The history of Washington wine is rooted in the Yakima Valley, where immigrants planted some of the first vines in the mid-1800s. And it’s here that Washington’s first official American Viticultural Area (AVA), the Yakima Valley AVA, was established in 1983.
About Yakima Valley
Today vineyards spread in every direction over lazy, rolling hills. On roughly the same latitude as Frances’ famed Bordeaux region, the Yakima Valley enjoys more than 300 days of sunshine a year and an ideal growing climate. More than 100 wineries and 18,000 acres of grapevines exist here, providing the greatest concentration of wineries and vineyards in the state.
When the Missoula Floods ripped through the area 15,000 years ago, they scoured away all the topsoil. As a result, it left a base of broken basalt and, in places, a type of limestone called caliche. Limestone soils are prized throughout the wine world for the mineral quality they impart to the grapes. The result is the characteristic influence of terroir on wines.
The most widely planted grape is Chardonnay, followed by Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Riesling and Syrah represent significant plantings, as well.
From downtown Yakima tasting rooms to nearby Wapato and Zillah, the low-key vibe of the valley with its small-town tastings gives “laid-back” a whole new meaning. Here are a few wineries worth exploring.
Treveri Cellars
Kick-off your wine weekend with a taste of bubbly at Treveri Cellars. Located a short drive from downtown Yakima in the rolling hills of the apple and vineyard-laden valley, Treveri makes only sparkling wines.
Co-owner and chief winemaker Jürgen Grieb draws from his family’s German heritage to craft some of the finest sparkling wines in the US. Each bottle is handcrafted at the winery’s Wapato location, using the traditional Methode Champenoise (bottle fermented) technique.
Bottles of sparkling wine decorated with glitter © Pam Baker
Both inside and out, the tasting room provides spacious and comfortable seating. Co-owner Julie Grieb says their philosophy has always been, “Come in, sit down, relax. Whether you want to learn something about sparkling wines, have a little food, or meet a friend, we can accommodate all of those.” Jürgen says, “Tasting sparkling wine is so much easier than tasting still wine, and it pairs so easily with food.” Their most popular wines are the sparkling Rosé and the Blanc de Blanc.
Guests love the beautiful grounds, the view, and the food. The food menu includes scrumptious bites and appetizers like BLT salad skewers, a Mediterranean platter featuring hummus and fresh veggies, and a beautifully stacked charcuterie cone with cheeses, meats, fruit, and olives. Sunday morning brunch is also popular with guests. And the mimosa flight, perfect with brunch, includes sparkling wine with four assorted flavors – pineapple, peach, watermelon, and orange-passionfruit.
Freehand Cellars
Situated on a hilltop in Wapato, the Freehand Cellars tasting room ultra-modern architecture contrasts against the backdrop of Yakima Valley’s natural beauty. Tyra Bleek, tasting room manager, says guests typically head straight for the mountain view lawn overlooking Mt. Adams for outdoor wine tasting at tables.
While guests are drawn to the stunning views from Freehand Cellars’ tasting room, they also love the wine selection. Guests can order a five-wine flight and charcuterie board as part of the tasting experience. Rosé, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon are included in the flight.
View of Yakima Valley from the grounds around Freehand Cellar tasting room © Pam Baker
The Petite Verdot and the Syrah rank as two of the winery’s most popular wines, yet the Cabernet Sauvignon remains the flagship wine. The onsite kitchen also offers shareable-sized plates like grilled chicken skewers, a Caprese plate, or 6” mini stone-fired flatbread pizzas as a lunch option.
Tyra says Freehand provides an oasis atmosphere that makes local visitors feel like they’re on vacation. And when you also factor in the views, the vibes, and the music, it’s easy to see why wine tasting at Freehand Cellars is so popular.
J Bell Cellars in Zillah
Wes Teslo, the owner and winemaker at J Bell Cellars, purchased this former home in 2005 for weekend getaways, then renovated it into the tasting room in 2010. The backyard now serves as the courtyard, a bucolic setting surrounded by blooming Bartlett pear trees and shaded by overhead canopies. Mounds of lilac and purple lavender plants line the long driveway into this pastoral winery. Expansive grounds, a garden setting complete with waterfall and koi pond, and overhead misters provide cool relief in the summer, offering visitors a reason to stay all afternoon. And the sheltered outdoor booths with glass fire pits provide a warm and comfortable setting in colder months.
J Bell Cellars produces small lots of blends and single varietals with fruit from Yakima Valley’s most acclaimed vineyards. Handcrafted and unfiltered, J Bell produces old-world inspired but unmistakably Washington wines. Guests can choose a mixed flight or a red flight of five pours. The 2016 Sunridge, a 50/50 blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, was a big favorite with our party.
Picnic table at J Bell Cellars outdoor tasting area © Pam Baker
But one of the best reasons to visit J Bell Cellars is its new onsite restaurant, Il Grasso. Owned and operated by Yakima’s celebrity chef, Shawn Niles, Il Grasso is Yakima’s only outdoor dining room. Known as Yakima’s “Fat Pastor,” Niles competed in the TV show Master Chef.
The Northwest and Italian-inspired menu feature dishes with farm-to-table flavors. Wood-fired pizza figures prominently, along with plenty of fresh seafood options. However, the menu also offers a choice of salads like chicken Caesar salad or arugula salad with octopus and house-made lemon zest dressing. Guests rave about Il Grasso’s house made focaccia bread, based on a secret recipe.
Antolin Cellars
When you’re back in town and ready to park the car, head to Antolin Cellars. Its large and well-appointed tasting room sits next to the railroad tracks in historic downtown Yakima. The building that owners Tony and Linda Haralson rent for their tasting room was built in 1908. It formerly housed the old Burlington Northern Freight Depot. Therefore, a railroad theme dominates the Caboose Room used for special events and a gallery and music on Friday nights.
Inside Antolin Cellars tasting room © Pam Baker
Antolin Cellars’ Viognier recently won a double gold at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, as did their Carmenere, a red wine grape rediscovered in Chile. They produce their award-winning wines from their estate vineyard just north of Zillah.
With case production at 800, they network with restaurants locally for distribution and have a wine club of over 300 members. Antolin’s motto is, “Making friends one glass at a time.”
Where to Eat:
Crafted Eatery
Crafted Eatery and Bar owners, Dan and Mollie, have reinvented casual dining at their café in downtown Yakima. The vibe here is comfortable, and the wait staff is super friendly. You can dine at tables or sit at the Chef Counter and watch the talented chefs prepare amazing culinary works of art in the kitchen.
This restaurant is also one of the most “farm to fork” experiences you can find in the newly revitalized old North side of town. An extensive wine list of mainly Yakima producers accompanies the chef’s curated menu, which changes often. Mollie says, “People can come back every week and have something different.” Try the Laotian crispy rice made with peanuts, grilled pork sausage, fresh herbs, and lime. Mollie’s Manny, aged in a wooden barrel for six to eight weeks, makes a delightful cocktail.
Cowiche Canyon Restaurant and Icehouse
When the Cowiche Canyon Kitchen and Icehouse opened in 2015, it was promptly awarded top honor at the American Institute of Architects/Central Washington 2015 for its design.
Owned by Graham and Kaulin Snyder, the place manifests an open, industrial ambiance. Exposed wood and iron beams display across the ceiling. Booth seating arranged next to windows allows diners to look out on downtown Yakima’s main avenue. Cut firewood stacked along the exposed cook station provides a juxtaposition to the large, glass-enclosed, refrigerated wine cellar opposite it. A large set of elk antlers decorates a wall above the booths in the dining room.
Cowiche Canyon servers delivering food to customers © Pam Baker
The Icehouse is a separate room with a full-length bar on one side and booth seating on the other. And featured cocktails include nine Icehouse originals and six classics such as a Bobby Burns and a Boulevardier. In addition, you can eat dinner on either side of the place in a booth or at the bar. Our wedge salad, lamb shanks, tamale cakes, and sautéed radishes paired well with JB Neufeld Cabernet Sauvignon.
Where to Stay:
Hotel Maison in Yakima
Visitors attracted to Yakima’s rich history will want to stay at downtown’s best, The Hotel Maison. This luxury boutique hotel is immersed in history and sits just steps from downtown Yakima’s cafes and tasting rooms. The word “Maison” means “home” in French.
Built in 1911 as a temple for the Yakima Freemasons, the building provided a distinguished, ceremonial meeting space for their flourishing club. The Freemasons placed their ceremonial temple on the top floor; the lower floors housed commercial and retail places.
Architect William Ward DeVeaux of Yakima and Frederick Heath of Tacoma designed the building in a Second Empire style. They incorporated Classical style and Corinthian capitals and decorative circular windows on the top floor.
The historic Hotel Maison in downtown Yakima © Pam Baker
When the Freemasons relocated to another building in 1965, a bank moved in until 2002. Today the building houses the Hotel Maison, offering elegant, modern rooms in a historic space.
Photos from the 1900s to 1940s line the hallway on the first floor and commemorate the history of the building and downtown Yakima.
At six stories tall, this luxury boutique hotel offers classical architecture on the outside. Inside it provides spacious, comfortable rooms with lovely décor. A complimentary continental breakfast is included with the room rate.
This column was co-written with Gary Baker
