As I sat down for my farm-to-table lunch at Cafe de la Cima, I reached out for my glasses, only to realize I left them on the mountain we just hiked. I could write a book about where I’ve left my glasses when traveling. Hotel in NYC? Check. Bubble tea shop in Philadelphia? Check. Boat in France? Yup. And now Medellin, Colombia.
I had just returned from a visit to a coffee farm 36 miles from Medellin, in the municipality of Fredonia, La Toscana, home to Cafe de la Cima. The journey to Cafe de la Cima was an adventure in itself. After a two-hour bus ride through the countryside, we transferred to an old jeep for the final stretch up the mountain. If you love the wind in your hair, ignoring seatbelts and a touch of risk, this is the best way to travel. The road was narrow and twisty – I gripped my seat and laughed nervously with the others.
Yet, if you truly want to savor Colombia’s rich coffee culture, I recommend this full-day trip from Medellín. Cafe de la Cima produces high-quality, Rainforest Alliance-certified beans, and we learned everything from growing to harvesting and roasting. We tasted a cup of “tinto” (black coffee) and enjoyed a delicious lunch inside the farm’s main house.
A Cup of Colombian Pride
Coffee fills the slopes of Medellín’s hills. The Jesuits brought the plant to Colombia from Venezuela in the 18th century, and it became a cornerstone of the Antioquia department’s economy in the 20th century.
Today, 281,700 acres of Antioquia are covered with coffee, spread across over 95,000 farms, and tended to by over 76,000 coffee growers, according to La Federación Nacional de Cafeteros.
Colombia is one of the few countries that grows only Arabica coffee beans, known for their sweeter, lighter taste and higher quality than, say, Robusta beans. These beans also have half the caffeine and stronger acidic notes compared to Robusta. They have a smoother, more nuanced flavor than other coffee types, with fruit, chocolate, nut, and caramel notes. Colombian coffee flavors can vary greatly depending on soil conditions and altitude. Even coffee from neighboring family farms can taste different.
Cafe de la Cima
When we finally arrived at Cafe de la Cima, we were greeted warmly by its founders, Octavio Acevedo and Rubiela Pareja. They are a couple whose lives have been intricately woven with the art of coffee farming for over fifty years. With weathered hands and warm smiles, they embody dedication and resilience. Their passion isn’t just a profession but a family affair—one where their children grew up learning the rhythm of the harvest, the secrets of the soil, and the pride of cultivating excellence.
With his calm demeanor and sharp eye for detail, Octavio ensures each bean reflects the land’s purity. Rubiela, energetic and vibrant, infuses their work with warmth and hospitality.
Octavio guided us through their self-sustaining, eco-friendly farm. The plantation, tucked into a mountainous landscape, presented steep but manageable walking paths that showcased breathtaking views. Spanning three hectares, the family cultivates around 13,000 coffee plants alongside a variety of vegetables for self-sufficiency, including plantains, yucca, and chili peppers. The farm is alive with chickens, cows, and other animals, creating a balanced ecosystem that reflects their commitment to sustainability and resourcefulness.
How the Coffee Grows
We learned how the farmer grows coffee: they plant seeds in a separate patch of soil and wait until the plants are well developed before moving the best ones to the main plantation. One of the best parts of the tour was planting a few coffee plants ourselves. Feeling the rich, fertile soil in my hands was incredibly grounding and satisfying.
Afterward, we hiked through rows of coffee plants, picking ripe red coffee fruits and collecting them in a basket. The views from the mountain were awe-inspiring.
Up on the hill, we were shown the “cafeducto,” a system of tubes that uses water to transport the coffee fruits down the mountain to the house. The ripe beans are washed down to a machine that peels the meat from the fruit, leaving only the white-to-beige coffee beans. The beans then enter a washing tank, which separates the high-quality beans from the lighter, lower-quality beans. Finally, the beans are laid out to dry in a special shack.
Beans in the Sun
Don Octavio demonstrated how to open the giant drawers and the shack’s roof to expose the beans to the sun. It’s important to note that this process is solely done by hand. The picking, the planting, the roasting: Everything, from cultivation to cup. It made me appreciate the effort and dedication that go into producing a single cup of coffee.
The views from the farm were of rolling hills, lush greenery, and distant peaks, creating a stunning panorama. The fresh mountain air and the rich aroma of coffee made the whole experience even more surreal, in a good way.
After all the morning’s activities, we had a traditional peasant lunch. It started with a vegetable soup that was the best I’ve ever tasted: big chunks of vegetables swimming in a tangy, hearty broth. I enjoyed every drop of the rich and comforting dish. We also had orange juice and lemonade, made from fruits from the garden.
The Joys and Benefits of Agrotourism
By visiting places like Cafe de la Cima and learning from the people who are not only cultivating but are involved every step of the way in the coffee process, we contribute directly to the livelihoods of coffee farmers like Octavio and Rubiela. By learning about their traditions and challenges, we gain a deeper understanding of their way of life.
Agrotourism boosts rural economies, preserves local culture, and promotes sustainable farming by educating visitors and supporting eco-friendly practices. It strengthens food security, empowers communities, and fosters pride in heritage while connecting farmers directly with consumers. Proper management ensures lasting benefits for both locals and the environment.
Agrotourism also helps preserve cultural heritage. Places like La Toscana and Cafe de la Cima are more than just destinations; they are repositories of knowledge and history. By visiting and engaging with farms like Cafe de la Cima, we are helping these locals share their passion and culture and earn a living wage.
Oh, and the people who work in agrotourism can be quite kind and helpful. I’m happy to report that one of the Cafe de la Cima staff found my glasses, which I’d left halfway through my hike. Yet another act of connection between cultures, and one that, in this case, helped me find my way home.
If You Go
- OutInColombia offers a seamless and enriching travel experience. Their commitment to promoting unique cultural experiences and supporting the LGBTQ+ community makes them a standout in the travel industry.
- Cafe de la Cima is an experience you do not want to miss. It will give you a deeper appreciation for the art of coffee.
- Dive into Medellin’s vibrant spirit with a Transformation Tour, exploring the city’s remarkable journey of growth and innovation. As evening sets in, embrace the city’s lively energy and immerse yourself in its dynamic nightlife.
- Check out local cuisine, from five-star restaurants to delicious street food, Medellin is a culinary gem.
Medellin was once synonymous with drug cartels and associated violence. However, the situation has improved in recent years due to the government’s efforts to combat drug trafficking, dismantle major drug cartels, and increase security measures. I’d highly recommend going with an experienced local tour company. I felt very safe throughout the excursion, and OutInColumbia helped with translation along the way.
Find more information at outincolombia.com. And thanks to Tourism Colombia for hosting me.
Mary Sheridan writes about food, wine, and travel at maryinvancity.com.
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