I recently embarked on a two-day sojourn into Amador County. I reacquainted myself with the beauty, history, and, most importantly, the wines of this Sierra Foothills area of Northern California.
Like its neighbor to the north, El Dorado County, Amador is rich in California Gold Rush history. It’s a stone’s throw away from Sacramento International Airport, and just a two-hour drive from San Francisco. It also offers plenty of recreation for the whole family for a short getaway.
The wines produced in Amador are as elegant and nuanced as those of the Alpine regions in Italy or France. As distinguished Amador winemaker Bill Easton says, “The Sierra Foothills is one of the most European wine regions.” Amador wines are also some of the best-value wines on the planet.
Amador and El Dorado counties, which share a border, also share one AVA, or American Viticulture Area. The Shenandoah Valley AVA is a sub-AVA of the larger Sierra Foothills AVA. It has acreage in both El Dorado and Amador and grows grapes at 1,000 to 2,000 feet elevation. The only other AVA in Amador is the Fiddletown AVA. It has elevations ranging from 1,500 to 2,500 feet and produces approximately 20 percent of all Amador wines.
During my visit, I stayed in the main town of the area, Sutter Creek. I sampled wines at two tasting rooms in town and two wineries outside the city. I also enjoyed an elegant and sumptuous five-course meal at an eatery in Plymouth, another main town of Amador. This meal was paired with wines from a local producer.
Gold Rush Era Hotel
Accommodation for my quick Amador exploration was at the historic Hotel Sutter. Located on Main Street In Sutter Creek, the building dates to the Gold Rush. It offers nicely decorated rooms with a period feel. It also has an on-site restaurant that serves a hearty breakfast as well as other meals. The hotel has a lively bar scene that often features live music.
Sutter Creek is a one-horse town, and most businesses reside on its lively Main Street. The city dates back to 1848, when Mr. John Sutter discovered a mother lode of gold. Sutter then built a sawmill to support the influx of miners during the gold rush and became a wealthy man. The town has a creek running through it, named, you guessed it, Sutter Creek.
The Quack Is Back
The creek is the venue for the Great Sutter Creek Duck Race. The aquatic event, which had been on hold for several years, was scheduled for the day I was in town. The race is a community affair that raises funds for local non-profits. Signs announcing “the quack is back” were posted in most businesses in town. The ducks are rubber, by the way, and many homes and businesses were decorated with them.
Amador Wines: Beyond White Zin
Many people associate Amador wines with the infamous and ubiquitous Sutter Home White Zin. This pink wine hit the market hard in the 1980s. Thankfully there is much more to Amador wines than Sutter Home. The surrounding countryside yields many world-class examples, some of which are from old vines that date back to the mid-1800s.
The county of Amador is home to approximately 45 wineries, most of which are small and family-owned. Main Street Sutter Creek boasts about 10 tasting rooms. You can experience the wines as well as other locally produced goods like cheese, olive oils, vinegars, and spice blends.
Yorba the Great
Ann Kraemer is the proprietor of Shake Ridge Vineyard. She’s a highly respected viticulturist and one of the nicest people I’ve ever met in the wine industry. Along with eight siblings and numerous nieces and nephews, Ann runs the family winery, Yorba. The family also has a lovely tasting room in downtown Sutter Creek.
Ann learned the business in Napa and Sonoma. She worked at such notable wineries as Domain Chandon and Swanson. She also consulted with giants such as Cain, Calera, Hobbs, and Shafer.
Her father was a third-generation orange grower in Southern California, so her agricultural roots go deep. His great-great-grandfather, Jose Antonio Yorba, was a member of the Portolá expedition. This group of Spanish and Mexican explorers came to California in 1769. The present-day family honored their ancestors by naming the winery after Yorba.
The family’s Shake Ridge Ranch, named after the cedar shakes produced at nearby Sutter Mills, sits at 1,700-1,800-feet elevation. Over 40 local producers purchase their grapes from Shake Ridge.
Matching Grapes to Buyers
The vineyard has many microclimates, which Ann describes as a “quilt of vines.” Particular vineyard plots produce grapes that are ideally suited to the soil, aspect, and elevation. That’s where Ann’s skill as a viticulturist and vineyard manager comes in. Her grapes and expertise in matching the right grapes to the requests of her buyers are renowned. Several area winemakers I spoke with had the highest praise for Ann’s abilities.
Mark Fowler, the estate winemaker at Andis Wines, has worked with Ann. He noted that it’s terrific working with her, as her specificity regarding her vineyard is precise and spot-on. “She knows every corner of every vineyard,” he says.
In addition to growing for others, Shake Ridge Ranch produces approximately 1,000 cases under its Yorba label each year. Varieties include whites such as Viognier and the Italian Greco. The wines from this grape are normally called Greco di Tufo in Italy, but called Greco di Oro at Yorba. The latter is rarely grown outside of the Campania region of Italy. In the hands of skilled Yorba winemaker Ken Bernards the wine is vibrant and zingy. Ken also has his own label, called Ancien.
Other grapes include Barbera, which Ann describes as “white wine in a red dress.” Old-vine Zinfandel, Syrah, and Tempranillo are produced. A special Shake Ridge Blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Petite Sirah, Malbec, Syrah, and Graciano is also made.
A visit to Yorba’s tasting room is a must if you are in Sutter Creek. The vineyard offers hiking trails in the warm months and snowshoeing in the winter.
Most Yorba wines cost between $40 and $42, and the tasting room fee is $15.
Bella Grace Vineyards: Winery, Olive Oil, Vinegar, and More
Walking along the old stone and wood sidewalks in Sutter Creek is a treat. You get a feel for the way this town must have looked in the late 19th century. Old wooden buildings still stand. Today they are clothing stores, gift shops, and a variety of other businesses that cater to the thriving tourist trade. Some of the original Victorian houses, built by wealthy merchants during the Gold Rush era, still stand. Their spacious grounds are lushly planted with trees and flowers.
One of these Victorians is the home of Bella Grace Vineyards. It was initially built in the 1860s by a ship captain. A subsequent owner added to the structure in the 1920s. For over 100 years, the property was a single-family home.
The Havill family are owners of Bella Grace. They named the winery after grandmothers on both sides of the family. The Havills leased the property in 2011, and opened a tasting room that’s open seven days a week. The family also has a wine cave at their vineyard property in Plymouth. Tastings are held there on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. They have 20 acres under vine.
Founders Michael and Charlie Havill receive expert support from their three sons. Jess is the General Manager, Robert the Cellar Master, and Michael the Wine Club Manager.
Bella Grace produces wines and sells olive oils and vinegars. I had the opportunity to taste most of them at a tasting led by Jess Havill.
Many Varieties in Small Batches
Many white wines are offered, including Albariño, Grenache Blanc, Picpoul, Viognier, and Vermentino. The Rhône variety Viognier is aged in concrete egg fermentation tanks. The wines are lovely and range from $27 to $36.
Reds include Barbera, Petit Sirah, old-vine Zinfandel, Primitivo, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. All reds are aged in French oak barrels of varying sizes.
Bella Grace’s philosophy is to “let the grapes speak for themselves.” Therefore, there is minimal intervention in the field and the cellar. They also have a commitment to sustainable practices and farm organically. This commitment includes promoting social equality among workers by providing fair wages and ensuring safe working conditions.
The winery specializes in small-batch wines, producing approximately 9,000 cases annually.
Tastings of Bella Grace California-grown olive oils, infused olive oils, and imported balsamic vinegars are also offered. In the well-stocked gift shop, you can purchase single jars of oil and vinegar as well as gift combo packs. A variety of additional products, including seasoned salts, olive-wood products, and shirts and hats, are also sold. My choice was the Tuscan Sea Salt Blend.
Wine tastings are $15.
Andis Wines
Janis Akuna and husband Andy Friedlander joined their passion for wine and their names to create Andis Wines. They built their state-of-the-art winemaking facility, tasting room, and restaurant structure in 2009. They also began replanting portions of the surrounding 25-acre vineyard, which suffered from Phylloxera. This tiny insect nearly wiped out wine grapes worldwide in the late 1800s and continues to threaten vines today.
Fortunately, Andis was able to salvage three acres of the old-vine Zinfandel, which produces excellent fruit, but in small quantities. The winery also purchases quality fruit from surrounding vineyards.
Estate winemaker Mark Fowler and event manager Shannon Landis Corbell hosted my tasting, which comprised six Andis wines.
The goal of Andis is to craft wines with lower alcohol levels, balanced acidity, and minimal intervention. Andis Sauvignon Blanc, at just 12.7 percent alcohol, offers notes of melon, grass, and tropical fruit, complemented by searing acidity.
Unusual Whites for California
The Semillon, a rarity in California, is made in the Hunter Valley (Australia) style. It’s dry and age-worthy, with notes of citrus leaf and pith, and a slightly oily texture. At just 12.6 percent alcohol, this is a wine to drink with oysters, which I did. This lip-smacking pairing matched perfectly with plain raw oysters as well as baked Oysters Rockefeller.
The other white variety is from a Portuguese grape called Arinto. This grape usually appears in that country’s Vinho Verde blends. The grape is known to retain its acidity even in high-heat conditions (like the Italian red Barbera). Fowler says he doesn’t make this single-variety wine every year. He often just uses it to add acid and structure to white blends. On its own, this Arinto is clean, crisp, and succulent, and it also pairs well with oysters.
Andis Barbara D’Amador uses estate fruit. This “Italian Table Wine” features soft, pleasant tannins, a subtle oak treatment, and bright fruit characteristics. It pairs beautifully with a wide range of foods.
The Cabernet Franc, at just 13.8 percent alcohol, is sourced from four different vineyards. It offers structure, minerality, and a “green” (but pleasant) quality typical of this variety. Rounding out the tasting was the Friedlander Old Vine Zinfandel. Winemaker Fowler says this wine “made itself” from the oldest vines on the property.
Terre Rouge/Easton Artisan Wines
My tasting sheet at this winery said, “Where the Rhône Valley Meets the Sierra Nevada.” So, I was looking forward to wines from some of my favorite grapes at his Terre Rouge/Easton Wines, and I was not disappointed.
Owner Bill Easton was a founding member of the Rhône Rangers. This group of vintners helped Rhône varieties establish a presence in California’s wine regions. In Easton’s case, this was in the Sierra Foothills.
Easton always aspired to an outdoorsy life, but he began his career in the 1970s at a wine retail store in Berkeley. He specialized in small-lot artisan wines, making him an early proponent of the artisan wine movement. During the 1980s to the early 1990s, Easton became the first serious retailer of Oregon Pinot Noir. This is the period when the Willamette Valley was still in its infancy as a wine region.
Easton was not content with retail and eager to act on his winemaking passion. He began making wine at a custom crush facility in the late 1980s. Eventually he sold his retail store and leased property in Amador County in 1994.
100-Year-Old Vines
Zin was, and still is, one of Easton’s passions. Today he produces five different versions from 100-year-old vines, all under his Easton label. Additional varieties under the label include typical California varieties, such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon. European varieties include Barbera and Gamay.
His other label, Terre Rouge, is composed of Rhône varieties, including Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Vermentino, Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Syrah. Easton also produces multiple versions of Syrah. There are currently seven Syrahs from various Amador vineyards among his current releases.
The Sierras are approximately 55 to 60 miles east of Easton/Terra Rouge. The vineyards’ proximity to the Sacramento Delta and Lake Tahoe means that they receive cooling breezes every day. These geographic features also mean that the diurnal shift, or the temperature swing from day to night, can be as much as 30 to 40 degrees. This shift in temperature is ideal for the development of flavor and acid in grapes. It allows them to ripen during the day and cool down at night, thereby retaining their acidity.
Easton also has an abiding respect for the land. The name Terre Rouge, or Red Earth, is a homage to the concept of “terroir.” Terroir encompasses the composition of the soil, sun exposure, the angle of the sun, climate, altitude, rainfall, and other factors.
If you have a tasting at the facility and Bill Easton is around, you are in for a treat. He is one of the most knowledgeable and personable ambassadors for the Amador County wine region.
At the tasting room, a $20 tasting fee applies.
Taste Restaurant and Sobon Wine Company
On my first night in Amador I enjoyed a sumptuous five-course dinner at one of Zagat’s Top Restaurants in America. Tracey and Mark Berkner opened Taste Restaurant and Wine Bar in Plymouth, Calif., in 2006. It’s the first restaurant in the Sacramento region invited to cook at the prestigious James Beard House in over 25 years. It’s also where local wine industry workers often gather at the end of the workday.
©Beth-Ellen Fried Clausen
Paul Sobon of Sobon Wine Company paired his wines with this elaborate dinner. Chef Micah Malcolm and Sobon provided background information on each dish and its corresponding wine pairing.
Chef Micah, who has been the top chef at Taste for 15 years, encourages all staff members to create dishes. The restaurant’s ever-changing menu reflects this. However, the one dish that has remained on the menu from its beginning is the Mushroom Cigar. This melt-in-your-mouth delicacy is a tube of cremini, oyster, and shiitake mushrooms. They are blended with goat cheese and shallots and wrapped in flaky phyllo dough.
Small and large tastes followed, including duck confit with chickpea cake, yogurt, and mint chutney. The dessert, featuring two flavors of crème brûlée, was creamy and divine, one of them with a Meyer lemon tang.
Sobon Wine Company, a Family-Run Business
Sobon is one of the largest wineries in Amador for production. It has 72 acres in the Shenandoah AVA, across from the famous Rombauer. Paul’s father started this family business in his garage in 1972. It became a 40,000-case producer by 1988. Initially, the family purchased grapes and then started planting their own in 1978.
The Sobons purchased the D’Agostini winery in 1989. This property is possibly one of the oldest continuously operating wineries in the state, dating back to the mid-1850s.
The winery has grown with the times, and Paul serves as its general manager. Four of his five siblings, his daughter, and a nephew are all in the family wine business.
The stand-out wine at dinner, paired with the main dishes, was the Rock Top Zinfandel. This is 90 percent Zinfandel, with 5 percent each of Carignane and Petit Sirah. Sobon’s bestseller is their Sauvignon Blanc, a quaffable white with just 12 percent alcohol. You can find it at many retail stores for between $12 and $16.
If You Go to Amador
Amador County is one of the lesser-known wine regions in the U.S. However, it offers some of the best-value wines with a unique Sierra Foothills flavor profile. Many wine enthusiasts consider Amador wines to be of a European style. Like neighboring El Dorado, Amador has lush and green rolling hills with gorgeous vineyards. Its got approachable and friendly tasting rooms in the town of Sutter Creek, Plymouth and at the vineyards. There are numerous restaurants and hotels.
Sutter Creek is an ideal place to stay to explore the wineries of Amador. It’s just 57 miles from Sacramento International Airport.
For more information on wineries, inns, and restaurants in the Amador Wine Country, visit AmadorWIne.
For more information, visit the Sutter Creek website.
Terry Nozick is a Los Angeles-based food, wine, and travel writer whose blog is Truth ‘n Wine.
