I had never stayed in an overwater villa before. I had only admired them from a distance when I visited Tahiti on a cruise.
But finally, staying at Sun Siyam resorts in the South Malé Atoll in the Maldives provided me with the visceral experience of waking up to an endless view of blue above, below, and extending to the horizon. It was as if I had entered an underwater world without a snorkel.
Tired from my 20-hour trip but stimulated, I couldn’t resist the glistening ocean. I donned my swimsuit and dove off the deck into the warm, clear water. The salt made me float effortlessly, and looking down, I could see schools of translucent fish.
Background on the Maldives
Close to India and Sri Lanka, the Maldives are made up of more than 1,000 tiny islands. The remote Indian Ocean country conjures up visions of romance under the sun, white-sand beaches, and coral reefs teeming with colorful fish for the perfect dive.
Lounging in an overwater villa with a view out to sea completes the image, perhaps enhanced with a personal plunge pool and a butler with a tray of icy cucumber mojitos.
Sun Siyam Resorts in the Maldives
There are many familiar international brands with a resort on their own private island in the Maldives, but it was the distinctiveness of Sun Siyam Resorts that intrigued me. A group of Maldivian-owned properties, these resorts promised a range of local styles from family-friendly to honeymoon- and couples-oriented. The activities and spa offerings at each were varied and intriguing, and the accommodations offered were indulgent.
In addition to seeking out luxury, privacy, and a distinctive setting in my travels, I always search for a foodie dimension, exacting an experience that immerses me in the local culture not only through the people but also through the foods that define their heritage.
Sun Siyam Resorts assured me that I would be well fed (and well educated) with a range of culinary experiences that promised a strong focus on local, indigenous tastes.
My pre-trip instruction was to prepare for the unexpected, so I did. Along with snorkeling gear, sunblock, and a package of Pepto Bismol, I packed my hiking boots, anticipating what might lay ahead.
I chose three Sun Siyam properties that seemed quite different from each other. Together, the three offered a world of activities and surprises.
Olhuveli: A Romantic Resort
Romance is a major appeal for travel to the Maldives, and Olhuveli was billed as the resort choice for couples.
I was traveling solo, but I met many twosomes who had just tied the knot and were indulging in their honeymoon at sea. One pair from the UK showed me their “traveling teddy bear,” which had been their flower girl of sorts at their wedding a few days earlier. They had requested a sunset-facing villa, which gave them ultimate privacy and the added surprise of reef sharks – harmless – swimming below them in the morning.
In this dreamy setting, watersports blended with spa indulgence. Snorkeling and stand-up paddling provided a surreal sense of calm, even when snorkeling with sharks or around a shipwreck in Vaavu Atoll, where the currents were often challenging. Evening manta ray watches off the Dive Centre jetty were magical, too, as the graceful creatures floated through the inky water in search of plankton.
©Meryl Pearlstein
Spa Life and Culture
Olhuveli is divided into multiple areas, and buggies circle the property to help you get around. I took a ride to the Romance section to The BLUE Spa, a serene oasis of water features and lush plantings. I was greeted with an herbal tea presentation and a chorus of “Maruhabaa,” the Dhivehi word for “welcome,” and then led along a twisty path to a treatment room for a Balinese Slide massage.
The combination of stretches, acupressure, and strong and silky strokes soothed my back, which had finally begun to relax after the many hours of travel. After dinner, a second massage at the Ocean Spa on Dream Island was scheduled over a glass-bottom floor, where I could watch fish swim beneath me – when I managed to keep my eyes open. I felt like Ariel without a tail.
Evenings brought cultural surprises at Olhuveli, like the Maldivian bodu beru drum performance with men in traditional white shirts with black skirts and dancing women wearing flowy red dresses. I was invited onto the floor to join in.
Siyam World: Goats, Football, Go-karts, and Sunset Yoga
Next, I traveled to Siyam World in Noonu Atoll, a family-oriented, activity-packed resort, unusual among the hotels in the Maldives. Beyond swimming, water sports, diving, and beachcombing, this resort had a distinctive “world” of playful attractions. They even had a water playground that reminded me of something out of Survivor, with floating challenges and slides.
I had another beautiful overwater villa here, with a lounge chair directly facing sunrise. It was an effort to leave my private deck with its lovely plunge pool and blue slide curving into the warm lagoon. And while I also loved walking on the Maldives’ near-empty beaches and searching for Nemo among the waves, I was ready to go beyond water-based fun.
On land, Siyam World delivered again. I had miles of smiles when I discovered their goat sanctuary and horse ranch. At the only veterinarian-supervised program in the Maldives, Sun Siyam specialists nurture warm-weather animals – from tropical birds to ducks, horses, and goats – many that had been abandoned after the pandemic.
Who Doesn’t Like Baby Goats?
I held baby goats, stroking the tiny heads of week-old cuties. Watching the goats learn socialization was fascinating. They were as curious about me as I was about them. Similarly, the Marwari horses, an intriguing Indian breed with inward-curving ears, nuzzled my hands as they inspected the human who smiled at them.
If you’re not an animal lover, Siyam doesn’t leave you behind, especially if you’re an adventure junkie. This isn’t something that you’d expect in the Maldives, but, then again, Siyam is not your expected type of resort group. Walking along a beautifully marked nature trail and wishing that my Northern climate would support the colorful plants I saw, I approached a soccer field where staff competed in weekly games.
Cheers erupted around me as I ducked inside to watch. I had stepped into a highly competitive game where spectator participation was as important as the kickers’ skill. If the thought of playing soccer in the Maldives appeals, you can sign up for a “football camp” run by pros.
I don’t play soccer, but I do love cars. Another unexpected diversion is the Speed Racers’ Circuit at Siyam World. On an oval course designed for moderate speed, cars “compete” with drivers pretending they’re in the Indy 500. I suited up with special headgear and a protective vest, sank into the electric go-kart, and zoomed off.
After all this stimulation, I was ready for some chill time and sunset beach yoga. And, of course, a Zen-inducing massage. I chose another Balinese-inflected treatment at the beautiful Veyo Spa, a tranquil spot that oozed relaxation vibes. It was the perfect coda to a continually active day.
Iru Fushi: Calm and Quiet
A short speedboat ride brought me to my final Sun Siyam destination: Sun Siyam Iru Fushi, also in Noonu Atoll.
This time, I traded the overwater villa for a beach villa, and I didn’t regret it. My private deck led to my own pool, and down a flower-lined path to a stretch of sand with a few lounge chairs. Set right on the beach with two outdoor showers and a bathroom under an open-air palapa, the villa was spacious and beautiful. As much as I craved another overwater bungalow experience, this one eliminated any FOMO. My villa was the epitome of seclusion and luxury.
Here, I felt no urge for further adventure. There were no cars or goats to distract me from the beach, and instead, I circumnavigated the island on foot, taking in the beauty and sounds of the water, the variety of accommodations that ringed the perimeter, and the changing colors of the sky. Even when the island was fully booked, it felt quiet and intimate.
©Meryl Pearlstein
In its own little enclave, the Spa by Thalgo France offered more than 142 treatments inspired by Indian and European traditions. Unusual at a spa but perfectly fitting with Sun Siyam’s distinctiveness, Thalgo offers an Ayurvedic consultation with a doctor, if you choose, to select the best dosha-balancing treatments to calm body and mind. I found this combination of medi-relaxation most appealing. I chose an Ayurvedic shirodhara massage where hot oil is gently streamed onto your forehead in a fluid, intuitive cadence of touch and rhythm.
International and Regional Cuisine at Sun Siyam Resorts
With Maldivian chefs at the helm, Sun Siyam’s cuisine was both international and regional. At every meal, distinctive Maldivian dishes were offered. Cards indicated their ingredients and spice level. I couldn’t pronounce the names of the dishes. Still, servers were delighted to assist as I faltered, explaining how local tuna and coconut were the main components of many preparations, and enlightening me about the derivations of these largely homestyle recipes.
Chef Kristoffer Ace Reynes helped me understand the underlying themes in Maldivian cooking as a celebration of the ocean. His explanation was straightforward: ”Fresh tuna, coconut, and subtle spices come together in dishes that tell the story of island life.”
The resorts’ proximity to India and Asia added even more creative flair for protein- and plant-based eaters alike. Spice blends combined with local yams, coconut, and fresh fruit in soups, salads, and curries. A variety of breads, chicken dishes, and occasional beef offerings ensured that non-pescatarians were not overlooked.
Buffets Go Well Beyond the Expected
Tuna dishes became a mainstay for me at breakfast (and at every other meal). Some of my favorites were mas mirus, a spicy blend of tuna with onions, curry leaves, dried chili, garlic, and ginger, salted and slightly sweetened with sugar; and the ever-present mas huni, a cold salad of shredded smoked tuna, red onion, grated coconut, and chiles. Both were served with roshi, the local flatbread, and strong black tea.
I got even more daring trying other local specialties like theluli faiy, fried sticky leaves; rihaakuru, a spicy, thick fish paste rich in umami flavor; and smoked and dried tuna slices with rice. A refreshing diced onion-cucumber-tomato-lemon salad tamed the heat when the spice level was more than I had anticipated.
©Meryl Pearlstein
Breakfast whimsy was part of the adventure, too. Smiling chefs crafted pancakes shaped like butterflies, octopus, and turtles. Donuts were artfully arranged by color, with smoothies and juices in a variety of shades as well. Plant-based, eggless, and gluten-free foods were always available. For a splurge, a floating breakfast could be served by your butler in your own private pool.
©Meryl Pearlstein
Lunch Options by the Water
Lunch was served at a variety of beachside or poolside spots. Sandwiches were a popular feature. Tuna, the island’s highlight, starred in dishes like spicy panini with hot chili and onions, in oversized pizzas with crumbled spicy Maldivian tuna, and in mas riha, a tuna curry with coconut milk.
Always available, a Siyam hamburger was distinctive in its inclusion of peppers and native sauces. Sri Lankan and Indian influences also showed up in spicy fish and veggie curries with pandan leaf (tharukaaree riha) served with roshi and Maldivian poppadoms.
If a buffet was your preference, Sun Siyam added an Asian flair with a homemade noodle and soup station. Sun Siyam’s tribute to island sustainability, pumpkin velouté, was a rich crème of freshly harvested pumpkin and coconut milk.
For a lunch alternative, guests could try out their chef skills preparing tuna and coconut gulha dumplings, a favorite among Maldivian “short eats” (snacks); and kan’du kukulhu, tuna roulade curry known affectionately as “reef chicken.” Interestingly, Sun Siyam also hosted between-meal cocktail classes even though Maldivians do not drink alcohol.
Touring the World at Dinnertime
Dinner was the pièce de résistance. The three resorts pride themselves on offering a wide range of island and international fare at Spanish, Indian, Thai, Pan-Asian, Italian and French restaurants with indoor and outdoor dining.
Of the restaurants, Kááge at Siyam World was my favorite. It showcases Maldivian cooking with Indian touches, favoring masala spices and makrut lime. Cocktails for guests had a local twist, too. Ingredients included tamarind juice and butterfly peas folded into chili-infused gin or coconut arrack.
Seafood Dishes at Kááge
I loved all of the seafood dishes at Kááge. Tuna and reef fish took center stage along with octopus, lobster, and prawns. Many of the dishes were tarted up with chili sauce or curry using time-honored recipes from the various Maldivian atolls. I tried tiny theluli rehi, deep-fried silver spiral fish, served with mango chutney and roshi; garudhiya (clear fish broth infused with curry leaves, pandan, and ginger, served with rice and chili-lime condiments), and keibili (mashed tuna with coconut and fish paste) with various starches like ala (yam), maalhos (young Berangan banana), or ban (breadfruit). I quickly learned to ask about the spice level of these dishes as local recipes can pack serious heat.
Desserts cooled things down, and I tried as many as I could. Huni hakuru (sweet coconut-filled crêpes with cardamom sauce) and bondibai (sweet sticky rice with mango coconut sauce) were standouts.
Other Sun Siyam restaurants highlighted Indian and Sri Lankan flavors. The weekly lobster BBQ and buffet was a must-try. If you’ve never tasted chicken shawarma and Indian breads, this was the place to try garlic naan or crispy papadum. And, I can confirm, Maldivian lobster is a real delight. It is similar in size to a North Atlantic hard-shell but spiny and spotted with a creamy yet chewy consistency.
Sun Siyam’s Special Meals
Sun Siyam also treats guests to two privileged dining experiences.
A wine-pairing dinner in the cellar at Siyam World’s fine-dining Barrique restaurant showed off well-curated vintages, matched to a menu of spicy and not-so-spicy dishes.
A daytime sail from Iru Fushi to a private sandbank led to a personal picnic. As I enjoyed this exclusive setting, I learned what it takes for a sandbank to morph into a resort-ready island. The definition is actually quite simple. There must be one tree on the “island” to be considered viable for touristic development.
But all good things must come to an end, as Chaucer posited. As I stood ready to board my orange-striped seaplane, I nodded to the smiling, waving staff lined up along the dock to say goodbye in the traditional Maldivian manner. I knew I’d be back, hoping that the next time I’d be doing goat yoga at the goat sanctuary instead of vinyasas by the beach.
If You Go
Be prepared for a long day or two of travel. Visitors from most countries will need to transfer in the UAE to connect to a flight to Malé, the capital of the Maldives.
From Velana International Airport, a seaplane or speedboat will take you to your resort. Overnight accommodations in Malé are available if you arrive after the last flight or boat. Airlines with preferred schedules from the U.S. include Qatar and Emirates.
Note that the rainy season is from May to November. You may get showers or not, but you’ll enjoy fewer guests. I loved visiting during this quieter time. There’s plenty to do to keep you well fed, relaxed, and occupied, even if you don’t dive. If you prefer guaranteed sunshine, December to February is the high season, with peak prices, followed by the warmer shoulder months of March and April.
Prices for these resorts depend on the type of accommodation, number and age of occupants, and time of year. An optional 24-hour, all-inclusive meal plan with activity benefits is offered for a set price. You can expect to pay from $570 per night, per accommodation, at Sun Siyam Olhuveli. At Siyam World, it is $800 at Siyam World, or $990 at Sun Siyam Iru Fushi.
Visit Sun Siyam Resorts for more information. Visit Maldives will give you useful tips to optimize your island holiday.
Thanks to Sun Siyam Resorts for hosting me.
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Meryl’s writing can be found at merylpearlstein.contently.com.
