Walking along the brick sidewalks of Portland, Maine’s Old Port waterfront, it’s hard to miss the state’s claim to fame: lobster. Traps are piled high on the wharfs near small day boats. You can catch the scent of the Atlantic Ocean on the breeze. Brightly colored lobster trinkets and t-shirts abound in gift stores. And on almost every menu, you can find lobster, whether it be steamed, stewed, fried, bisqued, scampied, or sliced and diced on a hot dog bun.
Although once so plentiful that it was derided as a “poor man’s chicken,” lobster is now a revered and expensive delicacy. And Maine lobsters are considered by many to be the best lobsters in the world. That’s because they are larger than lobsters found elsewhere. In addition, their cold-water habitat ensures they are sweeter and more tender.
Lobster is available year-round in Portland, with National Lobster Day celebrated on September 25th each year. Prime season is from July to September. That’s when lobsters shed their old hard shells, revealing softer new shells beneath them. When steamed, the bright-orange shells of these so-called new-shell lobsters are easier to crack, and the meat is even sweeter and more tender than can be found in the older, redder lobsters.
Maine’s Lobster Legacy
Lobster is a legacy operation in Maine, and one of the oldest industries in the United States. The Maine Lobster Marketing Collaborative reports that the first lobster catch was recorded over 400 years ago, in the 1600s. Today, over 100 million pounds of lobster are harvested from the Atlantic Ocean off the coast of Maine each year by 5,600 independent lobstermen, many of them working out of Portland.
Given its value to the Maine economy—about $1 billion annually—the lobster industry in Maine works hard to protect the sustainability of its lobster population. Lobstermen hand-harvest lobsters from small boats using low-impact gear. Female breeders are never harvested and, if caught, are marked and returned to the sea pronto. Likewise, under- and over-sized lobsters are rejected.
Growing Up Eating Maine Lobster
I grew up in New York State, eating Maine lobster. It’s a summer staple along the Eastern seaboard, where there’s simply no other kind of lobster to consider.
Wearing bibs to protect our clothes, we would have steamed lobsters on special occasions. It’s messy work, releasing the lobster meat from its shell. It requires using a lobster cracker to crush the outer shell and pulling the meat from the shell with slender picks. The reward may seem slim in terms of volume. Still, the combination of the hearty chunks of lobster meat dipped in butter, typically accompanied by corn on the cob and a baked potato, means you’ll be sated nonetheless.
In my 20s, living in Boston, I was introduced to Maine-style lobster rolls. These sandwiches are served cold, with copious amounts of lobster meat mixed with mayonnaise, celery, and a squeeze of lemon. The creamy concoction is then nestled in a warm, toasted open-top bun.
When I moved to Connecticut, I was shocked to find that southern New Englanders prefer their lobster rolls warm and doused with butter. It seemed like culinary sacrilege, but I have come to enjoy that variation.
Today, you can find any number of different lobster roll styles: The rich and delicious meat can be seasoned with pesto, garlic aioli, mustard, blue cheese, and anything else you can think of.
Me? I’ll stick with the classics.
Where to Eat Lobster in Portland
It’s hard to go wrong choosing a restaurant for a lobster dinner or roll in Portland, but there are some clear favorites.
DiMillo’s on the Water makes almost everyone’s list. The cuisine is delicious, and it’s a converted car ferry that is now a floating restaurant docked on Portland’s Long Wharf. Try the lobster roll, lobster club, lobster mac and cheese, or steamed, baked, or deep-fried lobster dinner. If you prefer not to crack the shell yourself, order the “Lazy Lobster”— lobster meat sautéed in butter.
The Highroller Lobster Co. began as a food truck in 2015. It’s now a restaurant that serves up inventive dishes like a breaded-and-deep-fried Lobby pop (a lobster tail on a stick), flights of mini lobster rolls, and lobster tails served like shrimp cocktails.
Try the Today Show’s Best Lobster Roll Contest Winner…
Luke’s Lobster at Portland Pier has won the Today Show’s Best Lobster Roll Contest, among other national awards. It has also opened numerous shacks in major cities across the United States and the world. The flagship restaurant, located on the waterfront in Portland, is where you can dine indoors or al fresco on their lobster roll, lobster grilled cheese, lobster BLT, or a classic steamed lobster dinner.
If you want to try award-winning seafood chowders or stews, head to Gilbert’s Chowder House. You can sit indoors or on an outdoor covered patio. Dip into some creamy lobster stew or stick-to-your-spoon super seafood chowder containing plentiful lobster, haddock, and shrimp.
Portland Lobster Company is a casual lobster shack set on a dock offering take-out service as well as outdoor dining and live music. It frequently wins local contests for its lobster rolls as well as best outdoor and waterfront dining.
Rigby Yard is a former train depot reimagined as a cozy yet modern bar and bistro. It offers a classic Maine lobster roll as well as salads that can be garnished with chunks of lobster.
By the way, in addition to outstanding seafood, there’s a robust craft beer scene in Portland. The city ranks third in the United States for breweries, having spawned OGs of microbrewing like Allagash and Shipyard brands.
A Potato Donut?
Like most tourist destinations, the options for sweet treats are abundant in Portland. Gelato and ice cream shops abound, along with chocolate and candy stores. I love a good donut, but at first I was not tempted to sample the potato donuts proffered by Portland’s Holy Donut shop.
Big mistake! Thankfully, my friend and the long line out the shop’s door convinced me to try one. I am now a convert. Decidedly denser than flour-based donuts, the added sugar does to potato donuts what it does to everything else—makes them delectable.
The shop rotates through various donut flavors, including lemon, triple berry, and maple, offering approximately 20 varieties for sale daily. The store closes once they’ve sold the day’s inventory. If you’d like to try them, you don’t have to go to Maine; like the local lobster, you can order these online.
If You Go
Portland is about a 1 ¾-hour drive from Boston. Visitor information is available at VisitPortland.com.
Where to Stay
I was lucky enough to overnight at Portland Harbor Hotel, the city’s only AAA Four Diamond accommodation. A small, pet-friendly boutique hotel, it is conveniently located on a hilltop in the Old Port district, near an abundance of restaurants and shops. The décor is handsome, with a maritime theme, wood floors, and a marble fireplace. From the grand stairway at the front of the building to the lobby, the hotel emanates a classic New England vibe. I particularly enjoyed viewing the funky artwork by Maine artists that can be found all around the hotel.
One of the hotel’s most desirable amenities is a well-stocked pantry on every guest floor with complimentary beverages. They offer baked goods in the morning, and fruit, candy, and snacks are provided the rest of the day and night. There’s also a secluded patio decorated with lush greenery, sculptures, fountains, fire pits, and cozy seating arrangements.
Other accommodation options include historic hotels like the Portland Regency Hotel & Spa and the Inn at St. John. The usual chains from Aloft to Clarion, Courtyard by Marriott, Holiday Inn, Hyatt Place, and Residence Inn are available in the downtown and Old Port areas, along with a variety of bed and breakfasts and vacation rentals.
Timing Your Visit
Portland is a stop on many New England and Canada cruises, and you might want to visit elsewhere on days when the large cruise ships dock there. Check CruiseMapper for docking dates and times. One culinary tour guide told me that when the ships dock, around 4,000 people disembark onto the Old Port streets to shop and eat, changing up Portland’s vibe from hipster/bohemian to touristy.
Thanks to Colwen Hotels for hosting my stay in Portland.
You might also enjoy:
- In New Brunswick, Lobster and Caviar Get Pretty Wild
- Summer Splendor in New York’s Southern Finger Lakes
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