You don’t need an excuse to travel northwest of Seattle to Coupeville on Whidbey Island, Puget Sound’s largest island. Coupeville’s historic charm and beauty make it a worthy destination all on its own. But just in case, the Oystercatcher restaurant offers a dining experience unlike any other and a perfect reason to make the trip.
Imagine a surprise parade of expertly crafted courses, each a mystery until it arrives at your table. Intrigued? The Oystercatcher is ready to oblige with their Chef’s Tasting Menu. Every dish is a delightful revelation.
The Evolution of a Local Gem
A beloved Coupeville fixture for over 26 years, the charming venue has won the hearts of many with its inviting atmosphere. Indoor and outdoor seating with views of briny Penn Cove in the not-so-far distance and a menu loaded with fresh seafood make it an ideal spot. The Oystercatcher has maintained a loyal following despite changing hands over the years.
Susan Vanderbeek originally owned the restaurant and became known for her communal, home-cooked meals. Then, Joe Scott and Jamie Sastre took over and introduced confectionery delights, baked goods, and desserts. Today, they own a chocolate company. Later, Tyler and Sara Hansen brought in farm-to-table, rustic cooking. They now operate the Little Red Hen Bakery just downstairs.
Finally, in 2023, Ben and Sophia Jones took ownership. Ben says, “Every chef has left their stamp or legacy here in some way.” Today, with Ben at the helm as executive chef and Sophia managing the wine program and front-of-house team, the couple has reinvigorated the Oystercatcher once again.
Chef Jones Makes His Mark
Photo Courtesy of Sophia Jones
It’s been 22 years since the self-taught chef, who grew up in Winthrop, a small mountain town reminiscent of the old west in Washington’s Methow Valley, entered the restaurant industry.
Jones took a crash course in culinary arts from some of the early chefs he worked with at places like Sun Mountain Lodge. He became skilled at handling the kitchen independently, without the help of prep cooks.
“When I left there to [work in] a kitchen in Seattle, all of a sudden, there were all these prep cooks to prep your stuff, which I had no idea was a thing,” says Jones. “That really sped up my process a lot.”
He lived in Central America on and off for eight years. There, he worked at three resorts in Panama and briefly owned a small restaurant.
By 2018, he had returned to the U.S. full-time, settling in Seattle. He met his future wife, Sophia, while working at renowned spots like Belltown’s farm-to-table eatery Local 360. In 2020, they set their sights on Coupeville together.
Photo credit: Jake Rinn
Leave The Rest to Sophia Jones
Sophia elevates the service by managing and training a well-coordinated front-of-house team and curating an extraordinary wine collection, ensuring that every detail adds to the dining experience.
After all, it’s not her first rodeo. As a co-owner of nearby Goldie’s Restaurant and the Roost Bar above it, Sophia brings industry experience to everything she takes on – and it’s a lot.
Sophia expands the Oystercatcher’s wine program with a selection of wines that align with her strong ethos–sourcing sustainable wine for the planet and the workers who cultivate the grapes. She also invests deeply in her staff.
Working in restaurants is often underestimated as a profession, with many failing to recognize the skill and dedication required. Sophia wants to change that.
“I imagine I am not an easy person to work for, but I do care a lot about my team and building them up and training them,” she says. “I want anybody who works at the Oystercatcher to be able to walk into any restaurant in any city and get a job and have them say, ‘Where did you work before?’ Because you’re a professional, and you know what it means to work in a restaurant.”
This mindset has helped her build a strong, cohesive team. “Holding people to a standard and giving them respect professionally is really important,” she says. “I will treat you with respect, and I will expect you to behave like a professional. I think the thing I’m most proud of is the team we’ve built here.”
Part of the exceptional team includes sous chef Adam Bayley, whose culinary expertise is matched by pastry chef Alice Mills, whose desserts are the sweet finish to every meal.
Photo credit: Jake Rinn
A Culinary Tribute to Local Farmers and Fishers
The Oystercatcher’s menu celebrates scratch-made dishes and the seasonal bounty from local farmers and fishers.
The menu features an abundance of fresh seafood from nearby Penn Cove, including oysters from the Swinomish Tribe, which holds a meaningful connection to Chef Jones’ Native American roots.
“Being here in Penn Cove, I really like to cook with fresh seafood or crab. Spot Prawn is one of my favorites,” he says. “I think my favorite dish that we’ve ever done is the mussels escabeche with pork belly and turmeric cream sauce.”
He randomly devised this magical recipe, which will be featured at Seattle’s annual Taste of Washington event.
The menu changes every two to three weeks, offering variations on whatever ingredients are in season. A popular item guests can’t get enough of is the cauliflower tempura with Calabrian chili cashew cream, micro cilantro, and saffron pickled fennel.
“We do a Sultana kind of chutney on top, so it’s a vegan and gluten-free dish, but everybody orders it, and when they do, they’re just blown away,” says Jones.
Discover the Unexpected: The Chef’s Tasting Menu
The Chef’s Tasting Menu is an exciting experience where guests never know what’s coming next.
It may be hard to imagine how the kitchen and wait staff manage all of this, yet they seamlessly do it. Servers are encouraged not to disclose any of the details unless there are dietary restrictions.
Even guests seated near each other receive different dishes, ensuring each table has a distinct experience. “If I know that you’ve been here before, I will even do variations of all of the things,” says Jones.
The process begins with communications between Jones and local farmers and purveyors. They discuss the availability of fresh ingredients. From there, he embarks on the creative journey of crafting the menu.
“As much as he is a mad scientist and completely off the cuff,” says Sophia, “We’ve learned that we do have to be a bit organized with a nightly sheet for all the servers and cooks that gives them at least the basics for the chef’s tasting menu. It is totally liable to change or alter throughout the night, though.”
Digging Into the Chef’s Tasting Menu
© Emily Molina
It was a beautiful evening in Coupeville. We were about to embark on an entirely new kind of dining experience. Soon, we would sample five courses, each revealed as it landed in front of us.
First, we ordered cocktails. We chose a Pink Prince and a glass of Pépière “La Pépie” Muscadet from the wine menu to start our evening. Our excitement was piqued as the first plate arrived. It was a colorfully arranged beet-cured salmon belly with Sichuan kumquat puree and shrimp chips. The salmon was soft and tender when we took our first bite, while the sweet, earthy flavor from the cured beet enhanced the taste. In addition, the shrimp chips gave it just the right crunch. Finally, the puree offered a nice bite of citrus.
© Emily Molina
Each dish was impossibly better than the last. Next, the kitchen served vegan “crab cakes” made with lion’s mane mushrooms and hearts of palm. An added touch was Calabrian chili aioli, saffron pickled fennel, and gem lettuces—the delicate meaty texture of the mushrooms combined with savory and tangy spices. The lettuce gave it a fresh crispness.
© Emily Molina
The chef followed this with house-made beet bucatini with summer squash and wild mushrooms. The thick, hand-crafted pasta was full of rich texture. The squash gave it a slight sweetness, while the mushrooms gave it a woodsy flavor.
The chef then served the fourth course, featuring succulent King salmon. It was complemented by goat horn chili coulis, peperonata, and a fresh garnish of crisp pea shoots. Each buttery bite of salmon, with the mild heat of the goat horn chili coulis, was as delicious as it was visually appealing, crowned with flowery purple blossoms.
© Emily Molina
Dessert felt like its own four-course meal. First, a melon sorbet arrived. This was followed by ice cream dipped in chocolate, a creamy caramel crumb cheesecake, and, lastly, crème brulée. Each masterpiece was a nod to the skills of pastry Chef Alice Mills.
We had been too busy diving in to notice if anyone near us had also ordered the chef’s tasting menu or to note any menu swaps. We were truly focused on the flavors, textures, and colors that unfolded as each new plate arrived.
I’ve never needed an excuse to visit Coupeville, but this experience would provide one if I did. Another reason to return is Osprey Fish Co. The same duo will soon launch the restaurant in the former location of Gordon’s. Here, Ben will offer his take on unfussy seafood. I will be making a return trip soon.
The Oystercatcher is located at 901 NW Grace Street, on Whidbey Island in Coupeville, Washington. (Featured Image Photo Credit: Jake Rinn)
A special thank you to Embrace Whidbey and Camano Islands and the Oystercatcher Restaurant.
You might also enjoy reading:
A Fusion of Cultures and Cuisines Woven Together in Tacoma
Leavenworth- Washington’s Hottest New Wine Region
