Fresh, crisp air. The smell of apples, cider, and pies. Picture-perfect views of Green Bay and Lake Michigan as the leaves turn red, orange, and yellow. The stillness of the forest and the sound of gently lapping waves. These are just some of the reasons I was eager to visit Door County, Wisconsin, a 70-mile-long peninsula, for an autumnal road trip.
The Towns of Door County
There are 19 towns and villages in Door County. You can hunker down in one town and relax, or travel the length of the peninsula. You’ll especially like visiting Door County if you enjoy the outdoors. There are lots of great views plus hiking and biking opportunities in the county’s 20-plus parks. You can also go apple picking, hop on a narrated trolley tour, and sample local beers, wines, cheeses, and tart cherry products.
Small businesses reign supreme on the peninsula and make for unique shopping and dining opportunities to explore.
Here are a few of the key towns I visited…
Sturgeon Bay
Sturgeon Bay is the first town you encounter once you arrive on the Door County peninsula from Green Bay. It’s also the biggest at almost 10,000 strong,
If you are interested in the area’s history, the Door County Maritime Museum in Sturgeon Bay is a must-see. Situated on a canal, the museum offers sweeping views of the active harbor and Green Bay. Each floor of the recently renovated Jim Kress Maritime Lighthouse Tower at the museum focuses on a distinct theme, including native communities, shipbuilding, shipwrecks, and more. The top floor has an open observation deck.
Interactive exhibits, including holographic photographs that make the landscape come alive, draw kids and adults into the history of the Great Lakes. I learn that the Great Lakes are actually connected to one another. In my defense, geography has never been a strong point.
Tours of the restored tugboat John Purves are also available.
There are four shopping districts in Sturgeon Bay, including the Third Avenue Historic District in the downtown area. The district is on the National Register of Historic Places due to its architecture, and you’ll find a variety of shops set in historic buildings.
I particularly like Plum Bottom Gallery, which sells unique art and jewelry at a range of price points.
Egg Harbor
Traveling north 19 miles on the Green Bay side of the peninsula, Egg Harbor is as adorable a town as it sounds, with a cute origin story to match. Apparently, there was an epic food fight between two fur-trading ships in the harbor back in 1825, leaving the shoreline strewn with eggshells. Hence the name.
Today, the tiny town features an array of eclectic boutiques, gift shops, restaurants, and inns, including 18 stores located in an enclosed mall called Main Street Shops.
As a cheese fanatic, my favorite stop in Egg Harbor is the Wisconsin Cheese Masters Store. The state is known as America’s Dairyland and lays claim to 60 licensed master cheesemakers. (The catch is that Wisconsin is the only state that requires cheese makers to have a license.)
Among its proudest achievements is Marieke Golden, one of the most awarded cheeses in the world. It has a semi-soft texture, and though it’s categorized as a Gouda, you might also note hints of cheddar, Parmesan, and Swiss.
Wisconsin, of course, is home to cheese curds. You can find them in cheese shops, supermarkets, and at farm stands. White or orange in color and served as little balls, they typically taste like a mild cheddar. So what distinguishes them? They’re not aged, and when at their freshest (within 24 hours of being made), they produce an exuberant squeak when you chew.
Ephraim
Another 20 minutes northward is the village of Ephraim. Dotted with white buildings and sitting very close to the shoreline, the town is a leaf-peeper’s delight.
My group heads to the 3,776-acre Peninsula State Park, which is open year-round and has eight miles of shoreline right on Green Bay. We take an easy, scenic hike in the park along the two-mile Sentinel Trail through the woods.
Bailey’s Harbor
Heading 12 minutes southeast across the peninsula, Bailey’s Harbor is on the Lake Michigan side of Door County. We make a stop at Koepsel’s, Door County’s oldest farm market, to pick up jams and jellies made with tart cherries grown in the region, baked goods, and fruit butters.
We then head over to The Ridges Sanctuary. Featuring a boardwalk trail through a boreal forest, the motto here is to let nature be nature, with little human interference—meaning, for instance, that downed trees are left to decompose rather than being removed.
We also stop at the 150-year-old Cana Island Lighthouse. You actually have to walk across a causeway between the mainland and Cana Island to reach the lighthouse (or you can take a free hay wagon). For incredible views of the lake, you ascend 97 steps on a spiral staircase to the top of the lighthouse. I can attest that it’s worth the effort.
Along the way, you can see where the lighthouse keeper and his family used to live. The lighthouse is open through the end of October.
Sister Bay
My favorite spot in Door County is the heavily Scandinavian-influenced town of Sister Bay, which is 11 minutes north of Bailey’s Harbor back on the Green Bay side of the peninsula. The prime attraction is Al Johnson’s Swedish Restaurant & Butik, now in its 76th year of operation. In summer, you’ll be greeted with the sight of goats grazing on the roof of the restaurant, though, alas, they’ve returned to the barn by fall.
Browsing at the Butik and at Skål, both of which feature Scandinavian clothing and clogs, specialty foods, housewares, and gifts, is great fun. (Butik focuses on traditional items whereas Skål is a bit more modern.)
Another reason I appreciate Sister Bay is the upscale Chop restaurant, a modern steakhouse located in the center of the village. The service is impeccable, and if you’re in the mood for steak or fish, the entrees are exceptional. Long after my visit there, I’m still thinking about the meal. That’s always the sign of a great experience.
If You Go
Routes 42 and 57 are the only main roads in and out of Door County, which is about an hour-plus drive from Green Bay.
Visitor information is available at Destination Door County.
Where to Stay
Of course, since Door County is a popular tourist destination, accommodations abound.
I stayed in centrally located Ephraim at the Edgewater Resort. This hotel has an old-timey, comfortable lakeside vibe. It’s open year-round and is right across the road from Green Bay. At sunset, the view was spectacular. My one-bedroom suite couldn’t have been a better resting place, with a full-size kitchen and living area, a fireplace, and even a whirlpool tub.
Another great option is the Dorr Hotel in Sister Bay, which features sleek Scandinavian design. It’s a modern boutique accommodation and the newest hotel in Door County (and the first in Sister Bay in 20 years).
Timing Your Visit
Door County is a year-round destination, although some shops, accommodations and restaurants close for the winter.
You May Also Enjoy Reading:
Explore Wisconsin for the Best Cheese and Fascinating Master Cheesemakers
Traverse City, Michigan’s Award-Winning Wineries
Thank you to Destination Door County for sponsoring my visit.
Visit Nancy Monson’s website and Instagram.