A Fusion of Cultures and Cuisines Woven Together in Tacoma

Woven Seafood and Chophouse weaves the rich flavors of Pacific Island cuisine with fresh Northwest ingredients and Native American staples.

Situated against the backdrop of ancestral lands along Tacoma, Washington’s scenic Ruston Way waterfront, the Puyallup Tribe and renowned Chef Roy Yamaguchi have collaborated to create a fusion of culinary traditions that honor the region’s local heritage.

This was my second visit to this restaurant. I gripped the colorfully carved faces on the handles of the heavy wood and glass doors to step inside. The delightful aromas quickly reminded me of how much I enjoyed it the first time. The scent of food first wafts from the central wood-fired grill and then from the bustling kitchen, building the excitement of what lay ahead.

Besides the enticing smells, I especially love being greeted by expansive water-facing windows and an impressive art collection from Northwest Coast Native, Native Hawaiian, and Coast Salish cultures. 

A Vision Comes To Life

In 2021, Puyallup Tribal Enterprises acquired the property where C.I. Shenanigans Seafood Restaurant once stood.

Korsmo Construction was tasked with building a structure that would accommodate both Woven and the Puyallup Tribal Air Terminal. The terminal was completed first, offering convenient seaplane flights from Tacoma to the San Juan Islands and stunning scenic tours of the South Puget Sound area—an experience I have also enjoyed.

With James Beard Award-winning Chef Roy Yamaguchi and Columbia Hospitality, Puyallup Tribal Enterprises simultaneously began developing the Woven concept. The aim was to strengthen their connection to tribal lands and blend time-honored flavors with innovative culinary craftsmanship. Woven opened its doors in July 2024.

A Star Chef Brings In His Protégé 

Chef Yamaguchi, who owns, developed, and has founded over 10 restaurants throughout the Hawaiian Islands and West Coast, is known for his creative blend of cuisines. His talents range from Japanese to French, Hawaiian, and contemporary Pacific Rim flavors.

To further this vision at Woven, he brought in executive chef and protégé Dexter Mina. Mina infuses his own culinary creations with many of the classics from Yamaguchi’s opening Woven menu.

Originally from Hawaii, where he attended culinary school, the second-generation Filipino chef has honed his craft between Hawaii and Seattle, drawing inspiration from both regions. Under the mentorship of Yamaguchi, he refined his skills in roles such as executive sous chef at Roy’s Hawaii Kai and Roy’s Waikiki.

Now based in Tacoma, Mina continues to evolve as he adds his Pacific Island twist to the bounty of the Pacific Northwest while incorporating traditional indigenous ingredients like beans, corn, squash, and more.

Fusing Flavors

The crab artichoke dip, which blends artichoke hearts, Monterey cheese, panko, and scallions, comes with Fry bread for dipping and is a welcome addition to the Woven “Beginnings” menu.

“Fry bread often varies from one tribal culture to another,” says Mina. Drawing inspiration from members of the Puyallup Tribe on ingredients like flour and leavening agents for making fry bread, Mina has created his own distinctive recipe. The dish has since become a beloved menu staple—it’s fluffy and soft on the inside, crunchy on the outside, and truly delicious.

A standout creation sent out by Chef Mina, showcasing indigenous ingredients, was the Hamachi Crudo. This vibrant and visually striking dish delighted both the eyes and the palate.

The delicate sashimi, paired with sweet Satsuma mandarin orange during this season, gave a nod to Native ingredients—with the addition of crunchy pepitas (pumpkin seeds) for a satisfying texture contrast. Topped with a mild chili crunch and a refreshing orange-ginger citronette, the dish offers a subtle punch of spice and flavor. Citrus also symbolizes good luck in honor of the upcoming Chinese New Year.

“Things like pumpkin seeds, gourds, and root vegetables were used by Native Americans to sustain life. So again, we’re mixing native ingredients with Asian influences, and seasonal ingredients that are available here in the Pacific Northwest,” Mina explains. 

An Evolving Menu At Woven

While combining cuisines can be challenging, Mina’s focus on seasonal Pacific Northwest ingredients is the anchor to his integration of flavors.

“Whatever is available from our farmers, vendors, or purveyors–we want to do it,” he says. “If it’s a good cost, and something that I like to eat, I’ll take it. One or two weeks later, after I do some recipe testing and menu development—I may add it to the menu.”

On my return visit to Woven, having experienced the summer menu shortly after the grand opening, I was once again impressed by the exceptional service. This time, I was excited to explore the winter offerings, particularly the newer “Sound Selections” section, where guests curate their own culinary experience.

My only disappointment would be a relative lack of indigenous foods and ingredients on the menu, but Chef Mina is focused on changing this. “Introducing and fusing more indigenous foods to the menu is something that’s always at the forefront of my mind,” he says. I look forward to seeing how his menu continues to evolve. 

A Feast Of Flavors

The option to choose between seafood and various cuts of beef, lamb, and chops for a main course from the Sound Selections menu was a welcome addition. Each comes with a choice of sauce and a side.

After a bowlful of garlic-herbed Brussels sprouts gently doused in lemongrass balsamic reduction, brown butter, citrus herb gremolata, and tomato, four of the most beautifully plated scallops appeared next to tenderly prepared asparagus upon a pool of butter sauce. Lightly seared, soft, and somewhat sweet, the scallops seemed to melt in my mouth.  

My guest chose a 16-ounce ribeye with peppercorn demi-glace, accompanied by parmesan risotto. Steak cooked to tender perfection, alongside risotto, with just the right balance of sharp, nutty flavor from the parmesan. Everything created a beautiful blend of textures and tastes.

The customizable options will remain a fixture for the time being before a refresh in the coming months as Chef Mina incorporates more indigenous ingredients as they are available.  

A Look At The Space

The space itself, as extraordinary as the cuisine, showcases artwork from a diverse and impressive roster of artists. Some of the featured talents include contemporary Native Hawaiian sculptor Mark Chai, Rande Cook of the Kwakwaka’wakw tribes of N’amgis, Ma’amtagila, and Maumalilikala, Northwest Coast native artist Barry Herem, Tulalip Tribal artist Ty Juvinel, and Daniel Joseph Friday of the Lummi Nation.

Through mediums like glass, wood, plastic, steel, aluminum, and fabric, the artists create colorful expressions of diverse cultures coming together in this one place.    

It’s a visual experience that flows seamlessly throughout the venue. It extends from the dining areas to the bar and even onto the stunning outdoor patio. The massive patio hosts umbrella-shaded tables in the spring and summer and some of the best views of pristine Commencement Bay around. 

A Seat At The Bar

Let’s talk about the bar for a moment. It’s a special space that deserves its own spotlight. There is a lengthy list of regional wines, drafts, tasty libations, and non-alcohol options. Woven also has a daily happy hour.

I love a good mocktail and chose a Ruston Bonfire from Woven’s “zero degree libations” options. The pineapple, jalapeno agave, lime, and grapefruit was a refreshing intermingling of islandy flavors with a slight pop of heat.   

Similarly, the warm glow of woven shaded pendants above complements the bar’s modern vibe. Eye-catching art adorns walls in spaces where windows don’t offer a view.  

There’s something about a meal with a view of the water that fills my soul. But when you add in the chance to see vibrant cross-cultural art and cuisine, it feels like something far more than just a dinner–it becomes a true culinary adventure. It’s definitely an adventure worth taking, and one that I am a willing party to every time.

Woven Seafood and Chophouse is located at 3017 Ruston Way, Tacoma, Washington.

Read more travel writing by Emily Molina. 

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