On a recent wine cruise on the Rhine River, my daughter Christina and I stepped down into the cave-like Bassenheimer Hof wine cellar at the Adolf Storzel winery in Rüdesheim am Rhein, Germany. Carved into a mountain and dating to 1480, the cellar was bathed in ruby red lighting.
We found a place at one of many long tables while winemaker Adolf Storzel and his staff poured three dry Rieslings. I’m not a fan of Rieslings, usually finding them too sweet. But these tastings surprised me, two of them reminding me more of a Sauvignon Blanc.
Storzel explained that German Riesling tastes less sweet due to the cooler climate and higher acidity, whereas California’s sunny weather produces sweeter grapes and less acidity. “You can’t compare California Riesling to German Riesling — the terrain is different,” Storzel said.
This was just one of many things I’d learn on my first wine-themed cruise.
A Wine Cruise Among the Rhine Castles and Swiss Alps
Rüdesheim was the second stop on our midsummer, seven-night AmaWaterways Rhine Castles & Swiss Alps wine-themed cruise from Amsterdam to Basel. The trip included tastings onboard and on excursions in river towns in the Netherlands capital, Germany, France, and Switzerland.
Christina and I, both California natives, looked forward to tasting and learning about wines in the Rhine region from an onboard wine expert.
While Christina belongs to two wine clubs and is what I would consider a wine connoisseur, I stick to what I like (red Cabs), and skip what I don’t. So I wasn’t sure if I’d fit in on a wine-themed cruise. Would I be around wine snobs sniffing out delicate notes of floral or citrus, or people like me who simply enjoy drinking wine?
But I figured, if nothing else, I was on a river cruise with my daughter in a beautiful region.
Sailing on the AmaSerena
Our ship, AmaSerena, is one of AmaWaterway’s 31 custom designed ships. It’s intimate and elegant, with public spaces and 81 staterooms. The ship has a spa (I booked my massage on the first day), fitness center, a heated swimming pool with swim-up bar, and a sundeck (where yoga and other wellness classes take place). Our 235-square-foot, twin balcony stateroom was comfortable and had enough storage space for our electronics, clothes, and toiletries.
We met our fellow cruisers in the ship’s main lounge, the hub for port talks, wine tastings, entertainment, and the daily 6 p.m. Sip & Sail cocktail hour, which features a daily specialty drink (where I acquired an appreciation for lemon drop martinis).
Dinner usually follows at 7 p.m. in the dining room or in the Chef’s Table restaurant (reservations required, no extra cost). Complimentary regional wine, beer, and soft drinks are served with lunch and dinner and during cocktail hour.
So Let’s Taste Some Wine
Gewurztraminer from Alsace in northeastern France. ©Mimi Slawoff
Our first onboard wine tasting took place in the main lounge, where floor-to-ceiling windows showcased the passing scenery as we sailed to our first destination, Cologne, Germany.
Wine host John Aver, a retired California winemaker, displayed a map on a large screen and talked about the Rhine wine making region, known primarily for its Rieslings, but also some red wines.
“In both Germany and Alsace, Pinot Noir [Spatburgunder in German] wines are becoming sought-after reds as climate change is allowing them to get riper,” Aver said.
Isn’t That Sweet? Or Is It?
Crew members poured three German wines: two Rieslings – one light and crisp, the other too sweet for me – and a Spatburgunder.
A Gewürztraminer from Alsace in northeastern France was poured the next day. Aver said this region, bordering Switzerland and Germany, produces mostly whites that are aromatic with floral and spicy notes.
With its golden color, I assumed the Gewürztraminer would be sweet. I tasted a hint of apricot. It was a little heavy for me, although Christina said it was one of her favorites so far and she didn’t consider it sweet. After Aver said the wine pairs well with spicy food, like Thai or Indian, I gave it another chance. Hmmm…maybe fruity doesn’t necessarily mean sweet and could still be a dry wine, I thought.
These casual wine tastings in the lounge also provided opportunities to mingle with fellow passengers, most of whom were Americans. Ages varied from families with teens celebrating graduations to those over 70 commemorating milestone anniversaries and birthdays. We chatted with an elderly couple from North Carolina on their honeymoon. We saw them again at breakfast the next day drinking mimosas. And we met Brenda, a middle-aged woman from Guatemala who was traveling solo for vacation.
Tips from the Wine Expert
After one of John’s talks, I caught up with him and his wife Carolyn in the ship’s library. The Avers said this was their sixth wine cruise with AmaWaterways. Two years ago, they closed their Aver Family Vineyards in Gilroy, California, and their wine club. Sixty-five former members of the club were on this cruise.
I told the Avers I hoped to develop a more sophisticated palate on this cruise. John said he encourages people to drink what they love, whether it’s a $2 or $2,000 bottle of wine. “But don’t be afraid to explore. Wine is a personal thing,” John said.
If you’re traveling to different regions, try what’s around you, preferably a mid-priced wine, said Carolyn. “In a restaurant, sometimes the least expensive wines are great finds,” John added.
The general rule of thumb when drinking wine is to get the aromas. “It’s a good way to lean into the wine. Take a taste, let it swirl in your mouth. That way you get the full sensory experience of the wine,” John said.
He also suggested having a conversation with a winemaker, and to think of wine as part of a meal, not just a beverage.
The tips were basic but practical, and I made a note to be more mindful when drinking wine. I did find that connecting a wine to a region made it more enjoyable and memorable.
Pairing Wine with Food
In the main dining room, the menu changed daily, featuring regional cuisine and wine. Among the menu items were a tasty German beef beer goulash, an herb crusted pork tenderloin, and a pan-fried salmon filet with caviar sauce. Each day there were vegetarian options, such as Semmelknoedel bread dumpling and forest mushroom ragout. At every meal, servers offered white or red wine.
A memorable dinner was at the Chef’s Table, an elegant wine-paired meal at the boat’s stern. For each course, we had a choice of a slightly sweet Riesling or a medium-bodied Spatburgunder.
For the heirloom tomato, ricotta lie mouse, olive crumble, and basil espuma appetizer, I sipped the Riesling. Although it was a tad sweeter than I prefer, it was light and I enjoyed the apple aroma.
The dinner continued with king prawn ceviche, a coconut and curry soup, pan fried Atlantic halibut, cassis sorbet with sparkling wine, and Argentinian beef sirloin. Dessert was a salty caramel chocolate tart. I took a sip of the dessert wine, a sweet Riesling.
At a separate wine-paired dinner in the main dining room later in the week, Aver sourced wines for four courses. I was glad to see that the German Spatburgunder was among them.
Getting Off the Ship
AmaWaterways offers many complimentary excursions at each port, including walking tours, bike rides, and wine tastings. Some days it was hard to choose. I like that with AmaWaterways you can choose an excursion and then swap it out if you change your mind. Even at the last minute.
Some excursion options, like Strasbourg and Lucerne, required taking a bus, but were well worth it. Especially in Strasbourg, where we sampled cheeses at Le Gout du Terroir in La Petite France, a pretty storybook neighborhood, and bought a chunk of Franche-Comté, a semi-hard cheese, to pair with wine back onboard.
It’s Not All About Wine
Not all the excursions offered wine tastings. In Cologne, we took a walking tour through Old Town, home to Cologne Cathedral, the tallest Gothic church with twin towers in the world. Our guided tour ended with a cold glass of Kölsch beer, a smooth pale ale, in a 1904 tavern, Brauhaus FRÜH am Dom.
One afternoon, we looked forward to a 21-mile bike tour in Ludwigshafen, but cruise manager Rachel Couto gently discouraged it. The ship was on a tight schedule, and any delay could throw off the ship’s time to pass through the complex system of river locks.
Trusting her decision, we pivoted to a walking tour of Heidelberg. I’m glad we did. We wandered through castle ruins, bought chocolate (a praline nougat on a waffle wafer covered in chocolate) from Heidelberger Studentenkuss, and shared a beer flight at Vetter Gasthausbrauerei.
Cruising the Rhine Gorge
A cruise highlight was sailing through the Rhine Gorge, a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its 30-plus castles, terraced vineyards, and over 100 islands. There were riverfront villages with hilltop castles, some inhabited, others in ruin.
While we sipped Rüdesheimer coffee (a local specialty made with Asbach Uralt Brandy, coffee, and whipped cream) on a front deck, the cruise manager delivered an entertaining and informative narration as she pointed out landmarks and shared local history and lore. When we sailed past the Burg Katz (cat) and Burg Maus (mouse) castles, she explained the names stemmed from a rivalry between 14th-century castle owners.
This section of the Upper Middle Rhine Valley was also known for shipwrecks. Couto pointed out the Lorelei Rock, where, it’s said, a mythical maiden’s beauty caused sailors to crash their boats into jagged rocks. “Look closely on the left to see a statue of Lorelei,” Couto said.
Too soon, my maiden voyage as a wine cruiser came to an end. But by the time we reached Basel, I found that I enjoyed trying different wines. In fact, it was liberating. I looked forward to stocking my own home with a variety of wines — instead of the same red Cab.
If You Go
Founded in 2002, AmaWaterways offers luxury river cruises that sail Europe’s major rivers, Southeast Asia’s Mekong River, Africa’s Chobe River, Egypt’s Nile River, and Colombia’s Magdalena River.
Themed Itineraries
In addition to the 60-plus Celebration of Wine River Cruises, themed itineraries include Smithsonian Experiences, Festive Delights Cruises, Celebration of Music, Soulful Experiences Cruises, and others.
Onboard Amenities
The 31 custom-designed ships accommodate an average of 150 passengers and feature twin balcony rooms, specialty dining, and heated outdoor swimming pools with swim-up bars.
The cruise line offers onboard wellness activities and a wide range of included shore excursions that feature biking and hiking options for guests ages 4 and older.
Dining is a treat, with locally sourced cuisine paired with complimentary wine. AmaWaterways is the first river cruise line inducted into La Chaîne des Rôtisseurs and Tables et Auberges – two of the world’s most prestigious culinary organizations.
New Ships on the Horizon
In 2026, AmaWaterways will debut AmaSofia on the upper Danube in spring, and AmaKaia sets sail on the Mekong River in late summer.
You might also enjoy:
- Remembering My Mother: A Culinary Journey with Viking Cruises
- Germany’s Bliesgau Region, Where Culture is Preserved
