cultural significance and natural beauty. The Jordan Trail, which passes through Umm Qais, offers adventurers the chance to hike across Jordan’s diverse landscapes, from the northern hills to the southern deserts, while exploring ancient ruins.
Ahmad can arrange hikes and camping trips along the trail, providing a unique way to explore the region and connect with its ancient heritage.
The Treasures of Umm Qais Museum
Before leaving Umm Qais, a visit to the indoor museum is a must. The museum, housed in a former home of the Al Rousan family, contains artifacts that span the city’s long history, offering a window into the daily lives of its ancient inhabitants. One of the standout pieces, an intricately carved sarcophagus, dates back to the Roman era and features detailed reliefs of mythological scenes. The craftsmanship is extraordinary, and it provides a glimpse into the burial practices and artistic skills of the time.
Another fascinating artifact is a collection of ancient pottery, including large amphorae once used to store wine and olive oil. These everyday items tell the story of Gadara’s role in regional trade, where such vessels were essential for transporting goods across the Mediterranean. The amphorae still bear traces of their original markings, indicating the merchants or regions from which they originated.
Wisdom from the Ruins
Ahmad shared a final thought reflecting on our visit to Gadara. A city of poets, philosophers, and pragmatists that stayed with us long after we left Umm Qais. He quoted an ancient philosopher from Gadara, Arabiouss, who lived in 355 AD:
Whoever is passing through here,
The way you are now, I once was.
The way I am now you shall be.
Enjoy life.
This sentiment captures the essence of Gadara. It is a place of reflection where the past and present meet. Visiting Umm Qais is not just a tour of ruins. It’s an exploration of human resilience, creativity, and Jordan’s enduring spirit.
Visit Jordan sponsored the author’s trip through its association with IFWTWA.
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- From Camels to Cars: Exploring Jordan’s Transportation History
- Discovering the Spiritual Side of Jordan
Gail Clifford’s travel writing can be found at Weekend Notes.
