When we started planning our Easter Island trip, we thought we were ticking off a box. After all, how could we not visit the Moai? Those legendary stone statues had been on our minds for years, and Ryan’s 40th birthday seemed the perfect excuse to see them up close. We figured we’d fly in, marvel at the statues, and head home.
We didn’t expect Easter Island, with its natural beauty, laid-back vibe, and welcoming people, would steal our hearts in unexpected ways.
Getting to Easter Island
Easter Island, or Rapa Nui, is about as remote as it gets. It’s more than 2,300 miles off the coast of Chile, sitting alone in the Pacific Ocean. That distance is comparable to flying from Seattle to Washington D.C. We flew in from Santiago, Chile, on LATAM Airlines, and the flight was a smooth five hours. As we approached the island, the ocean felt endless. From the plane, it looked like a tiny patch of green surrounded by the deep blue of the Pacific, a distant promise of something extraordinary.
Our Guide Roberto
One of our best decisions was hiring Roberto Teao, a native Rapa Nui guide, to show us around the island.
We met him on our first day, and we felt a sense of calm and connection from the moment he introduced himself. Roberto wasn’t just a guide; he was a storyteller who invited us into the narrative of his people’s past. As we walked, he shared the Moai’s history and wove stories about Easter Island’s daily life—how the Rapa Nui worked with the land and the sea to survive.
Throughout our time together, Roberto played an eight-string, beautifully carved solid-wood ukulele for us in several memorable moments. The soft hum of the music seemed to merge with the breeze, and the island around us appeared to muffle as if it were listening. It felt like the island was singing its own song, and we were fortunate enough to be part of it.
On our last day with Roberto, we invited him to have a drink with us. It wasn’t a long conversation, but we learned so much more about him—about his life on Easter Island, the challenges it has faced, and how the community was trying to balance its traditions with the pressures of tourism. Robert’s insights gave us an invaluable perspective, making us appreciate the island’s rich culture even more.
A Brief History of Easter Island
Easter Island was settled by Polynesians around 800 A.D. Over the centuries, it became home to the Rapa Nui people, who built the Moai as part of their religious and cultural practices.
The island’s story is one of change, from environmental challenges to the arrival of Europeans. The Rapa Nui people still maintain a deep connection to their ancestors and heritage. The Moai may stand as symbols of the past, but we fell in love with the living, breathing culture of Rapa Nui—its people, its way of life.
A Surprising Geographical Discovery
One thing that truly surprised us during our time on Easter Island was a bit of unexpected geographical trivia. Even though the island is politically part of Chile, which lies in South America, it is geographically part of the Oceania continent. This fun fact caught us off guard, but it makes sense: Easter Island sits in the vast Pacific Ocean, placing it geographically within Oceania rather than South America.
This made the trip even more exciting for Ryan, as it marked his first time setting foot on the Oceania continent. That little milestone added an extra layer to our adventure. It was a reminder of how exceptional Easter Island is, not only in its history and culture but also in its remarkable location on the map.
Knowing we were technically on a different continent, standing on this remote island felt like stepping into one of the world’s hidden corners.
Our Rustic Cabin with a View
Anavai Cabanas – Our home on Easter Island © Joelle Machia
Our group consisted of three people, and after some research, we chose to stay at Cabaña Anavai, a rustic three-bedroom cabin just a short walk from the main town of Hanga Roa. Watching the Pacific Ocean stretch to the horizon each morning while wild horses moved across the land was both striking and unreal.
The cabin was simple, built from rough wood with modest furnishings, but that was part of its charm. It had everything we needed and nothing we didn’t. Without distractions, we spent more time soaking in the surroundings—the salty breeze, the sound of the waves, and the way the island seemed to move at its own unhurried pace.
Each evening, with the sunset basted in gold and orange, we sat outside, mesmerized by the view. As the night set in the sky, punctuated with thousands of stars, it felt like it stretched forever, and the air smelled fresh, like saltwater and wild grass.
The internet was unreliable, as was the case across most of the island, making it easy to feel like we had indeed gone off the grid. There were times when we had no connection at all. It was a welcome break from the usual digital noise.
Our Favorite Easter Island Adventures
Our time on Easter Island was rich with meaningful experiences. Here are some moments that stood out to us:
Tasting the Freshest Seafood and Local Cuisine
The incredible food and drinks of Easter Island © Ryan Slough & Joelle Machia
One of the biggest surprises of our trip was how excellent the food was. Our ceviche was the perfect combination of tangy lime, tender fish, and a hint of heat from the chili peppers. Every bite tasted as if the ocean had just yielded its catch. We ate fresh tuna, mahi-mahi, and grilled fish, each dish prepared to allow the natural flavors to shine through.
Roberto led us to a fantastic food truck in Hanga Roa, where we discovered delicious local empanadas. Their crisp, golden crust and savory filling made them an instant favorite. Pairing them with ripe avocados added a rich, buttery contrast. Avocados are a staple here, often used as a garnish in many dishes.
Throughout our trip, cocktails made from freshly squeezed tropical fruits became a highlight of every meal. Whether at a food truck, a seaside café, or a local restaurant, we savored vibrant blends of passion fruit, guava, mango, and lime, often mixed with locally distilled spirits. Each sip offered a refreshing burst of island flavors, perfectly complementing the warm breeze and laid-back atmosphere of Hanga Roa.
Snorkeling in the Crystal-Clear Waters
Images by Hahavera Rapa Nui Snorkeling Guides
Our first big adventure was a private snorkeling trip. We were just the three of us and two local guides floating in the warm Pacific Ocean. The guides picked us up at our cabin and drove us to a secluded beach, where the sand met the transparent, blue water.
As soon as we dipped below the surface, a new world opened. Schools of fish flickered past, their scales catching the sunlight, while clusters of coral swayed gently in the current.
The water was strong in some areas, but our guides kept us safe, leading us through the best spots. We drifted along, taking in the details—tiny fish darting in and out of rocky crevices, eels peeking from their hiding spots, watching us with cautious eyes. A sea turtle drifted past, its unhurried movements creating a quiet, mesmerizing presence in the water.
Then, in the middle of all this natural beauty, we spotted something special—a small replica of a Moai statue resting on the ocean floor. Our guides told us the locals had placed it there for fun, adding a touch of their island’s history to the underwater landscape. It felt both out of place and strangely fitting, a reminder of the past in a setting full of life. We took turns diving to touch it, laughing into our snorkels as we kicked back to the surface.
Floating there, rocked by the waves, we let ourselves soak in the water’s warmth, the ocean’s vastness, and the quiet magic of Easter Island.
Horseback Riding to the Highest Point of Easter Island
Adventure Terevaka Horseback © Ryan Slough & Joelle Machia
Our horseback ride to the highest point on the island took us through a eucalyptus forest, where the fresh and sharp scent of the trees filled the air. The branches arched overhead, and every so often, the leaves brushed against our arms, leaving their fragrance on our skin. The only sounds were the rhythmic steps of our horses and the occasional rustling of the wind through the trees.
As we climbed higher, the forest thinned, giving way to open stretches of land. With each turn, more of the island came into view: the rolling hills, the rugged coastline, and the endless blue of the ocean beyond.
By the time we reached the summit, the entire island stretched out before us. The turquoise waters crashed against the cliffs in the distance, a reminder of how wild and untamed this place still felt. The wind howled around us, strong and steady, but instead of feeling exposed, it made the moment even more exhilarating.
Standing there, with nothing but an open sky and untouched landscape, it felt like we had the Easter Island to ourselves.
Exploring the Birdman Historical Site
Orongo Sacred Site where Birdman Competition Occurred
© Ryan Slough & Joelle Machia
The Birdman Historic Site was one of the highlights of our trip. Perched on a jagged cliff overlooking the endless ocean, the ruins felt powerful and haunting. The Birdman competition, known as Tangata Manu, was a pivotal Easter Island ritual held at the sacred site of Orongo. Each year, competitors representing different clans attempted a dangerous challenge: they swam through treacherous waters to the nearby islet of Motu Nui to retrieve the first egg laid by the manutara (sooty tern). The first competitor to return the egg safely to Orongo secured great prestige for their clan, and their leader was declared the Birdman, holding political and religious power for the year.
Ancient stone platforms, once the stage for intense competitions, stood weathered by time but still carried the weight of history. As we walked among the petroglyphs carved into the rock, we tried to piece together the stories they told, tales of gods, warriors, and the sacred rituals that once ruled the island.
Storytelling Brings It To Life
Our guide, Roberto, made the site come alive with his storytelling. With every detail he shared, we could almost hear the past’s echoes, the spectators’ chants, the pounding waves below, and the labored breaths of the competitors scaling the cliffs. Standing at the edge, we could picture the daring men who once risked everything, climbing the treacherous rock face and braving the ocean’s force to retrieve the first egg of the sooty tern. The way Roberto described it, we could almost see them, their muscles straining, their movements deliberate, knowing that victory meant power and status for their clan.
Looking out over the vast ocean, with the wind whipping around us, it wasn’t hard to imagine the crowds that once gathered here, their eyes locked on the competitors far below. For a moment, we were no longer just visitors but witnessing history.
Exploring Ancient Homesteads and Rocky Shorelines
We walked along Easter Island’s rugged coastline, where history felt woven into the landscape. Scattered along the shore were recreations of ancient stone homesteads, built to reflect the way people once lived here. These structures were long and low, blending into the natural surroundings, a design that likely protected them from the wind.
The shoreline was a mix of jagged volcanic rock and smooth stones shaped by the constant rhythm of the waves. We encountered hidden caves carved into the cliffs as we picked our way along the coast. Inside, the air was cool and still, and the walls were marked with ancient symbols. It was hard not to run our fingers along the carvings, wondering about the hands that made them and the stories they told.
While exploring the area, we came across another guide with his guests. At one point, he retrieved a sea urchin from the water, cracked it open, and casually offered us a taste. It wasn’t something we had planned on trying, but we gave it a go out of curiosity and a sense of not wanting to turn down his kind offer to include us. The texture was unusual, soft, and almost creamy, with a strong, briny flavor. It wasn’t something we’d rush to eat again, but it was a moment that added to the experience of being immersed in the island’s natural surroundings.
Attending a Traditional Cultural Dance Event
One evening, we went to a cultural event where local dancers took the stage in vibrant, traditional costumes. The steady beat of the drums filled the air, pulsing through the ground beneath us. As the dancers moved in perfect rhythm, their expressions and gestures told stories of the island’s past, of warriors, legends, and the deep connection between the people and their land.
We realize that performances like these can sometimes be shaped more for tourists than for the community itself. Too often, indigenous traditions are adapted for outside audiences in ways that dilute their more profound meaning. But here, it felt different. The energy was raw, the drumming pulsed through the air, and the pride in the dancers’ movements was undeniable. This wasn’t just a show—it felt like a continuation of something much older that belonged to them first. Watching them, we felt something beyond admiration; we felt the heartbeat of Easter Island itself.
While stepping away briefly from the main area, we met one of the show’s family owners, a native Rapa Nui, who spoke with conviction about sharing their traditions. For her, this wasn’t just about performing; it was about keeping a legacy alive and passing down stories, dances, and music that had been part of their identity for generations.
Visiting the Father Sebastián Englert Museum of Anthropology
Easter Island Museum © Joelle Machia
The Father Sebastián Englert Museum of Anthropology gave us a deeper understanding of the island’s rich and complex history. The exhibits showcased ancient tools, petroglyphs, and detailed maps that traced the movements of the island’s early settlers. Artifacts told the story of a civilization that adapted to life in isolation, building a resourceful and deeply spiritual society.
One of the museum’s most striking aspects was its emphasis on the resilience of the Rapa Nui people. Despite centuries of outside influences, their culture has endured through language, traditions, and a strong sense of identity.
Walking through the exhibits, we gained a better appreciation of their challenges and the efforts being made to preserve their heritage. It wasn’t just a look into the past but a reminder of how history is still alive on Easter Island today.
Hanging Out in Hanga Roa
Various scenes from the town of Hanga Roa © Ryan Slough & Joelle Machia
Hanga Roa had a laid-back, almost timeless charm, the kind of place where no one seemed in a rush.
As we wandered through its streets, we passed colorful murals telling stories of the island—images of Moai, fishermen, and the waves that shaped this place. The scent of the ocean mixed with the smell of fresh fish being cleaned at small market stalls, where locals worked at their own steady pace, unbothered by the ticking of a clock.
In quiet cafés, we sipped coffee and let conversations unfold naturally, never hurried. Time here wasn’t something to measure but something to move with. Whether chatting with a shop owner, watching fishermen mend their nets, or simply taking in the view, everything seemed to flow at its own rhythm.
Easter Island lives by its own clock, and before we knew it, so did we.
If You Go to Easter Island
Before we left for Easter Island, we’d heard plenty about how expensive it could be, given its remote location. Airfare is often the most significant expense, with roundtrip tickets typically ranging from $800 to $1,500, depending on the season. Since, in most cases, only one LATAM flight operates per day from Santiago, Chile, seats can be tricky to secure, especially during peak travel times. Fortunately, we were able to book a first-class roundtrip ticket using just 40,000 Alaska Airlines miles, saving us a ton of money and making the long flight much more comfortable.
Once on the island, we were pleasantly surprised by how reasonable things were, especially compared to U.S. or European prices. Dining turned out to be an unexpected highlight—not just for the fresh flavors but also for the affordability. A plate of ceviche ran about $18, while main courses generally ranged between $15 and $18. Even cocktails, at $10, felt like a great deal, especially when enjoyed after a long day of exploring.
Guides are a Must
Guides are required to visit many of the island’s archeological sites. While booking through large tour platforms like Viator can be pricey, hiring a guide privately is much more affordable, around $125 for a half-day. However, most private guides do not provide transportation, so visitors must rent a vehicle to get around. Fortunately, renting a car for a day is easy. Our vacation rental took care of everything, arranging for the car to be delivered right to our front door, making the process seamless.
For our accommodation, we stayed in a three-bedroom rustic cabin for $271 a night. It was a perfect balance: secluded enough to feel peaceful yet close enough to town to be convenient. Waking up to ocean views and the sounds of nature made every penny feel well spent.
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Read more from Joelle and Ryan on their blog: Wanderers Compass
