My love affair with the Canadian Rockies began three years ago on my first trip to Banff, which is what most people think of when they hear “Canadian Rockies.” I arrived late, the mountains cloaked in inky blackness. When I pulled open my curtains the next morning, sleek, snow-brushed peaks sparkled in the morning sun, and I was hooked.
But Banff itself felt crowded, staged. Tourists jostled for selfies, flitted between Helly Hansen and Patagonia, and I wished for a place where I could have these mountains without the rest of the trappings. Turns out there is such a place: Golden, British Columbia.
Located 90 miles east of Banff and a three-hour drive from Calgary via the Trans-Canada Highway, this small town on the BC side of the Rockies offers abundant natural beauty alongside enough hotels, restaurants, and shops for a comfortable stay without the overhyped vibe of its more famous neighbor.
Golden vs. Banff
Renting a car at Calgary Airport adds about an hour to your drive, and shuttle service is limited. But this is a place where a car is essential, unlike more walkable Banff. Golden and Banff share the same breathtaking landscapes year-round. While Golden has slightly fewer lodging and dining options, it holds its own with amenities.
One of the town’s biggest differences is energy: Golden is a working community, not a tourist hotspot. At Ethos Cafe downtown, I shared a communal breakfast table with a local mom and her two preschoolers, who happily munched toast while she sipped coffee. Moments like this, rubbing elbows with locals going about their day, offer a deeper sense of place.
Yoho National Park
Just 20 minutes from Golden, Yoho National Park is an ethereal world of waterfalls, rugged peaks, and trails. Around every bend, the landscape surprises and delights, and with far fewer visitors than Banff, the park feels intimate, wild, and utterly spectacular. Here’s what not to miss:
Takakkaw Falls
At 1,224 feet, Takakkaw Falls is Canada’s second-tallest waterfall. Reach the base of the falls via a short, easy paved path from the parking lot. The sheer size of the falls is impressive, but be prepared to be patient with your picture-taking — this is a popular spot for photos.
Emerald Lake
This 225-acre glacial lake is surrounded by a 3.2-mile walking path and is one of Yoho National Park’s most visited spots. The shimmering surface was dotted with colorful canoes during my October visit, adding bursts of color and depth to this otherworldly landscape. It was hard to tear my eyes away: the electric shade of turquoise water made my brain question whether this vivid hue could really occur by nature’s hand. The answer is joyfully, impossibly yes.
Emerald Lake is a more tranquil option to popular Lake Louise. The landscape is similar, and the slimmer presence of humans makes for a better picture-taking and a much more pleasant experience overall.
Natural Bridge
Formed over centuries by the erosive force of the Kicking Horse River, the limestone arch once marked a simple waterfall where water carved through rock over time. You can view the bridge from an observation platform above the churning current.
Wapta Falls
The Wapta Falls trail is a moderate three-mile out-and-back trail extending to the base of this 98-foot waterfall on the Kicking Horse River. Most of the trail is easy, with pretty albeit underwhelming scenery, until you reach the top of the falls at the one-mile mark. The path leading down to the falls is steep, and things become more challenging from there. But it is worth the climb to view the falls from below and feel the cold spray hit your cheeks.
Spiral Tunnels Viewpoint
A true marvel of engineering, this tunnel was carved into the mountains to help trains navigate the steep Kicking Horse Path. Onlookers can see the train looping over and under itself as it winds through the tunnels. The scenic viewpoint features storyboards that recount the history and construction of the tunnels. Although there’s no published train schedule, patience may be rewarded with a view of a passing train.
Other things to do in Golden
Golden Skybridge
This adventure experience has two suspension bridges extending over the Columbia Valley. One, at 426 feet, is Canada’s highest suspension bridge. A thrilling (or terrifying, depending on your viewpoint), sky swing plummets riders 500 feet toward the canyon floor. Treetop adventure courses, a zipline, a mountain coaster, and axe throwing, are also offered as part of the experience.
You must cross the upper skybridge to get to most of the activities. Then cross the lower skybridge to get back to the entrance. So, if you can’t hack the suspension bridges, this experience isn’t for you.
Walk with wolves
The Northern Lights Wolf Centre in the Blaeberry Valley is an interpretive center focused on wolf education. The premier experience offered is the Centre’s walk with wolves. A trained handler leads a small group on an off-leash walk with a wolf in its natural habitat.
My 90-minute walk with Flora, a 13-year-old Grey Wolf, zipped by in what felt like 15 minutes. “Walk with wolves” wasn’t on my bucket list, but the nearness of this beautiful animal was the experience I didn’t know I needed. Everything about it was pure and humbling and, unexplainably, a tiny bit more ready to tackle the world outside the woods.
Grizzly Bear Refuge
Kicking Horse Mountain Resort is home to a 23-year-old grizzly named Boo. The 20-acre bear habitat is a big part of what makes this resort unusual. One of the lifts skims over part of Boo’s home, although he’s down for his long winter’s nap by the time ski season rolls around. Boo and his brother were orphaned as cubs when their mother was shot by a poacher. His brother died of natural causes in 2003. However, Boo has gone on to live a robust life, allowing researchers a unique, up-close look at grizzly hibernation.
See Golden from Above
Kicking Horse Aviation offers sightseeing tours in a six-seater Cessna with high wings and bubble windows, providing the best scenic views. Although it’s difficult to pick a favorite experience from my time in Golden, seeing the Rockies from above the treeline just might be it. I’m normally a white-knuckled flier, so folding my five-foot-eleven-inch frame into a tiny plane reminiscent of a Tonka toy was an unnerving experience. But there was something dreamlike about floating in the skies above Golden, even though there were more than a few moments where I felt like I’d left my stomach on the ground.
Stay. Eat. Drink.
Lodging Options
Golden’s lodging options range from cozy cabins to luxurious mountain lodges, complete with every modern amenity. We stayed at a three-bedroom, multi-level vacation rental 15 minutes from downtown Golden, rented through Lush Mountain Accommodations. I loved the feeling of remoteness and the floor-to-ceiling views. For multi-generational groups or anyone who places a high importance on having a fully equipped kitchen, this should be your first look.
For smaller groups seeking proximity to downtown, consider the Rooms at River Ridge. This five-room hotel along the Kicking Horse River puts downtown shops and eateries within easy walking distance.
Restaurant Options
Even though Golden is not a foodie destination, there are some notable eateries, including:
- ELEVEN22 Restaurant – Seafood, pasta, steaks, creative cocktails in a converted home. There’s a “date night/special occasion” vibe here. Dinner only.
- Whitetooth Mountain Bistro – Burgers, sandwiches, hearty bowls for lunch and dinner and a variety of benedicts and traditional egg dishes for breakfast.
- Reposados – I’m from San Antonio, so trying to feed me tacos outside my native habitat is a risky move, but I enjoyed this take on Mexican food. I’d describe these as “bougie tacos” with non-traditional fillings like pineapple chicken and deep-fried avocado. As expected, there’s a robust selection of Agave spirits. Lunch and dinner.
- Wolfs Den – If you’re craving burgers, this is the place to be. The vibe is a cross between log cabin rustic and sports bar. Dinner only.
- Bluebird Cafe – Morning caffeine fixes, quick breakfasts, sandwiches, and grab-and-go meals and snacks for adventuring. Open until 3:00 pm.
- Big Bend Cafe – Homey diner-style all-day breakfast and lunch with an impressive wall of hot sauce for those who like things spicy.
If You Go
Golden is an all-season destination, but consider how winter weather might impact your trip. Services in Yoho are limited during the winter when some park roads are closed. Takakkaw Falls becomes a cross-country ski-in spot*. Although the Wapta Falls hike is doable in winter with the right equipment, the hike is extended because the access road is closed, leaving a small parking area just off the highway.
*Due to potentially treacherous conditions, such as crossing avalanche paths, this should only be attempted by those who have backcountry skiing equipment and education.
Check the seasonal hours of the activities that you’re interested in. Shoulder season can be a great time to explore Golden. However, that pocket between summer ending and ski season starting might mean limited hours for some businesses. Kicking Horse Mountain Resort has a reputation as a challenging mountain, especially in the alpine. The lower mountain caters more to beginners. Skiers and snowboarders should review the terrain map in advance.
And, you really don’t have to choose Golden over Banff. The two are close enough together to make it easy to see both in a single trip.
You May Also Enjoy Reading:
Skiing Solo at SilverStar Mountain Resort in British Columbia
In the Great Bear Rainforest, a Wild Visit That’s Gentle on the Land
Jill Robbins is a Texas-based lifestyle and travel journalist. She lives near San Antonio with her husband and two sons, although she’s usually somewhere else.
