A Taste of Ottawa's ByWard Market

I’m here on a first-time visit to Ottawa, Canada’s capital city, to explore the historic ByWard Market, one bite at a time.

From its earliest beginnings within ancestral Anishinàbeg Algonquin territory to its international standing as Canada’s capital city today, Ottawa’s community of over one million inhabitants reflects a diversity of flavors and cultures at the market.

Downtown Ottawa

Ottawa’s compact downtown core makes for a leisurely 10-minute stroll from my Lord Elgin Hotel base camp, an elegant historic landmark in the heart of the city. I wait for our C’est Bon Ottawa tour leader at the Georgia Street Clock and nearby Totem Pole of Canada, “a monument to celebrate the diverse peoples of this country,” located in front of the Ottawa School of Art. It’s a welcoming start to walking the city’s local and global food scene.

Following brief introductions, our tour guide, Richard, leads us on a two-minute amble to the market while offering brief historical commentary of Ottawa’s first commercial district.

Richard, Tour Guide with C'est Bon Ottawa Food Tours

C’est Bon Ottawa Food Tour Guide, Richard, © Nancy Mueller

We learn that after arriving to oversee the building of the Rideau Canal in 1826, namesake British Colonel John By established ByTown, then ByWard Market, as a gathering place for townspeople. ByTown was renamed Ottawa in 1855, and today, ByWard remains one of Canada’s oldest public markets, having survived two fires and several transformations in its tenure. Now, ByWard Market hosts over 600 independent businesses and an average of 50,000 summer weekend visitors.

ByWard Market At First Glance

Ottawa’s ByWard Market © Nancy Mueller

The market evokes a lively, eclectic scene of colorful eateries, boutiques, and specialty foods. Displays of eclectic handcrafted goods of scarves, clothing, and jewelry alongside signs of eateries like “Le Casablanca, fine Moroccan cuisine” entice wanderers to pause, stop, and take a second look.

“McClintok’s Dream,” ByWard Market Ottawa © Nancy Mueller

A large, iconic papier-mache artwork created by artist Victor Tolgesy hangs high over the building’s vendor stands and retail outlets. “McClintok’s Dream” represents Farmer McClintok’s vision of overflowing market stands as seen in heavenly images atop a cloud, like that of a woman offering apples to passing customers, a sausage maker holding a string of sausages, and a pig farmer coming to market with his goods.

Apple offering, “McClintok’s Dream” © Nancy Mueller

Sausage Maker, “McClintok’s Dream” © Nancy Mueller

Pig Farmer, “McClintok’s Dream” © Nancy Mueller

The Grand Pizzeria & Bar

Our first food stop is The Grand Pizzeria & Bar inside the 1877 Grand Central Hotel building, now a designated heritage property. We’re here to sample traditional Napoletana pizza made with fresh, simple ingredients imported from Italy and cooked in a wood-fired oven by the restaurant’s pizzaioli, the pizza makers certified after six months of training.

Pizzaiolo, The Grand Pizzeria and Bar © Nancy Mueller

I opt for the Margherita, popularized in homage to Queen Margaret of Savoy, as Richard explains to our group between bites of the slightly charred, thin, soft, chewy crust with soupy center, topped with the red, green, and white colors of the Italian flag: Italian-imported San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella di bufala cheese, and fresh basil. One bite leaves me salivating for more of the rich, juicy taste, but I pace myself, knowing we are steps away from several more vendors to visit and dishes to try.

Shafali Bazaar

Next, we wander to Shafali Bazaar for a taste of Bengali-style East Indian food, so named for the sweet, fragrant Himalayan flower that also honors the name of the family matriarch. Patrons can order Tikka wraps or plates, tidbits of meat or vegetables marinated in homemade spices and yogurt, chicken, beef, or lamb curries, or Chana Masala (spiced chickpeas simmered in tomato sauce) from the menu.

Shafali Bazaar’s Tikka Chicken Wrap © Nancy Mueller

The succulent chicken tucked inside my Tikka Wrap has been lightly marinated in a “secret signature sauce” with a blend of spices, then roasted in a traditional Tandoori oven whose clay insert gives the poultry a slightly smoky, delicious flavor.

Corazon de Maiz

Our round-the-world cuisine hop next takes us to Corazon de Maiz for tantalizing tastes of Mexico in bites of tacos, burritos, and quesadillas, with the added crunch of crispy corn chips for the bountiful Burrito Bowls. Fresh Pico de Gallo, creamy guacamole, and a dollop of sour cream top the bowl.

Corazon de Maiz Salsas © Nancy Mueller

Salsa spiciness ranges from mild to medium and hot to super hot. I go for medium to play safe—not too mild or hot, but hopefully just right for my palate. My chicken quesadilla turns out scrumptiously moist. However, I’ve underestimated my penchant for spiciness, so next time, I’ll go for the gusto.

Tea Store

Onwards to the Tea Store. Immediately, I’m drawn in by the artfully showcased glass containers of over 300 (“and counting!”) different quality teas from around the world adorning the store shelves. I browse the selections before settling on a sample of lavender lemonade, both for its aromatic quality and soothing flavor. But I can’t leave without taking at least a sip of Canada’s most renowned flavor, Maple Tea, which tastes exactly as one might expect, with subtle overtones of caramel and butterscotch.

The Cupcake Lounge

The Cupcake Lounge follows. I envision customers lazing about on comfy sofas, enjoying bites of yummy, multi-color cupcake concoctions all day. While the comfy sofas might be missing, what’s not is the vast selection of fresh, all-natural gourmet cupcakes, specialty cakes, cake pops, and cookies, among even more sweet treats and drinks. A jewel-like lemon cupcake with a luxurious spread of coconut-topped buttercream frosting catches my eye. One bite of the zesty lemon flavor permeating the light and moist mini-cake makes me happy, confirming, in this case, that I know a small, perfect, sweet treat when I see one.

BeaverTails Pastry

While our ByWard Market food tour has showcased cuisine from around the world, the final stop in our ByWard Market food foray leads us to BeaverTails Pastry, where Richard insists we sample one of Canada’s authentic sweet treats. Quirky, perhaps, but quintessentially Canadian.

Inspired by Indigenous people who cooked beaver tails over open fires, Ottawa’s sweet treat is derived from a German-Canadian’s recipe, as a deep-fried, whole-wheat doughnut pastry, both crunchy and chewy. Beaver Tails are topped with a basic sprinkling of cinnamon and sugar (The Classic), decadent chocolate hazelnut lightly dusted with icing sugar (Hazel Amour), or a variety of combinations featuring flavors like banana, peanut butter, and apple pie filling. What’s not to love?

For more information, visit C’est Bon Ottawa.

Thanks to Ottawa Tourism for hosting my visit.